RIP to BT Garner of MindRec.com... BT passed away early 2023 from health problems. He was one of the top PCE homebrew developers and founder of the OG Turbo List, then PCECP.com. Condolences to family and friends.
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Messages - Ace

#1
Oh.  Well then, in that case, disregard what I've said.
#2
Quote from: BlueBMW on 01/14/2011, 11:37 PMOk, after numerous tests I believe chop5 and I have narrowed this issue down to a few components.

I'll do a complete write up of the whole investigation later.  I still have a few more tests to do to try and narrow it down to one single component.  I need volunteers who have an issue exhibiting warm up symtoms!  I have a hypothesis that I need more data on to confirm.

I believe that the warm up issue originates in either the laser sled motor seizing up, or the middle gear becoming slightly damaged / deformed causing the sled gear train to lock up.  Or it could be both of these issues.  I have pretty much 100% confirmed this is NOT a motherboard issue though!

Anyone who wants to help out and has a warm up troubled unit, do me a favor... when it turns on but doesn't spin... pop it open and just touch the gear on the end of the laser sled motor to turn it just a bit (break it free perhaps)  and then try running the unit again and see if it fires right up or not.
Hmm... sounds a lot like what happens with my TurboGrafx CD.  I have to fight with it for several minutes before it decides to move the laser.  The cause: the f***ing middle gear.  That little pile of crappy plastic gets stuck on my TurboGrafx CD and only starts moving after I move the laser back and forth several times for 15 minutes or more.
#3
All the PC Engine/TurboGrafx 16 stuff I got is local, which includes:

-Two TurboGrafx 16s(loose)
-TurboBooster(loose)
-Several US and Japanese HuCards(loose and boxed)
-Emerald Dragon for the PC Engine Super CD-ROM(complete in box), a game I couldn't care less about as I HATE RPGs
-3 TurboPads(all loose)
-TurboTap with an extension cable attached to it(again, loose)
-TurboGrafx CD add-on(loose, came with the standard TurboGrafx CD System Card - horribly unreliable piece of gaming hardware)
-PC Engine SuperGrafx(complete, but loose)
-PC Engine Duo-R(complete in box, RGB-modded by someone(not the previous owner, as he was oblivious to the RGB mod, and so was I until I noticed an 8-pin DIN on the A/V out instead of the usual 5-pin DIN))

That's a lot of locally-acquired PC Engine/TurboGrafx stuff.  The only thing I'd probably order online is a PC Engine flash cartridge, especially since one of the SuperGrafx games I want(1941 Counter Attack) is about as expensive as a PC Engine flash cartridge, but if I do find a good batch of silverback discs while I have a look at some stuff to buy online, I'll be sure to buy some.  Right now, all I can use are my pale blue-based Taiyo discs.
#4
No, I don't do any kind of online ordering.  Everything I have is bought locally.
#5
Well I can't find any of those, so I just settle with whatever I find that's got high-quality dyes.
#6
What's wrong with blue Taiyos?  There are none of those silver discs anywhere in my area.  I only trust Sony, Ritek and Taiyo dyes in the discs I burn, so whatever I find, I use, with priority put to discs with Taiyo dyes as those have the highest quality dyes.
#7
I use Maxell CD-R Pros with pale blue bases, as well as Sony CD-Rs with beige bases and my PC Engine Duo-R reads them no problem.  Even my super unreliable TurboGrafx CD will read those discs and not complain.  Besides, I like to mess around with code.  Why would I modify MAME otherwise(aside from fixing accuracy problems, mainly in the sound department)?

But I am seriously considering a flash cartridge, especially for SuperGrafx games, as getting the originals(well, 1941 Counter Attack, at least) will cost as much as a single flash cartridge.  I will, however, still get original Gradius and Salamander HuCards.
#8
I already have a Wii(bought brand new in 2007) with custom channels I created for numerous PC Engine titles, but it's just not right.  Most PC Engine games released on the Wii have this video filter that makes the picture look really blurry and the sound is off like most early PC Engine emulators where the White Noise is too high-pitched.  ADPCM is also slightly more garbled and a fair bit quieter than on a PC Engine.  I'm not a big emulation fan, but I do keep my Wii with multiple PC Engine games on it(no WiiEngine) if ever I feel like playing some PC Engine games without using the original hardware or to play games I don't have on cartridge.

But I would REALLY like to AT LEAST get Salamander to work in Super HuCard, as it's my favorite game on the disc.  The 2 parts of R-Type seem to work just fine, and that's a start, so I'd like Salamander to work just as well.  No way Gradius will work, as that's a 4 megabit cartridge and the Super System Card only has 2 megabits of RAM to load the game data.
#9
Here's my PC Engine Duo-R with some extra goodies I got with it:

/rgbmoddedpcengineduor.jpg

-Owned this PC Engine Duo-R for about one week
-Bought it off a local seller who put up an ad on Kijiji
-Sure beats the crap out of the HORRIBLY unreliable TurboGrafx CD.  With this, I can play Gradius II and other Shoot-em-Ups that require the Super System Card without having to worry about a gear shattering on me
-I did not mod the system, but I found it with an 8-pin DIN instead of a 5-pin DIN on the Multi-A/V out, which can only mean it was RGB-modded.  I don't know if the amplifier is there as I never opened my PC Engine Duo-R to check, but if I were to guess, I think there would be an amplifier for the RGB
#10
Oh jeez, I can't read Japanese at all.  Got any other suggestions?

And by the way, doesn't the Super HuCard ISO need to be decompiled in order to modify all that's needed to make the games that have problems on the disc work?  Wouldn't the same be true of PC Engine ROMs?  Is there any tool that can decompile that stuff?
#11
Hey, research is what I do for figuring out console mods and how to modify emulators, so I'll get to it right away for modifying PC Engine HuCards to work with the CD-ROM drive.
#12
Heh... no worries about the 6502 ASM bit.  I've got a lot of patience when it comes to learning new programming languages.  I haven't done any hex editing whatsoever, but I'll be more than willing to learn how to use a hex editor.

I have no clue how the PC Engine's hardware works, so I'd appreciate it if someone with profound knowledge of the PC Engine's hardware would explain to me how everything works.
#13
I'm an amateur programmer who's just getting into different programming languages(Java, C++, and will soon get into ASM), and I would actually like to get somewhere with all this stuff.  What exactly would I need to fix the games that don't work right on the Super HuCard disc(this is just a start; I will try to convert other games once I get the hang of things)?  Of course, I don't exactly know how the PC Engine works, so someone would need to explain to me what exactly goes on in the entire conversion process to play PC Engine HuCards through the CD-ROM drive.

Now, there was a guest user on this forum by the name of "Bonknuts" who had posted a patch to get Salamander working in Super HuCard.  I can't download it anymore from the link he posted so I was wondering if anyone has a copy of the patch or a pre-patched ISO.  I know it's been 3 years since the patch was released, but I really want Salamander to work on Super HuCard.  If not, I'll just try to modify my Super HuCard ISO myself.
#14
This isn't everything, but it's my most recent acquisition for my PC Engine and TurboGrafx 16 collection:

/rgbmoddedpcengineduor.jpg
/rgbmoddedpcengineduor.th.jpg

I got this PC Engine Duo-R bundle today, and I can now say "good riddance" to the horribly unreliable add-on known as the TurboGrafx CD.  This, of course, is not all of my TurboGrafx 16 and PC Engine stuff.  I'll show the rest when I get new batteries for my digital camera.

And I found out by looking at the A/V port that this PC Engine Duo-R is RGB-modded.  Instead of a 5-pin DIN in the back, it has an 8-pin DIN.  I think I'm going to put together an external RGB to S-Video or Component converter box, since I have nothing that will accept RGB.
#15
Quote from: esteban on 12/27/2009, 11:29 AMBetter to play over RF than not to play at all!

I am pro-PCE, regardless of the quality of the video :)
Damn right. :D  I don't care if my PC Engine/TurboGrafx is hooked via RF, Composite, S-Video, RGB or Component(the latter 3 with a modification), as long as the system works and doesn't output a picture as nasty as a Sega Genesis Model 2(seriously, it's got the worst video output of any game console I've ever seen), I'm happy.  Although I do prefer Stereo sound, which you can't get via RF. :P :wink:  I'd settle with Mono sound if I can't get Stereo, however.
#16
Japanese NTSC consoles that work off RF require you to use channel 95 or 96 on your TV(unless you have a Japanese NTSC TV, in which case, you use channel 1 or channel 2).  If the RF modulator in the system is set to function on channel 1, switch your TV to channel 95, and if the RF modulator is set to channel 2, switch your TV to channel 96.
#17
Zeta was asking if the TurboDuo/PC Engine Duo laser jamming problem would also happen on a STANDARD TurboGrafx CD or PC Engine CD-ROM, not the Duo units.  On a Duo, you shouldn't have to worry about the gears disintegrating.  The CD-ROM drive is completely different between the TurboGrafx CD and TurboDuo, with the Duo's drive having no such problem with a gear that could disintegrate at any moment.  I'm pretty sure you can simply disassemble your current HOP-M3 and reposition the laser.  Of course, a good re-greasing would be a good idea.
#18
Quote from: rag-time4 on 12/04/2009, 10:23 PMSo which is it, a cart or a card?  ](*,)
It's a cartridge shaped like a credit card.  End of story.
#19
Hell yes!  That's the kind of stuff I'm going for.  Thanks Nat!

I just remembered something: what's so special about Altered Beast that it ABSOLUTELY REQUIRES the System 1.0 card?
#20
Huh... last I saw on eBay, there were only Arcade Card Duos, but looking at the prices now, a Super System Card and an Arcade Card Pro seem to be about the same price.  I may go for the Arcade Card Pro instead of the Super System Card.

Are there any good Shoot-em-Ups for PC Engine Arcade CD-ROM?
#21
I'm looking to buy a PC Engine flash cartridge, but I have a question.  Which of the currently available flash cartridges(Tototek, NEO) support System Cards, more specifically, the Super System Card?  I found this picture on Tototek's website showing a PC Engine Duo-R running the System 1.0 card on the Tototek flash cartridge, but I'm wondering if that flash cartridge or the NEO flash cartridge can be used as a Super System Card?  Or am I SOL and have to import a Japanese Super System Card(I have a region-modded TurboGrafx with the TurboGrafx CD, so playing Japanese HuCards is not a problem, not to mention the US Super System Card is crazy expensive)?
#22
Hey guys, sorry for the bump, but I just noticed something with my TurboGrafx CD and the issue of the notorious gear getting stuck.  It would seem as though the gear only gets jammed when the laser is right next to the spindle.  Since I repaired the ribbon cable in my TurboGrafx CD, the gear wasn't getting stuck anymore(re-applied some lubricant) unless the laser was right next to the spindle.  That's a little piece of advice for you TurboGrafx CD owners: never leave the TurboGrafx CD idle unless the laser is away from the spindle, otherwise, it'll jam.
#23
I only JUST had an opportunity to get my TurboGrafx CD back up and running and repair that ribbon cable.  Thanks a bunch Kattare! =D>  My TurboGrafx CD is back up and running! 8) :D :dance: *plays Zero Wing to celebrate*
#24
Katare hit the nail right on the head: the laser is identical between the KSS-220a and TurboGrafx CD.  Same goes for the spindle motor, which I think would be a good idea to replace since I keep hearing of TurboGrafx CD spindles dropping a millimeter when a laser swap was performed.  At least I'll have a more reliable spindle that way as well.

Now, Katare, if I were to go ahead an attempt a ribbon cable repair, how should I go about using the craft knife?  Should I scrape the outer coating of the ribbon cable by pressing the knife on the cable at an angle from where the tear is?
#25
Of course you do!  The ribbon cables are attached INSIDE the laser.  The KSS-220a's you see on eBay are the entire drive: spindle, laser, everything.

You kidding?  I'm not going to buy another TurboGrafx CD just to take out its laser(broken or not)!  Not when I can get a KSS-220a for less than a broken TurboGrafx CD(I don't know how much they usually sell for, but considering the TurboGrafx CD is a high-value item, one can expect broken TurboGrafx CDs to cost quite a bit).
#26
Yes, you did miss something.  THE RIBBON CABLE ON THE LASER IS TORN.  Now, the disc will spin for a split second, then stop.  There is only 1 lead on the ribbon cable that's broken, but it's enough to prevent the thing from working.

And the gear is still jamming.

Is there some way to fix torn ribbon cables?
#27
I think for now, if I get a KSS-220a, all I'll do is to take the laser and spindle motor and shove it into the TurboGrafx CD's CD-ROM drive, then I'll fit in the KSS-220a when the gear decides to shatter.  I know this may sound crazy, but I REALLY need to get this thing up and running.  I have a Zero Wing Marathon going on on my YouTube channel, and I really want to record a playthrough of Zero Wing for the PC Engine CD-ROM, but because the TurboGrafx CD doesn't work anymore, I can't do that.
#28
Zeta, I'm fed up of having to consistently unjam that f-ing gear every damn day just to play on my TurboGrafx CD, and now with the damn ribbon cable(the big one) torn, I can't play anything on my TurboGrafx CD unless I get a KSS-220a and pull out the laser.

And I'm not gonna spend 145 bucks on a PC Engine Duo-R.  I can get a KSS-220a and a Japanese Super System Card for less than that(one of my 2 TurboGrafxes is modded with a region switch specifically for using the Japanese Super System Card).
#29
 :evil: :evil: ](*,)

I am SO F-ING PISSED OFF RIGHT NOW!  From the damn gear jamming all the time, I ended up tearing the thick ribbon cable!  F***!!! :evil:
Just great!  I don't end up with a dead TurboGrafx CD because of the stupid gear, but because the f-ing ribbon cable tore... GOD DAMN IT!!!  Time to get a KSS-220a.  I might as well just replace the entire laser block so I don't have to deal with that f-ing gear anymore.  THAT STUPID LITTLE PIECE OF PLASTIC IS CURSED!!!
#30
I guess the paste lubricant I used got far enough in between the gear and the post; the gear hasn't jammed since I last unjammed it yesterday.  How long should I wait before declaring this issue solved?

EDIT: Well, looks like it only lasted 2 days, and a few hours after unjamming the gear, it got jammed again.  I'm gonna have to take the plunge and pull off the black clip that holds the middle gear and clean/lubricate the post.  Damn thing... I never thought a TurboGrafx CD would cause me so many problems short of a completely disintegrated gear. ](*,)  I guess that's the price I have to pay for the very first CD-ROM based gaming item.
#31
Even though I've never worked with a TurboGrafx CD before getting mine in July, for the long amount of time I was visiting PC Engine FX before making an account, I had a pretty good idea about the stupid gear and how fragile it becomes.

So, I guess my suspicion is correct: the gear IS getting stuck on the post.  Now, I'm not too fond of removing the black clip that holds the gear in place.  If I remove it, wouldn't it just be easier to glue the gear onto the post with some epoxy?  It shouldn't jam anymore that way.  And even if the gear does disintegrate later on, I'm dropping in a KSS-220a.  At least, I won't have to deal with a faulty gear for another 20 years.
#32
Not me.  I'm only using CD-Rs, and while it didn't get stuck like a TurboDuo, I did hear a grinding noise coming from the TurboGrafx CD(the gear was intact after the grind).  Did it maybe try to go further than its travel allows towards the spindle motor?

The gears are fine, just that stupid gear that's discolored.  When it jams, that gear doesn't move at all, but the other 2 can move freely in the tiny space in between each tooth on the stuck gear.  What's weird is that the gear appears to get stuck WHEN THE ADD-ON IS NOT IN USE.  While it's working, it never jams unless it jammed before.

May I remind you that when I bought my TurboGrafx CD in July, the gear was jammed in the exact same fashion, but it didn't jam consistently like it does now.

EDIT: I went to check the gears for any signs of damage, and have found none whatsoever.  I also just went to move the gear, and I noticed that it took a lot less effort to get the gear unjammed.  My guess is that the gear is somehow getting stuck on the metal rod that holds it.  Used to be that I had to move the gear back and forth to get it unjammed, but it was just enough that I rotated the gear and it unjammed with barely any effort(no teeth were damaged or broken in the process).

EDIT 2: Tested my copy of Gradius II to see if read all the tracks on the disc(contains 28 tracks) - read all 28 tracks flawlessly(even though 2 tracks are data).
#33
Sorry Esteban, but just using a HuCard instead of a CD-ROM game just doesn't cut the mustard for me.  I NEED TO HAVE A WORKING TURBOGRAFX CD!!!!  And a Super System Card + PC Engine flash cartridge.  I MUST be able to use my Gradius II disc on that thing.  If worst comes to worst, I'll drop in a KSS-220a.
#34
So then why would the gear keep getting stuck?  Is it about to disintegrate?
#35
Quote from: SignOfZeta on 09/27/2009, 04:40 PMAre you playing CDRs? Is it jamming at the end of the laser's travel?

EDIT: BTW, if you are playing CD-Rs exclusively, this is not my way of ragging on you for being a pirate or anything. I don't care at all about that shit. I'm just trying to see if CD-Rs are the common link between jammed lasers and broken gears on early CD units.
I'm exclusively using CD-Rs, and no, they are NOT the cause because the laser is not jamming at the end of the travel.  The gear is physically stuck; it won't rotate unless I move it around a bit.

None of the gears are damaged, not even the notorious discolored piece of rotten plastic.  The add-on was cleaned out as soon as I got it, then was given a coat of silicone grease, which has since dried, and I'm now using a paste-type lubricant(can't remember what it was that I used).

I will say this though: when I go unjam the gear, I notice that it doesn't seem to be holding steady on the metal rod it's put in.  I can nudge it a little bit up and down.  Is it maybe too loose on the rod?
#36
I'm starting to get incredibly annoyed by my TurboGrafx CD, and here's why: since I've gotten the add-on back in July, it has constantly caused me problems.  To start it off, I got the TurboGrafx CD with a jammed gear.  Okay, fair enough, I unjammed the thing, put some silicone grease on the gears and the laser's worm gear and it worked no problem.  Since then, the gear won't cooperate; it has jammed 5 TIMES since I got it, and what really pisses me off is that THE NEXT DAY after the gear has been unjammed, it's jammed again!  WTF?  Why the hell does that damn gear ALWAYS jam the next day after it's unjammed?!  In case you're wondering which gear it is, yes, it's the dreaded gear that disintegrates.  That gear is 100% intact in my TurboGrafx CD, but discolored to hell, and, as I said before, keeps jamming no matter how many times I unjam that thing.  Can anyone tell me why my TurboGrafx CD is acting up like that?
#37
Quote from: kattare on 09/01/2009, 08:33 PMOverride, I've looked at those before.  I didn't want to take the chance that they were manufactured at the same time and thus have the same gear issue.

I'm starting to lean toward the molding gear.  I successfully dropped an entire kss-220a apparatus into a TG-CD that I just got it from fullnelson the other day.  I had to:

- move 5 caps
- remove the line out jack
- remove the external power jack (yup, it'll never work stand-alone again... big whoop.)
- cut/dremmel/file the crap out of the chassis
- cut/dremmel/file the crap out of the kss-220a
- reverse the leads to the tracking motor

All that is cool and whatnot, but it took freakin' 6 hours...  6 hrs I'm willing to do once, but not 2 more times.  (2x jap briefcase units I need to repair)

Final product works great... unreliably reads CD-R's... probably some tweaking of the pots would get that going, but it's reliable with regular games so I'm gonna leave it be.

Maybe the second time won't take so long I guess... and the kss-220a is only $30.
I'll tell you one thing: I'm definitely gonna drop a KSS-220A into my TurboGrafx CD once its gear disintegrates.  It may look REALLY ugly, but I'd take a working TurboGrafx CD that looks like crap than a good-looking TurboGrafx CD that can only serve as a paperweight any day.  And it sure beats the crap out of paying upwards of $80 just to mold a single gear.
#38
That does leave one big problem: all the people who have no technical knowledge are going to trash their PC Engine GT/TurboExpress/TurboGrafx CD/PC Engine CD-ROM/PC Engine Duo/TurboDuo deeming them impossible to recover.  And since the problems all seem to be happening now, it's only a matter of time that many of those consoles will find themselves in a dumpster.
#39
My GOD!  That's one sick PC Engine Duo right there.  It almost seems as though the quality of NEC's hardware got worse every time something's released.  Think about it:

-TurboGrafx/PC Engine: barely any problems
-PC Engine CD-ROM/TurboGrafx CD: jammed gears/jammed laser/disintegrated gear
-TurboExpress/PC Engine GT: leaky capacitors
-TurboDuo/PC Engine Duo: leaky capacitors/sensitive to reversed polarity/stupid laser that runs off its track

Wow.  That's one awful record for reliability.
#40
See, here's the thing: the pop sound I heard from the ColecoVision when something blew in it came from one of the 8 notoriously awful RAM chips.  That's the weird part.

Now, Charlie, you've said the TurboGrafx 16 has that type of circuit protection, but what about the SuperGrafx?  I plugged in a power supply with reversed polarity into that.  It DID NOT power on.
#41
Not just for that, but also for my ColecoVision.  I know this is off topic, but a failed attempt to get it working off a standard 12V power supply resulted in something blowing up inside.  When I got the original power supply for it, it actually was still functional!  And it works perfectly to this day.  Let's just say fortune smiles upon me when I have a power problem with a console.
#42
You sure are obsessed about solar eclipses, huh?  But, seriously, wouldn't something blow inside a console the minute you plug in a power supply with reversed polarity?  And I even flipped the power switch on my SuperGrafx several times while the power supply was in.  Can't believe the thing still works.
#43
Of course I reversed the polarity beforehand, duh!  However, I did put in a power supply with reversed polarity by accident into my PC Engine SuperGrafx.  Strangely, after having reversed the polarity, it still worked no problem.  What I find even weirder is that nothing blew inside the console.  Shouldn't something blow the minute you insert a power supply with the wrong polarity?
#44
Well, wouldn't you know it, it WAS my power supply.  I pulled out that Yamaha power supply and reversed its polarity(plug was the perfect shape, but polarity was backwards), and all the video problems are gone.  Now, I'm really starting to think the grounding pin on the other power supply was at fault, causing the ground loop.
#45
Got a TurboGrafx CD that needed to have a gear unjammed.  Works flawlessly otherwise.
#46
Solar eclipse?  I highly doubt it'd have something to do with the interference.

I have the RCA cables hooked up like this: TurboGrafx CD to Pelican switchbox to TV's Composite input.  Even with a direct connection to the TV, the interference doesn't go away.  And now, I think the problem might not come from the TurboGrafx because I remembered when I region-modded it that I never resoldered the top RF shield, so there was a loud humming noise in the sound output.  Resoldering the RF shield got rid of the humming, but did nothing to fix the video problem.

As a word of note: I didn't get the official NEC power supply for the TurboGrafx CD.  Instead, I took a 12V power supply I found(DC12V, 3.33A) and hacked it up, as the polarity wasn't right for the TurboGrafx CD(power supply was center positive while the TurboGrafx CD requires center negative).  This power supply actually has a grounding pin, so I'm wondering if that grounding pin is what's causing all the problems.  If that's the case, I have another power supply made by Yamaha rated DC12V, 1A which I think should do the trick, but I think the tip won't fit.
#47
I managed to pick up a TurboGrafx CD(after 3 years of searching), and sure enough, it didn't work.  While that notorious gear was still intact(but discolored to hell), I found out it was jammed(laser wasn't moving, no click, no nothing), so I had to loosen it a little bit and lubricated that gear, the neighboring gears and the sled for the laser with some silicone grease(will lubricant make the gear last longer?).  However, I noticed a very weird video problem that I just can't seem to figure out: when I plug in the Composite cables to the back of the Interface Unit, parts of the video output get wavy and it looks like the video's going to go out of sync.  Here's the very weird part: when I plug in an RF cable in the TurboGrafx's RF box, the waves go away. :?  I've never heard of such problems with the TurboGrafx CD Interface Unit.  I've already ruled out that the RCA connector on the TurboGrafx CD is not the source of the problem.  Is it a problem within the TurboGrafx, the Interface Unit, or something else?