Had great success whitening my PC Engine, CD-ROM
2 and IFU-30. I went with Arkhan's method of using just hydrogen peroxide and light instead of the various Retr0bright recipes. And I used artificial light instead of natural sunlight because I wanted a more controlled environment. First I made trips to my neighborhood pet supply, beauty supply and dollar stores and came home with a canopy light fixture (normally used atop reptile terrariums), UVB bulbs, many bottles of hydrogen peroxide, and various plastic food and storage containers. Here's a rundown.
MATERIALS:- Exo Terra Compact Top Terrarium Canopy, 17.7 x 3.5 x 7.8-inch, Max 26W spiral, Max 25W tube, PT-2226 (http://www.exo-terra.com/en/products/compact_top.php)
- 2x Exo Terra Repti Glo Tropical Terrarium Lamp, 5.0 UVB Compact, 26W, PT-2187 (http://www.exo-terra.com/en/products/compact_fluorescent_bulbs.php) (Power should be in the 300-350nm wavelength)
- Salon Care 40 Volume Clear Developer 32 oz. (http://www.sallybeauty.com/40-Volume-Developer/SLNCAR67,default,pd.html?cm_vc=SEARCH) (Hydrogen Peroxide)
- Plastic food or storage containers
- Rubber or latex gloves (hydrogen peroxide burns skin so these are a must)
Mmm, minty boxes :P
/pce20120729304setup.jpg
BEFOREThe RAU-30, which is in its original super-bright white condition, is used as a point of comparison. I recorded the Serial Numbers and removed the stickers with Goo Gone. Then I disassembled and cleaned the consoles with dish washing liquid and an old electric toothbrush.
/pce20120729234before.jpg
/pce20120729255before.jpg
SETUPUVB bulbs installed in the light fixture.
/pce20120729262setup.jpg
All of the plastic pieces float so I weighed them down with small rolls of pennies. The larger pieces had rolls of pennies taped to their undersides, while smaller pieces were taped to rolls of pennies. The pieces were completely submerged. The tape would come loose so I checked on the consoles periodically, dried the pieces, and re-applied tape as needed.
/pce20120729260setup.jpg
The whitening process in action.
/pce20120729257setup.jpg
These types of containers are perfect if you need to whiten the edges. NOTE: This photo was taken
after the process. Make sure you don't see a DIN connector or power switch when you
pour in the hydrogen peroxide! #-o
/pce20120729301setup.jpg
AFTERNeither the PC Engine nor the CD-ROM
2 came out as white as the RAU-30, but they look dramatically better.
/pce20120729289after.jpg
/pce20120729290after.jpg
/pce20120729291after.jpg
BEFORE :cry:
The Super System Card is quite yellowed and was not put through the process allowing you to see the change in color of the consoles quite clearly. The white tray of the IFU-30 was also whitened although it's not as easy to tell in these photos.
/pce20120729180before.jpg
AFTER - Much better :dance:
/pce20120729294after.jpg
huge improvement! Nice job!
Damn that is a BIG improvement!!!!
looks fantastic, you can do mine next ;)
Wow that is great I wonder how long it will stay like that.
Man, looks great!! Should have sent a bright white system card to match it, maybe I could swap it out for you?
Quote from: CPTRAVE on 07/29/2012, 07:36 PMWow that is great I wonder how long it will stay like that.
I did one of my whities too several years ago, and it still is white as it just came out the box :)
altough I didn't use any of those UV equip. but some bleach stuff usually for cleaning the bath etc. it worked perfectly.
Impressive! =D> What about controllers though? Would you leave the little overlay sticker thing on? Or is it fairly easy to remove/reattach?
Haha. Super System Card is still yellow...
I'm still looking for a yellow one. I'm willing to pay up to and including 500 yen for a loose one.
Right now I have a Core Grafx 1 hooked up to my yellow CD unit, which doesn't match since it's black and doesn't yellow at all.
Hooray for old yellowed systems!
Quote from: Samurai Ghost on 07/29/2012, 07:40 PMMan, looks great!! Should have sent a bright white system card to match it, maybe I could swap it out for you?
That would be awesome, but not necessary. Or... perhaps the next time I purchase some turbob from you (and I'm sure I will), we can swing a deal 8)
Quote from: kazekirifx on 07/29/2012, 08:51 PMHaha. Super System Card is still yellow...
I was thinking of sealing that sliver of space between the bump-out and the Hucard with something like super glue. I may still try it, but I'm in no rush.
Wow, that's fantastic! Especially the CD-ROM, since the old bleaching method doesn't work on those.
Quote from: Deletion on 07/29/2012, 09:56 PMQuote from: Samurai Ghost on 07/29/2012, 07:40 PMMan, looks great!! Should have sent a bright white system card to match it, maybe I could swap it out for you?
That would be awesome, but not necessary. Or... perhaps the next time I purchase some turbob from you (and I'm sure I will), we can swing a deal 8)
Yeah I have a bright white System 3.0 card that should work fine. Should only cost a dollar or so to mail it so let me know if you want to swap it out so you have an even better looking system!!
Quote from: Samurai Ghost on 07/29/2012, 10:40 PMYeah I have a bright white System 3.0 card that should work fine. Should only cost a dollar or so to mail it so let me know if you want to swap it out so you have an even better looking system!!
Samurai Ghost, you are awesome. I cannot decline your generous offer and will send you an email.
Fantastic write-up & result!
Thanks for sharing. :)
Awesome result!! Thanks to Arkhan for simple rescipe!
Quote from: Kaijuboy on 07/29/2012, 08:42 PMImpressive! =D> What about controllers though? Would you leave the little overlay sticker thing on? Or is it fairly easy to remove/reattach?
Hey Kaijiboy, I did this myself not to long ago. I left the overlay on the controllers and it turns out just fine.
Good to know, turbokon. I would lean towards leaving the overlay on as well as the hydrogen peroxide did not appear to affect strong adhesives. The two small felt pads that the CD-ROM lid rests on when in the closed position stood up fine and remained in place.
Please get back with us in a year to let us know how it looks then. Mine re-yellowed quite a bit.
Quote from: Deletion on 07/30/2012, 12:29 AMGood to know, turbokon. I would lean towards leaving the overlay on as well as the hydrogen peroxide did not appear to affect strong adhesives. The two small felt pads that the CD-ROM lid rests on when in the closed position stood up fine and remained in place.
It's good to know the process worked on the CDROM2 unit as well. I had heard the plastics are different and it doesn't work the same way, but yours seemed to have gotten quite a bit whiter.
Wow that's excellent this thread should be in the repair section. You're all going to call me crazy but I think the white pce and cd drive look better when they're yellowed.
Great job dude.
I don't know, about doing that to my PCE unit. The PCE logo looks faded, along with the CD-rom logo which is swiped off a bit. It is not yellow but it is not white either. If I did that, I think the print on the system would fade away, as well.
I am just looking at the pictures, in comparison. That looks godlike compared to my PCE unit. I am just glad I can still play cds after leaving the cd running for more then three days straight. I will show you a picture after I get my MSR in the mail.
Looks dang nice. I hope it lasts years and years before re-yellowing, if at all. 8)
Quote from: SignOfZeta on 07/30/2012, 12:44 AMPlease get back with us in a year to let us know how it looks then. Mine re-yellowed quite a bit.
Stop eating yogurt whilst playing Buster Bros. and you'll be fine. :pcds:
Is there a Jet Black PC Engine?
Quote from: KnightWarrior on 07/31/2012, 02:21 AMIs there a Jet Black PC Engine?
There's the LaserActive with NEC PAC and the Sharp X1 Twin computer (photos (http://cgi.ebay.com/itm/150861654327)) that has a PC Engine built into it. And perhaps the Vistar (http://nfggames.com/games/vistar/) but it might be a very dark gray.
Toldddddd you so :D
Did you find it way easier to deal with than making the Retrobrite paste recipe?
Nice job using that plastic container too. I almost always use fishtanks and leave them out in the driveway.
so the retrobright recipe doesn't work with the CD-Rom?
Also what was the salon stuff all about?
Quote from: guest on 07/31/2012, 11:11 AMDid you find it way easier to deal with than making the Retrobrite paste recipe?
I didn't try making Retr0Bright since your suggestion was so much easier. Buy hydrogen peroxide. Pour. Wait :D
One question for you: How long is the hydrogen peroxide good for? I did notice it produced less air bubbles as time went on.
Quote from: Duo_R on 07/31/2012, 12:01 PMAlso what was the salon stuff all about?
The Salon Care 40 Volume Clear Developer is hydrogen peroxide. That's the brand that is readily available at Sally Beauty Supply, a large chain of beauty supply stores in America. From what I've read, 40 volume (or V40) equates to 12% strength.
Quick qu, how long did you leave them in there for and did you do a single or multiple applications?
thanks! Yeah I was wondering why I didn't see regular hydrogeon peroxide in the photos. That stuff is stronger I assume?
Quote from: Deletion on 07/31/2012, 12:26 PMQuote from: Duo_R on 07/31/2012, 12:01 PMAlso what was the salon stuff all about?
The Salon Care 40 Volume Clear Developer is hydrogen peroxide. That's the brand that is readily available at Sally Beauty Supply, a large chain of beauty supply stores in America. From what I've read, 40 volume (or V40) equates to 12% strength.
Quote from: Frank_fjs on 07/31/2012, 12:44 PMQuick qu, how long did you leave them in there for and did you do a single or multiple applications?
It took me two weeks to whiten everything. The first attempt was on the PCE and that lasted 4 hours. There was a marked improvement and I didn't notice any ill effects, so I left them in longer. I did it only when I was around and able to check the pieces every few hours. As I became confident that the process worked and didn't hurt the plastic, I left them in when I was at work and over night. Towards the end of the two weeks, I left the pieces in for whole days at a time.
Quote from: Duo_R on 07/31/2012, 12:46 PMthanks! Yeah I was wondering why I didn't see regular hydrogeon peroxide in the photos. That stuff is stronger I assume?
The Retr0bright recipes recommend a maximum strength of 15%. The strongest I found at Sally Beauty was 12% (40 volume) and it worked great. Lower strengths were also readily available at Sally's. Also, I used the liquid version (called Clear Developer) and not the cream or gel version (called Creme Developer).
50 volume = 15%
40 volume = 12%
30 volume = 9%
20 volume = 6%
10 volume = 3%
Thanks for the info!
Currently whitening a yellowed HuCard case but I'm relying on sunlight at the moment, of which there isn't much around in my part of the world. Has been a day so far and the case has improved but it's still yellow. I also only have 20 vol peroxide which doesn't help.
Quote from: turbokon on 07/30/2012, 12:17 AMHey Kaijuboy, I did this myself not to long ago. I left the overlay on the controllers and it turns out just fine.
Thats great news! I've got a cream colored controller that needs some love! :)
Guess its off to Sally Beauty supply tomorrow!
Quote from: Kaijuboy on 08/01/2012, 02:04 AMThats great news! I've got a cream colored controller that needs some love! :)
Please save the pornographic imagery for the chit-chat thread.
Cream-colored, indeed.
looks great!!! thanks for sharing the pics & info!!!
Sooooooooooooo clean :-)
Quote from: Frank_fjs on 07/29/2012, 11:35 PMFantastic write-up & result!
Thanks for sharing. :)
What he said.
Looks great!
I used the RetroBright method (Lorne's Variant Recipe) on my SNES about a year ago and it still looks like it did when it was new.
There's a few different recipes at: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/Retr0Bright+Gel
This is a good write up. I've always just used bleach on pce systems as well as the controllers and it works great. However, it never works for CD drives. I will have to remember this when I come across a yellow CD drive in the future.
I did a half-arsed version of this and it worked quite well, all things considered. I only used 20 vol cream peroxide and very little sunlight as it's the end of winter where I am.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/fjs/PCECaseBleaching.jpg)
Quite pleased with the result, not perfect but much, much better than before.
Whoa frank that looks awesome
Nicely done, Frank. That is a marked improvement.
Quote from: turbokon on 07/30/2012, 12:17 AM...I did this myself not to long ago. I left the overlay on the controllers and it turns out just fine.
Is that what you did to the one I got from you? I have another non-turbo and a turbo white pad, and they need to be whitened.
The ones you sold me looked pretty good. I sold a PCE unit to T2Kfreeker and did the bleach thing to that one. It looked a LOT better than before. I only left it in the bleach for an hour or two, in addition to scrubbing it with an old toothbrush in dish soap before hand.
Looks great! Two questions though!
1) Did you just pour the hydrogen peroxide in the container, there's no mixing with water or anything else?
2) What did you do with the solution when you were done? Just dump it in the back yard?
Quote from: guest on 08/21/2012, 11:04 AMLooks great! Two questions though!
1) Did you just pour the hydrogen peroxide in the container, there's no mixing with water or anything else?
Yes, I used only hydrogen peroxide. There was no water or other ingredients added. I originally planned to make Retr0bright, but decided to try just hydrogen peroxide first because it was simpler and cheaper.
Quote2) What did you do with the solution when you were done? Just dump it in the back yard?
I poured the hydrogen peroxide back into the original containers for later use. For disposal it should be safe to pour down the drain.
Quote from: Deletion on 08/21/2012, 12:23 PMQuote2) What did you do with the solution when you were done? Just dump it in the back yard?
I poured the hydrogen peroxide back into the original containers for later use. For disposal it should be safe to pour down the drain.
In some communities at some concentration it's not allowed in drain so check the label and your local ordinance. The one I've used is only 3% and is usually OK at that level.
If you have septic tank and no sewer hookup, take it somewhere else as well.
Yeah, what wilykat said. This is the first time I've worked with hydrogen peroxide and never had to dispose of it. Based on what I found online it should be disposed of properly. See if your town's Dept of Public Works (or similar facility) accepts it. My town has two days every year in which residents can drop off hazardous waste.
Or let it sit out in the open for a week or two and let it naturally decay into plain old water and oxygen.
So is the hydrogen peroxide still usable to whiten something else after it's been used once? It sounds like if it breaks down after a week (during which was probably used to whiten anyway), you could probably just dump it in your back yard.
Quote from: guest on 08/22/2012, 03:42 PMSo is the hydrogen peroxide still usable to whiten something else after it's been used once? It sounds like if it breaks down after a week (during which was probably used to whiten anyway), you could probably just dump it in your back yard.
I did a marathon bleaching session once. I used 5 bottles of peroxide and a fish tank.
I bleached 5 Commodore 64 1541 floppy drives, two C64s themselves, a 1581, and a mouse.
All with the same fishtank full of liquid, out in my driveway.
When I was done, I just dumped the peroxide all over a group of kids walking by.
Just kidding. I dumped it on the ground and blasted it with the hose and let it dry.
Quote from: guest on 08/22/2012, 03:42 PMSo is the hydrogen peroxide still usable to whiten something else after it's been used once? It sounds like if it breaks down after a week (during which was probably used to whiten anyway), you could probably just dump it in your back yard.
The peroxide will contimue to OXIDIZE (in this case bleaching) until it has become all Water and Oxygen. Although as time goes on this will be less and less effective. Becuase of this Higher level conctations of Peroxides should be disposed of in a proper method, (i.e. not straight down the drain or into a water source, and never mixed with other chemicals) let it sit for a period of time and mix it with large amounts of water if you have and concerns (hosein it down is fine as ark said).
I'm trying this out on a yellowed PC Engine I got with a boxed interface I recently bought. Tried using straight bleach first but it didn't do the job. I saw a little tutorial over at superpcenginefx about using bleach and while it helped slightly it didn't do the job. So, I cleaned it all up real good and now the plastic is sitting in a bucket of 3% hydrogen peroxide. Hoping it turns out nice and white. Have to admit I was kinda nervous about using the HP, especially after using the bleach. I cleaned everything up good but still don't want to risk making a cloud of toxic fumes and dying.
Quote from: RyuHayabusa on 03/24/2013, 04:36 PMI'm trying this out on a yellowed PC Engine I got with a boxed interface I recently bought. Tried using straight bleach first but it didn't do the job. I saw a little tutorial over at superpcenginefx about using bleach and while it helped slightly it didn't do the job. So, I cleaned it all up real good and now the plastic is sitting in a bucket of 3% hydrogen peroxide. Hoping it turns out nice and white. Have to admit I was kinda nervous about using the HP, especially after using the bleach. I cleaned everything up good but still don't want to risk making a cloud of toxic fumes and dying.
3% might not work well - you should go to a beauty store and get developer or look at a pharmacy for at least 10%-15%. While peroxide of this strength is more dangerous it is necessary to reduce the Oxygen to Hydrogen in the ABS plastic. Basically your creating conditions in which the unfavorable reaction can run. Also throw in 1/4 teaspoonful of "Oxy" laundry booster for every pint of H2O2 you use.
Also I can't say enough for not using bleach for this as hypochlorite contains CL. which is highly reactive:
"Chlorine is higher up in the Group VII (Halogen) elements than Bromine and can displace Bromine; the downside is that you are essentially peppering the surface with tiny holes, as the Bromine is bigger than the Chlorine that has replaced it. This translates into the plastic becoming brittle as the lattice is no longer completely filled. You also haven't really gained anything, since Chlorine can also pull Oxygen from the air and hold onto it, making the plastic change colour, although not as pronounced as before." - Taken from the retrobight site.
Wow, you know the stuff, swimbz :)
Bleach has always worked perfect for me. I use straight bleach with no added water. Let it sit for at least 12 hours. I generally let it sit over night in a small bucket in my bathroom. Then I wipe any marks left over off with a MR Clean Magic Eraser.
Quote from: Keith Courage on 03/25/2013, 07:22 AMBleach has always worked perfect for me. I use straight bleach with no added water. Let it sit for at least 12 hours. I generally let it sit over night in a small bucket in my bathroom. Then I wipe any marks left over off with a MR Clean Magic Eraser.
Doesn't pure bleach damage the plastic though?
Quote from: Keith Courage on 03/25/2013, 07:22 AMBleach has always worked perfect for me. I use straight bleach with no added water. Let it sit for at least 12 hours. I generally let it sit over night in a small bucket in my bathroom. Then I wipe any marks left over off with a MR Clean Magic Eraser.
Keith will get back to you as soon as he can--it turns out he bleached his computer keyboard and the keys literally disintegrated a few minutes ago as he tapped a response to your question.
By the way... Keith says, "Hi!" and "TTYS :("
I bleached another white PCE in 2012 and it looks brand new now. I didn't even soak it for very long or expose it to sunlight. I did scrub it with a tooth brush though.
Quote from: guest on 03/25/2013, 01:28 PMI bleached another white PCE in 2012 and it looks brand new now. I didn't even soak it for very long or expose it to sunlight. I did scrub it with a tooth brush though.
MEDIUM SOFT BRISTLES, naturally. :pcgs:
I've never had it damage any plastic or make it brittle as far as I can tell. Then again I've never tried breaking a case on purpose to see if it's just as strong after bleeching or not.
Interesting. I let my yellow PCE sit in bleach for over 24 hours and it barely did anything. It's a little whiter but not by much. The heavily yellowed parts were hardly phased at all. I then let it set in 3% hydrogen peroxide overnight outside and nothing. Albeit it was cloudy all day but nothing seems to have much of an effect on this thing. I was expecting an nice white PCE but no dice. :?
Quote from: RyuHayabusa on 03/25/2013, 04:08 PMInteresting. I let my yellow PCE sit in bleach for over 24 hours and it barely did anything. It's a little whiter but not by much. The heavily yellowed parts were hardly phased at all. I then let it set in 3% hydrogen peroxide overnight outside and nothing. Albeit it was cloudy all day but nothing seems to have much of an effect on this thing. I was expecting an nice white PCE but no dice. :?
Maybe some are genuinely stained while others just experience that side effect of the plastic composition?
Instead of bleach, why not just try straight chlorine mixed with water?
Quote from: guest on 03/25/2013, 04:21 PMQuote from: RyuHayabusa on 03/25/2013, 04:08 PMInteresting. I let my yellow PCE sit in bleach for over 24 hours and it barely did anything. It's a little whiter but not by much. The heavily yellowed parts were hardly phased at all. I then let it set in 3% hydrogen peroxide overnight outside and nothing. Albeit it was cloudy all day but nothing seems to have much of an effect on this thing. I was expecting an nice white PCE but no dice. :?
Maybe some are genuinely stained while others just experience that side effect of the plastic composition?
Nah, this isn't a stain. It's yellow on the entire back and right side as well as around the controller port. It looks like you'd expect from ABS yellowing. I guess I could try to get a higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide but I hate having to mess with all these potent chemicals. Makes me nervous.
Quote from: guest on 03/25/2013, 04:21 PMQuote from: RyuHayabusa on 03/25/2013, 04:08 PMInteresting. I let my yellow PCE sit in bleach for over 24 hours and it barely did anything. It's a little whiter but not by much. The heavily yellowed parts were hardly phased at all. I then let it set in 3% hydrogen peroxide overnight outside and nothing. Albeit it was cloudy all day but nothing seems to have much of an effect on this thing. I was expecting an nice white PCE but no dice. :?
Maybe some are genuinely stained while others just experience that side effect of the plastic composition?
PRO-TIP FOR SOILED CONSOLES: Instead of using weak-ass chlorine or bleach, you should use
hydrocholoric acid to take the yellow (and residue) off of your soiled consoles.
Quote from: Bernie on 03/25/2013, 04:34 PMInstead of bleach, why not just try straight chlorine mixed with water?
elemental chlorine + water = hydryochloric acid
Stop listening to esteban. :P
I understand that, but you can control the concentration of chlorine by buying pure chlorine.
Where would you buy pure chlorine?
You'd just end up with diluted hydrochloric acid, which still sounds like a bad idea to me.
You can get 99 percent chlorine in most hardware stores. Same stuff they put in wells when first dug too. The granules I buy for my pool are 99 percent pure as well. I've had chunks of it that didn't dissolve literally bleach the blue lining solid bright white in spots, happens when the kids mess with the dispenser.
Those granules (dichlor or a hypochlorate) are not pure chlorine. That's why they're granules - pure chlorine is a gas at room temperature.
Well, yeah you're right. But still more than what ya get in bleach.
Quote....pure chlorine is a gas at room temperature.
And extremely toxic. That's why I wondered where he was buying it from.
They actually make it at the plant I work at. Had two spills in the last couple years. Hangs low and moves with the wind. Nasty stuff.
Note to self: Stay away from where bernie works :)
Had a neighbor over-chlorinate their pool once, drawing out lots of firemen and cops. They thought it was a chlorine leak. Nothing I want to mess with :)
Quote from: RyuHayabusa on 03/25/2013, 04:44 PMQuote from: guest on 03/25/2013, 04:21 PMQuote from: RyuHayabusa on 03/25/2013, 04:08 PMInteresting. I let my yellow PCE sit in bleach for over 24 hours and it barely did anything. It's a little whiter but not by much. The heavily yellowed parts were hardly phased at all. I then let it set in 3% hydrogen peroxide overnight outside and nothing. Albeit it was cloudy all day but nothing seems to have much of an effect on this thing. I was expecting an nice white PCE but no dice. :?
Maybe some are genuinely stained while others just experience that side effect of the plastic composition?
Nah, this isn't a stain. It's yellow on the entire back and right side as well as around the controller port. It looks like you'd expect from ABS yellowing. I guess I could try to get a higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide but I hate having to mess with all these potent chemicals. Makes me nervous.
IF you really don't want to mess with chemicals. Looking back at the work I was doing with H2O2 3% changed ever few days with constant sunlight should whiten your PCE in about 6-8 months.
And you guys have it all wrong for the best oxidation results, literally bleaching your PCE in minutes:
Step 1: go to food store
Step 2: Buy (ferrious iron) - yeah this is available there but no I won't tell you what product see step 7
Step 3: Buy High concentration H2O2
Step 4: Pile shavings of Iron in glass container
Step 5: throw in ABS
Step 6: Add H2O2
Step 7: http://youtu.be/-V27uNpGR6c
SERIOUSLY DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME!
Quote from: turboswimbz on 03/25/2013, 08:38 PMQuote from: RyuHayabusa on 03/25/2013, 04:44 PMQuote from: guest on 03/25/2013, 04:21 PMQuote from: RyuHayabusa on 03/25/2013, 04:08 PMInteresting. I let my yellow PCE sit in bleach for over 24 hours and it barely did anything. It's a little whiter but not by much. The heavily yellowed parts were hardly phased at all. I then let it set in 3% hydrogen peroxide overnight outside and nothing. Albeit it was cloudy all day but nothing seems to have much of an effect on this thing. I was expecting an nice white PCE but no dice. :?
Maybe some are genuinely stained while others just experience that side effect of the plastic composition?
Nah, this isn't a stain. It's yellow on the entire back and right side as well as around the controller port. It looks like you'd expect from ABS yellowing. I guess I could try to get a higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide but I hate having to mess with all these potent chemicals. Makes me nervous.
IF you really don't want to mess with chemicals. Looking back at the work I was doing with H2O2 3% changed ever few days with constant sunlight should whiten your PCE in about 6-8 months.
And you guys have it all wrong for the best oxidation results, literally bleaching your PCE in minutes:
Step 1: go to food store
Step 2: Buy (ferrious iron) - yeah this is available there but no I won't tell you what product see step 7
Step 3: Buy High concentration H2O2
Step 4: Pile shavings of Iron in glass container
Step 5: throw in ABS
Step 6: Add H2O2
Step 7: http://youtu.be/-V27uNpGR6c
SERIOUSLY DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME!
STATUS: Fenton, of course, went on to establish the mighty PopRocks Candy empire...
(http://www.thegforum.ch/images/smilies/3eye.gif)
Quote from: turboswimbz on 03/25/2013, 08:38 PMQuote from: RyuHayabusa on 03/25/2013, 04:44 PMQuote from: CrackTiger on 03/25/2013, 04:21 PMQuote from: RyuHayabusa on 03/25/2013, 04:08 PMInteresting. I let my yellow PCE sit in bleach for over 24 hours and it barely did anything. It's a little whiter but not by much. The heavily yellowed parts were hardly phased at all. I then let it set in 3% hydrogen peroxide overnight outside and nothing. Albeit it was cloudy all day but nothing seems to have much of an effect on this thing. I was expecting an nice white PCE but no dice. :?
Maybe some are genuinely stained while others just experience that side effect of the plastic composition?
Nah, this isn't a stain. It's yellow on the entire back and right side as well as around the controller port. It looks like you'd expect from ABS yellowing. I guess I could try to get a higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide but I hate having to mess with all these potent chemicals. Makes me nervous.
IF you really don't want to mess with chemicals. Looking back at the work I was doing with H2O2 3% changed ever few days with constant sunlight should whiten your PCE in about 6-8 months.
And you guys have it all wrong for the best oxidation results, literally bleaching your PCE in minutes:
Step 1: go to food store
Step 2: Buy (ferrious iron) - yeah this is available there but no I won't tell you what product see step 7
Step 3: Buy High concentration H2O2
Step 4: Pile shavings of Iron in glass container
Step 5: throw in ABS
Step 6: Add H2O2
Step 7: http://youtu.be/-V27uNpGR6c
SERIOUSLY DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME!
That was pretty awesome. Could you actually speed up the whitening process by using iron in there? It would be fun to try with like an old yellowed PC mouse on camera. 5 minutes and a brand new looking mouse!
Quote from: guest on 03/28/2013, 05:38 PMThat was pretty awesome. Could you actually speed up the whitening process by using iron in there? It would be fun to try with like an old yellowed PC mouse on camera. 5 minutes and a brand new looking mouse!
Yeah in theory you could if you were especially using nano iron, however the heat it gives off warps the plastic. You can't believe the heat it gives off. I tried with a mouse and the plastic melted, So I'm not sure how much whiting it did. I'm still working on it though for poops and chuckles. For a much safer way, you can use the tried and true OXY - activating laundry powder and good ol' UV, . as the same principal that whiten the clothes, whitens the ABS, and get results in hours. - actually much cooler, scientist are using it clean up oil, dyes, and other contaminates by Oxidizing the lethal substances.
Here is a very nicely done science project showing the principal:
http://youtu.be/iKHuaCR6aF0
Also I forgot to mention, I checked this out because of Dan's thread. this reaction Hates to be Basic or highly acidic. In fact it can bring it to a point where whiting won't really occur. A little Vitamin C may decrease the whiting time in this reaction, but i'll need to find some more brown ABS and get some lab time to try again.
Ahh, that makes sense about the heat released, I didn't even think about that aspect. Once it gets a bit sunnier I plan to throw out my old SNES and get this going.
I just came across one pc engine where bleach did not work to remove the yellow. First time I have ever encountered that. Anyways, I was able to remove the one yellow stain by using some very fine sand paper. It just rubbed it right off.
Quote from: Keith Courage on 03/29/2013, 06:55 PMI just came across one pc engine where bleach did not work to remove the yellow. First time I have ever encountered that. Anyways, I was able to remove the one yellow stain by using some very fine sand paper. It just rubbed it right off.
Yes this will work - if your not overly sensitive about your stuff (same with bleach as long as you don't go crazy with it.) you just take off the browned area of the plastic as the Hydrogen to Oxygen reaction can only occur on the surface of the plastic, this is kinda like exfoliating the skin. other good candidates for exfoliating your ABS include Magic Erasers, Brillo, nail files, and "tough" sponges.
So, now that I have everything setup I'm thinking about using some hydrogen peroxide (3% and some oxyclean) to remove the yellowing on my pcengine. It's only slightly yellow on about 55% of the top (looks a little uneven) so I heard the 3% method should produce okay results. The only thing I'm worried about is the logo on the top and the serial number on the bottom. Will this fade the logo? (I'm thinking the serial number will probably be toast so I'll have to find a way to cover it or take it off beforehand.)
the stickers will come off ... somewhere is a thread where Arkhan describes how to get this back on . . . .
if you don't want to screw with taking the stickers off, use that blue painters tape to cover that area up to protect it.
Just make sure you've got it covered tightly so it doesn't come off once submerged. That would kinda blow.
Another way you can do it is to use playdough, or any of those other goofy, malleable things. I'd be careful with sticky tak or silly putty though, it might strip the text off the label.
Just tried this today on a whim with my somewhat yellowed PCE. I didn't get it quite as whitened as I would've liked (I put it outside in a glass pan for a couple of hours and didn't have quite enough developer to totally submerge everything), but I'm real pleased with the results! I'm gonna have to pick up an old fish tank and do a marathon whitening Arkhan-style.
EDIT: Here's the aftermath:
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b144/ApolloBoy/PC%20Engine%20Collection/DSCN0879_zps917e6a61.jpg)
Looks great, Apollo! I'm tempted to do this myself.
I am re-opening this thread and asking everyone who tried the bleaching methods on their experience.
Does the bleaching effect last?
Did the plastic get brittle in any way or start to peel off/break away?
Or did yellow again?
Since I am thinking of trying this on my CDROM², I am interested in long-term experience of others.
Thanks!
Quote from: wolfman on 02/10/2014, 07:54 AMI am re-opening this thread and asking everyone who tried the bleaching methods on their experience.
Does the bleaching effect last?
Did the plastic get brittle in any way or start to peel off/break away?
Or did yellow again?
Since I am thinking of trying this on my CDROM², I am interested in long-term experience of others.
Thanks!
Using sttictly bleach and not anything like retrobrite:
Yes
No
No
Quote from: guest on 02/10/2014, 12:08 PMUsing sttictly bleach and not anything like retrobrite:
Yes
No
No
Would that do it?
http://www.amazon.de/Blonde-Aufheller-Extrem-Stufe-St%C3%BCck/dp/B00175NXTW/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1392055442&sr=8-16&keywords=bleichmittel+haare (http://www.amazon.de/Blonde-Aufheller-Extrem-Stufe-St%C3%BCck/dp/B00175NXTW/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1392055442&sr=8-16&keywords=bleichmittel+haare)
It is a hair bleacher for medium dark hair.
I live in Europe, so I´d be happy about recommendations from E.U. members since we usually don´t have U.S. brands available...
Quote from: wolfman on 02/10/2014, 01:11 PMQuote from: CrackTiger on 02/10/2014, 12:08 PMUsing sttictly bleach and not anything like retrobrite:
Yes
No
No
Would that do it?
http://www.amazon.de/Blonde-Aufheller-Extrem-Stufe-St%C3%BCck/dp/B00175NXTW/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1392055442&sr=8-16&keywords=bleichmittel+haare (http://www.amazon.de/Blonde-Aufheller-Extrem-Stufe-St%C3%BCck/dp/B00175NXTW/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1392055442&sr=8-16&keywords=bleichmittel+haare)
It is a hair bleacher for medium dark hair.
I live in Europe, so I´d be happy about recommendations from E.U. members since we usually don´t have U.S. brands available...
I just use regular bleach sold for washing floors. Even just a few seconds submerged melts off all the dirt and such on everything. The last time I did it, I didn't really expose it to the sun and didn't leave it in that long and it transformed from noticeably discolored to looking brand new.
This is a guide from the first time I did it:
https://www.superpcenginegrafx.net/cleaning_a_pcengine.html (https://www.superpcenginegrafx.net/cleaning_a_pcengine.html)
The pics don't show just how white that system really looked in the end, but it was physically worn. The last one I bleached was in nice condition, so that may help it take less time, since it doesn't have to soak into scratches or anything.
Bleach works just fine for a PCE. However it does nothing for a yellow PCE CD drive. I think they are made out of a different type of plastic.
I've used regular bleach with great results. I just let it soak over night and rinse off the next day.
That looks amazing, I'm going to try that with my SNES.
Quote from: guest on 02/10/2014, 04:53 PMI just use regular bleach sold for washing floors.
Are you talking about chlorine?
Quote from: Keith Courage on 02/10/2014, 07:53 PMBleach works just fine for a PCE. However it does nothing for a yellow PCE CD drive. I think they are made out of a different type of plastic.
I've used regular bleach with great results. I just let it soak over night and rinse off the next day.
So what should I use, if I would want to clean IFU and CDROM2?
Use hydrogen peroxide as mentioned in the FIRST POST.
If you want to whiten a yellowed console, just use the developer that you mix with bleach packets to do hair.
You want 40 vol for maximum results. you can get away with 30 if it's not super yellow.
Just submerge the plastic in it and sit it in sunlight or under a UVB bulb.
Don't mix all the retarded crap to make that paste. It's wasted effort.
I think I mentioned all this in this same thread somewhere.
I used to do marathon bleaching sessions in my driveway with a fishtank + 40vol. hair developer
http://www.amazon.com/Paul-Mitchell-Volume-Clear-Developer/dp/B004WP46PY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1392160490&sr=8-2&keywords=40vol+hair+clear+developer (http://www.amazon.com/Paul-Mitchell-Volume-Clear-Developer/dp/B004WP46PY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1392160490&sr=8-2&keywords=40vol+hair+clear+developer)
Like this. Except don't buy Paul Mitchell. Go to your local beauty shop and buy their off-brand crap for 5$. It's all the same.
Wear gloves.
Quote from: Psycho Arkhan on 02/11/2014, 06:15 PMWear gloves.
You know, that's really just good advice in general. :D
Quote from: guest on 02/12/2014, 03:57 PMQuote from: guest on 02/11/2014, 06:15 PMWear gloves.
You know, that's really just good advice in general. :D
Thx for the hint, but you were too late. Unfortunately I don´t have hands anymore to put them on...
ps: writing those lines wiht my nose right now.
Just mix bleach and chlorine in a well-ventilated room.
fantastic work here in the OP! if my Duo-R ever starts to yellow out, would the process be about the same?
I tried the 40 vol method from Sally beauty supply. It works great but it takes patience. I didn't bother with saran wrap like some youtube videos show. I just re-applied the cream every 12 hours or so. Took at least 72 hours under a UV reptile lamp to turn a really yellow CD drive white again. And I mean a really really yellow drive. One that is slightly yellow may take only a day or two.
Quote from: Keith Courage on 04/11/2014, 08:45 PMI tried the 40 vol method from Sally beauty supply. It works great but it takes patience. I didn't bother with saran wrap like some youtube videos show. I just re-applied the cream every 12 hours or so. Took at least 72 hours under a UV reptile lamp to turn a really yellow CD drive white again. And I mean a really really yellow drive. One that is slightly yellow may take only a day or two.
I would love to see the results!
Quote from: Keith Courage on 04/11/2014, 08:45 PMI tried the 40 vol method from Sally beauty supply. It works great but it takes patience. I didn't bother with saran wrap like some youtube videos show. I just re-applied the cream every 12 hours or so. Took at least 72 hours under a UV reptile lamp to turn a really yellow CD drive white again. And I mean a really really yellow drive. One that is slightly yellow may take only a day or two.
Which bulb did you use? Depending which one you use, you get better results.
I use the ones for tropical lizards (5.0 UVB).
But usually I just use real sunlight outside because that crap is like, 1 hour or less.
30 mins of real sun = ~ 8 hours of pretend bulb.
wow should see if that works on the SNES loll
I tried actual sun and it was taking a long time as well. Maybe the CD drive I used was too yellow to begin with. I removed all of the CD drives internals so no you shouldn't just wipe the stuff on leaving it all put together.
The 40 vol hair product was really cheap. 2.99 on sale Hah
They also had a 50 vol at my local store but decided to try the 40 instead because the 50 was $2 more and I wasn't sure how well it was going to work so I didn't want to spend any extra money.
The cream sticks to the plastic a bit and requires some rubbing with water to remove it. Not just a simple rinse.
I didn't use cream when I did my PCE, I used the clear stuff so all you have to do is submerge it, no rubbing stuff on needed.
Quote from: ApolloBoy on 04/15/2014, 02:42 PMI didn't use cream when I did my PCE, I used the clear stuff so all you have to do is submerge it, no rubbing stuff on needed.
If you don't use cream, I suggest flan instead.
I just got done whitening my CD2 unit as well as the bottom tray of my IFU unit and am extremely pleased with the results. I followed the steps exactly as Deletion did and used all of the same materials including the reptile lamp (my apartment gets no direct sunlight). I had the console under the lamp for about 12 hours total spread out across 2 days and the IFU tray for about 5-6 hours. It really does not take long to see a drastic improvement but the longer the better.
A couple of noteworthy things that I encountered:
- I noticed zero fading of the labels on the unit itself so I wouldn't worry about the labels getting damaged in the process
- Putting the plastics too close to the UV lamp may cause too much heat and therefore cause slight warping. When whitening my IFU tray, I had the top of the tray a bit too close to the UV bulbs and it looks like it may have warped in the SLIGHTEST bit (I wouldn't even say it's noticeable).
- I had a hard time keeping the CD2 shells submerged and ended up using a ton of taped penny rolls in order to keep them submerged. I initially tried using lead fishing weights to try and keep it sunk but the peroxide seemed to deteriorate or act aggressively with the lead so I don't advise that.
I didn't end up whitening my PCE unit itself since I am content with it as is but I may put it through the whitening process again in the near future.
Overall, following the exact same steps Deletion took, I can confirm that the process works great for whitening the CD2 unit as well as the IFU tray. My pictures don't give a 100% accurate color representation of the console but it should give you an idea of the end result.
Let me know if anyone has any questions and i'd be happy to give you some answers!
Thanks again Deletion for the informative guide!
/pc3a4zx.jpg
/pc3a4zxl.jpg
Looks nice, ghudda.
Quote from: Ghudda on 05/12/2014, 12:39 PMPutting the plastics too close to the UV lamp may cause too much heat and therefore cause slight warping.
That's known 'round here as The Bernie Effect.
Heh, it's funny you bumped this as I just did something similar with a Saturn pad over the weekened. I actually just put rocks on them to prevent them from floating and it seemed to work okay. I'll have to try the penny trick.
It makes sense about the weights though, didn't someone post a link a couple pages back about doing it with ferrous iron and it's like crazy reactive?
Quote from: guest on 05/12/2014, 05:44 PMHeh, it's funny you bumped this as I just did something similar with a Saturn pad over the weekened. I actually just put rocks on them to prevent them from floating and it seemed to work okay. I'll have to try the penny trick.
It makes sense about the weights though, didn't someone post a link a couple pages back about doing it with ferrous iron and it's like crazy reactive?
I had a similar thought though my main concern with putting something on top was that it'd maybe leave an imprint since the UV light wouldn't hit the covered spot or did you tape the rocks to the bottom? And yeah, i'm certainly no chemist so I went and used the first logical thing that came to mind, fishing weights. They were bubbling heavily and after removing them, had deteriorated and were smoking. Hydrogen peroxide is pretty wild.
if you use the cream then you don't have to worry about anything floating.
Quote from: Keith Courage on 05/13/2014, 04:07 AMif you use the cream then you don't have to worry about anything floating.
I will swing by Sally supply on the way home. Did you mix OxyClean in with your cream stuff? I just did straight peroxide no oxy, but it seems like the oxy intensifies the reaction?
Bumping this back up.
I've done the whitening several times outside but the weather is a bit less regular now and I'd like to do this indoors. Any suggestions on what people used for UV lights when doing this inside?
Quote from: guest on 02/10/2015, 03:59 PMAny suggestions on what people used for UV lights when doing this inside?
Use your grow lights! :P
Quote from: guest on 02/10/2015, 03:59 PMBumping this back up.
I've done the whitening several times outside but the weather is a bit less regular now and I'd like to do this indoors. Any suggestions on what people used for UV lights when doing this inside?
I used a lamp for a half-grown red-footed tortoise. You can get affordable UV lamps and heavy duty bulbs at pet supply stores which specialize in reptiles.
Thanks for the input!
So, would a bulb like this work?
http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Repti-Glo-Fluorescent-Terrarium/dp/B00101GDIG/ (http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Repti-Glo-Fluorescent-Terrarium/dp/B00101GDIG/)
It looks like it would fit in a regular lamp socket though from what I can see. I could easily rig an existing lamp up or something with this pointing down I think.
Probably, I went with the 20inch longer style myself
Honestly even with a good bulb it takes twice as long as just using normal outside sunlight.
I just another bleaching the other day and thought I would post results
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8758/18360641966_6c53a7598e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/tYt6bw)
Super Famicom Peroxide Treatment (https://flic.kr/p/tYt6bw) by xcrement5x (https://www.flickr.com/photos/93679370@N00/), on Flickr
I recently did a peroxide treatment on an extra Super Famicom I had laying around as I continue to try and perfect the process. This one was kind of moderately yellowed in the beginning, but nothing overly atrocious.
I used a small transparent plastic storage container, plus 1 gallon water and 32oz 40vol Peroxide from Sally Beauty, then soaked each half for about 2 hours on a nice sunny Colorado day.
The final result is quite nice in my opinion, it looks practically new except for a couple scratches on it that are barely noticeable.
Did you get excited and jizz all over it in the before pic?
"Unnghh, Mode 7!!!"
PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion => Topic started by: Deletion on 07/29/2012, 06:55 PM