12/23/2024: Localization News - Team Innocent

PC-FX Localization for Team Innocent is released, a pre-Christmas gift!! In a twist, it feels like the NEC PC-FX got more attention in 2024 than any other time I can remember! Caveat: The localizers consider the "v0.9" patch a BETA as it still faces technical hurdles to eventually subtitle the FMV scenes, but they consider it very much playable.
github.com/TeamInnocent-EnglishPatchPCFX
x.com/DerekPascarella/PCFXNews
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Messages - senkun

#1
Quote from: chop5 on 05/16/2018, 11:56 PMjust change the laser before pot tuning or anything else. they are still plentiful.
I'm looking for a spare laser but not having any luck. Unless you mean plentiful as in ripping 162a/220a lasers from old discmans, but as with anything "retro" nowadays they've gotten pretty expensive. If you or anyone can point me to a reasonably priced source for them, I'd be really grateful.
#2
Console5 has most everything, and they put em up and share stuff, love those guys.

GPU schema here:
https://console5.com/wiki/File:TurboGrafx-16-Schematic-3-Hu6260_Circuit.png
#3
I love this thread! Inspiring to see patience, tenacity and knowledge at work. I would have given up seeing that board in that butchered state, but crossmanbx never said never and revived it to such a beautiful current state. I have no doubts once he's done it would be 100% again.
#4
Quote from: soop on 04/25/2018, 01:22 PMis
Just to check, what's the polarity of the topmost blue cap?  It's actually alighned vertically as opposed to horizontal
You're right, that cap should be vertically aligned.
#5
20180426-153027.jpg
https://postimg.cc/3d6LsJh8

Couldn't find the pic floating around, but here's a pic of mine that was adjusted somewhat close to what was on the original pic.
#6
Thanks Keith, I made a bad assumption that the caps should be fine just by eyeballing them. They are almost 30 years old by now and should be replaced anyways, seeing as there are known bad caps makes it even more obvious that I should do this first step before tweaking anything.

Will try to find and swap out those known 9 bad caps first as I'm itching to troubleshoot further, ordered a cap kit for future full replacement in the meantime.
#7
Since I only occasionally dabble, I could never justify a hot air station/gun though it would be really nice to have. I've seen pros grab and twist smt caps/resistors off but never found the courage (pardon the pun ;) to do that.

What works for me is a nice broad tip iron, plenty of flux, heat both ends at the same time for 2 secs and nudge, the smt part literally slides off. Won't work in tight spaces or groups, but if there's room to maneuver it's quick and neat.
#8
Quote from: guest on 04/20/2018, 09:50 AMWelcome aboard!

There's lots of smart peeps here with loads of experience fixing...
Thank you for the warm welcome and good wishes, hopefully with everyone's help we'll be able to resurrect this CD-ROM2 unit, it's in fine cosmetic condition and the fact that it homes and spins up now gives me optimism.

Quote from: soop on 04/20/2018, 06:11 AMit might be that the laser is dead, but you should at least be able to adjust vr105 a little to get it to read. Also, check the caps, because they might need replacing too.

Since I happen to have them open in browser tabs, I'll drop some links to different posts here that could help:
...
The laser diode does light up red, doesn't seem very bright but not sure how bright it should be, looking at it from an oblique angle it's comparatively dimmer than the led readout.

And thanks for the links! I thought I had found all the threads but I missed some which I'll need to digest before attempting to fiddle further. Thought that's one pot which we shouldn't touch, can I really tweak VR105/VCO without a scope?
#9
Hello everyone,

First post and a cry for troubleshooting help.

I picked up a later revision CDR-30A cd-rom2 unit, as expected it energised but lens won't home neither would it spin.

Carefully opened it up and sure enough the middle gear was yellowed and stuck, I sneezed and it just disintegrated. A week later I had a replacement gear in hand and promptly installed it. Cleaned the lens with ipa and lubed the rails with cera grease, closed it up while making sure the flex cables were inserted properly and all wiring were intact and unimpeded.

For testing I used an original PAD-105 adapter, popped in an audio cd and pressed play.

The disc promptly started spinning, and I could hear the lens was homing to spindle (was left in outer position). But that was all, the readout shows "0" and disc just continued to spin.

Took the disc out and pushed the lens assembly all the way out top left, keeping the lid open manually switched on the contact switch and pressed play.

I could see the lens move home, spindle starts spinning, diode lights up red, readout says "0". When it reached home position, the lens bobbed up and down 3 times and stopped. Spindle is also stopped. Seems it powered off.

Now with an audio cd inserted, I presume it does the same thing, readout only shows "0" except that the disc does not stop spinning at all.  Pressing "stop" I notice that while the readout blanks, the disc is still spinning and will only stop and power off when the lid is opened (contact switch off). Is this normal behavior?

Thinking maybe it just can't find the track and a simple focus adjustment fix, I opened it up again, checked the positions of the 5 pots, and they seem to correspond with what was shown in one of the guides here. I marked the original positions then proceeded to tweak VR102, then tried 104, always being careful to return to the marked positions. Nothing seems to work, so I started trying the other pots to no avail.

What else can I try to get the unit to at least pick up the audio tracks and start playing?

Thanks in advance for any tips and help.