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#1

Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: core grafx issue after rec...

Last post by Bdoi - 05/22/2026, 01:46 AM

thanks Keith , it s probably not bad caps because , I recaped one more time with electrolytic caps to change ceramics one and no more chance.
I will try to resolder hucard wires mother board side as you suggested!

#2

Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: core grafx issue after rec...

Last post by Keith Courage - 05/21/2026, 04:06 PM

There could be a bad trace to one of your capacitors.

However, depending on how much you moved around the card slot/gray connector cable, one or more of the wires for the gray cable could have disconnected/broken from the board. When this happens, usually one has to strip and resolder all the wires for the cables. It's usualy on the main board end not the Card slot part.

#3

Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: PC Engine (white) still ha...

Last post by Keith Courage - 05/21/2026, 04:02 PM

Could be a bad trace to one of the memory chips. Check traces from memory chips to the HU6270. If traces check good, then maybe a faulty 6270?

#4

Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: core grafx II issue after ...

Last post by NightWolve - 05/04/2026, 03:45 PM

Hm, I don't trust ceramic capacitors as replacements for electrolytic models, it's above our pay grade... You shouldn't have done that.

I would clean the PCB thoroughly around the capacitor area, and check for trace damage. Check for corroded vias too.

#5

Console Repair/Mod Center / core grafx issue after recap

Last post by Bdoi - 05/03/2026, 02:25 PM

Hi guys,
I received my first CoreGrafx Iast week, and it was working.
I opened it to check for capacitor leakage, and there was some, so I recapped everything with ceramic capacitors (except for the 470 µF one).
After the recap, I only got a solid pink/orange screen, nothing else
I then tried replacing the ceramic capacitors with standard electrolytic ones, but now I get no signal at all — my TV doesn't seem to recognize the console.
Since I'm not familiar with this console, does anyone have advice on where to start troubleshooting?
Thanks in advance!

#6

Off-Topic / Re: Random Pictures Thread

Last post by NightWolve - 03/30/2026, 02:23 PM

Adol from the Ys series enters the recent DLSS 5 off/on debate...

#7

Console Repair/Mod Center / PC Engine (white) still has co...

Last post by elartur77 - 03/14/2026, 03:01 AM

Hello, I got this unit that has corrupted graphics, and replace both memory chips, doublechecked all the connections with multimeter and everything seems fine but still has corrupted graphics, so maybe the problem wasn't the memory chips, so what else I should look for. Thanks.

#8

Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems

Last post by rfernov111 - 03/11/2026, 08:22 PM

I talked to a friend about the usb-c pd and he had different luck with different boards. Apparently you have to buy a bunch and get one that works properly (he bought them on ali express). For me it just worked and now I'm considering make a 3D printed box for it and then get a transistor so it only outputs when the target voltage is reached, lets see how this goes. I'm also working on a wireless controller pcb (based on a rpi-pico + nrf24l01) so I'll keep you guys updated (I dislike the 8bitdo pce controller and prefer the original)

#9

Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems

Last post by NightWolve - 03/11/2026, 06:54 PM

In the meanwhile..Have you guys ever used a usb-c converter board to power your pc engine duo? I'm thinking about trying a circuit like this https://hackaday.io/project/187112-ch224k-usb-pd-decoy to get rid of the noise I get from my cheap PSU (my original one doesn't output a safe voltage anymore). I would love to know and maybe design a new board to replace the one the duo uses since its very easy to replace

Yeah, I tried to convert my SNES to USB 5VDC, but it was pretty bad. I didn't understand about the noise in modern PSUs, so there were weird artifacts in the video... I had no luck with that idea!

Interestingly, I just fixed an internal Pioneer CD/DVD reader (made in 2000) where the laser body and pole were stuck tight together, it couldn't slide at all! Got cooked, the grease was dried up, really bad! I had to grab the end of the pole after unscrewing it and twist it with a pair of pliers using a lot of pressure! Once it got slightly free, I'd spin/twist it back'n'forth, and then applied the fresh grease after cleaning with auto brake cleaner! It works again!

The tray mechanism is garbage though, can't be saved; some plastic parts holding the springs broke, so I had to throw it away. I'm just using it for development/testing of the new TurboRip version due to be released soon that finally supports INDEX 2-99/PREGAP scanning, so accurate CUE files/ripping for 100% NEC/PCE/PCFX discs, and it'll have BIN/CUE <> ISO/WAV/CUE conversion built in!

#10

Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems

Last post by rfernov111 - 03/11/2026, 06:25 PM

Ok, the grease arrived (not the lithium one though but the manufacturer told me this one just works - Implastec IGM 200). I cleaned all the plastic cogs and applied grease on the laser rails, the plastic cog and the motor plastic thingy. It didn't change a thing
I then took the laser out and did as Steve said: hold the base with a plier and then attempted to rotate the pot. It worked. I rotated the pot all the way CW and then rotated it slightly CCW. I tried again and it worked! Ys now reads flawlessly as well as every soundtrack on Rondo of Blood. I can't thank you guys enough

for anyone seeing this thread in the future, what helped me:
- Cleaning all the leaked capacitor fluid on the board. I spent lots of cotton swabs and Isopropyl alcohol to do that. Cleaned until my cotton swabs ended up clean.
- Redid the solder on a bunch of capacitors and tried to put them in a comfortable not-forcing position (most of them were pulling the pads of the board upwards)
- Used this board PCB (https://github.com/Board-Folk/PC-Engine-Duo) to check where the traces of everything led and redid the soldering points on loose capacitor that had their pads broken (using AWG 28)
- Adjusted the pots using a oscilloscope. First using an original disk and then using CDRs (Verbatim Digital Vinyl AZO)
- Cleaned the CD cogs and rails with Isopropyl and then put a new grease there (I couldn't buy lithium grease here but I bought a "mechanism grease" [Implastec IGM 200] [https://en.implastec.com.br/product/igm-200-graxa-branca-para-mecanismo]
- Broke the glue of the laser potentiometer as Steve said (hold the base with pliers and then rotate it slowly until it breaks free). Then I rotated the potentiometer CW until the end and rotated it CCW just a little (until it started reading my disks).
- My shitty PSU wasn't giving me enough current and was generating LOTS of noise so I tested a USB-C PD decoy that generates 9V/3A and it worked flawlessly. BE CAREFUL though as those will transfer 5V initially until the handshake can adjust to the proper voltage.
- Profit!