Sega Lord X reviews the Street Fighter II Champion Edition PC Engine port.
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Messages - ishiyakazuo

#1
I've never played the PCE version of 4 (just the SNES/SFC one), so I'm going to go with 3.  (I've never played the PCE one of that one either, but I've heard the Genesis/MD one is extremely close.)
I've played the PCE versions of 1 and 2 (on my PS3), and while I agree that 1 is much nicer technically than the others, and the plot is pretty amazing... 3 just stands out more to me for some reason.
I'm also not sure why, but the MSX2 version of Valis II was a lot of fun for me.  It's technically way inferior to the PCE one, but when I was growing up, I'd played SD Valis and compared to that, anything was a HUGE step up, so when I got my hands on the MSX2 version, I was like "whoa."
MSX version of Valis 1 kind of sucked though.
#2
Quote from: grache on 12/04/2014, 03:57 AM
Quote from: HailingTheThings on 12/04/2014, 01:05 AM
Quote from: Gentlegamer on 12/04/2014, 12:25 AMJust standard q-tip and rubbing alcohol. The pins and cart look clean to the eye.
I was under the impression that qtips and alcohol are a no-no for hucards because seepage?
I don't think seepage would be an issue. There's a lot of durable glue holding the ROM down. IMHO, it would be virtually impossible to ever cause any damage, even if you cleaned the contacts *every* time you played the game.

As far as alcohol damaging contacts, that's another issue.
Well, if the vias to the underside of the HuCard's PCB get corroded or something, that could be the "seepage" being described...
#3
Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: WTB AV Booster
12/03/2014, 09:47 AM
If you just need something to play the games with an AV output, there were some posts of people making aftermarket AV Booster clones.  For example: https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=17927.0 describes a few options out there.
... there was another one similar to this but with the Tennokoe built-in too... can't find it now.
#4
It should be noted that db is now actually selling this thing... so it has transitioned from interweb discussion into something that can be inserted into your OBEY... for MORE OBEY.
#5
Congrats, mitsuman!  Enjoy THE kung-fu.
#6
Quote from: graffias79 on 11/20/2014, 04:25 PMIf the bit endian is wrong and this is the difference between PCE and TG-16 cards, does flipping the Everdrive's region switch to the opposite position make it work?
Well... here's the thing with that.  The Everdrive has to provide a menu to load the ROM, right?  That needs to be in the correct bit ordering to play on the particular console.  Maybe it will work if there's a way to also reset the PCE (without resetting the Everdrive) and flipping the switch.
Easier thing is to use a tool to flip the bits around.  I think the Flash HuCard GUI can do it.
#7
Quote from: Ayce on 11/18/2014, 10:05 PMI saw this mod on a website today... my problem is I don't play on LCD or Plasma. I much prefer playing on a CRT the way these games were originally designed to be played on.
I've got a CRT with HDMI on it... they do exist ;)  I'm not sure Duck Hunt would work with this on it (in fact, if it doesn't output 480i/576i, I'm fairly sure it wouldn't).
#8
OK, OK, I'm in!  I'm IN!  I had China Warrior ages ago, but I am no longer in possession of such a glorious title, so I'd be interested in it.  It is THE Kung-fu, after all.
#9
Quote from: grache on 11/18/2014, 09:00 PM
Quote from: ishiyakazuo on 11/18/2014, 02:07 PMThe Cadash ROM in the GoodSet has the wrong endian.  It was obviously ripped on a PCE copier.  Need to run it through a tool that flips the bits around.
So the PCE is big endian and the TG16 little endian (or vice versa)? I'd have thought that they were the same endianess with the cartidge pins routed differently. I guess that flip of pins flips the endianess?
It's not big vs. little endianness, but "bit endianness" that I was referring to.  One goes D7-D0, the other goes D0-D7.  Order is completely flipped.  If you rip a TG16 card with a PCE copier (or vice-versa), the bits in the resulting ROM will all be flipped.  There were about half a dozen ROMs in the GoodSet that exhibited that.  Since bit endianness in ROM files is fixed (regardless of whether or not it's PCE or TG16, there is a single way that makes sense on a PC), these ROMs are bad and need to be flipped back to the correct order in order to work.
#10
The Cadash ROM in the GoodSet has the wrong endian.  It was obviously ripped on a PCE copier.  Need to run it through a tool that flips the bits around.
#11
To be honest, I'm surprised that no one's said "buy the friggin' SuperGrafx, dude!"  People's time isn't free, and I think the amount of time and effort involved in this could pay for many SuperGrafx units.  Unless someone has a vested interest in doing something like this, it isn't going to happen.
#12
Sorry, I am currently out of stock.  I'll try to keep people up to date on when I get more, but it might be quite some time.
#13
Quote from: esteban on 10/23/2014, 07:23 PMI want to believe that the Valis series still has a few fans out there.
Dude, I played the living hell out of Valis III on Genesis as a kid.  I even played SD Valis way too much to be healthy... cuz that game sucked.  But I still played it because IT WAS VALIS.  I didn't have a TG16 CD as a kid, so the Genesis versions were what I had.  Now I've got Valis and Valis II on PS3 :D

Quote from: guest on 10/27/2014, 12:40 PMSome day I'll acquire a copy of that elusive Valis X.
1) There are 5 of them in the Valis X series
2) Everyone says they suck (wouldn't know -- haven't played them)
3) They're hardly elusive... they go for like $5 each on Amazon.co.jp
#14
Quote from: pnauts on 10/28/2014, 02:45 PMI'm curious but where your Hucard socket come from ?
Thanks.
It's a hand-assembled custom-made assembly designed to fit a HuCard.  Not an off-the-shelf part.  (Not the sort of thing I'd want to do on a regular basis, but db has a lot of experience with that -- that's the main reason we collaborated on this one!)
#15
Quote from: guest on 10/28/2014, 09:43 AM
Quote from: ishiyakazuo on 10/28/2014, 09:37 AMYou need it for JJ & Jeff.  And Impossamole.  And Turrican.  And... yeah, there are a lot of pretty crappy US region games out there, aren't there?
There's a lot of really good ones too, but it's more fun to dump on Turdican.
Yeah, I can't think of very many standout USA-exclusive games for the unit though.  Specifically talking about HuCard, here, though.  (JJ & Jeff isn't exactly an exclusive to the region, but it's so edited, I figure it's pretty close to a different game.)
#16
Quote from: majors on 10/14/2014, 12:20 PM+1 for db-electronics! I just got a FM PBC mast month and love it. Looking forward to Henshin but I've been swapping all my US Chip Cards for PCE versions of late so I might not even need it since I only have Japanese obey consoles.
You need it for JJ & Jeff.  And Impossamole.  And Turrican.  And... yeah, there are a lot of pretty crappy US region games out there, aren't there?
#17
Quote from: gladders on 10/27/2014, 02:21 PMDoes this fit onto the Interface Unit?
Nope.  Uses the same expansion port.  It's an either-or, at the moment.
#18
Quote from: esadajr on 10/02/2014, 06:46 PMFor basic flash cart functionality I'd recommend the Super UFO pro 8. Games like TMNT 4, International Super Star Soccer, Offroad 2, Street Fighter, Donkey Kong, Megaman 7 etc work great. Once you replace the battery (and know your way around the sram method) you can play Super Metroid, Zelda, etc.

For games with special chips or too large (ie lots of "mega power"), I either get the cart (looking at you Yossy Island) or fire up le Wii. No flash cart is capable of playing everything anyways.
Yeah, I'm pretty happy with my Pro 8 also.  Only complaint is that it doesn't support long file names... makes naming things a real pain.  And the USB ports break off easily, but I never use that.
#19
Quote from: esteban on 04/02/2012, 02:31 AM
Quote from: Samurai Ghost on 04/01/2012, 08:55 PMMeh, that's another reason I'll never pay some middle-man to allow me to download some data I could just easily get myself for free. They can decide at any point just to pull the title and screw you. And unless there are some serious extras, what are you really paying for, really? Would you pay me $5 to let you download an ISO of Valis 2 for the DUO when you could just get it for free from another site? It's not like the creators of the game are getting any revenue from this.

If you want to do console emulation, just mod an Xbox and throw every ROM for every system up to the the Genesis/SNES along with some MAME on there and be done with it. I'll stick with physical copies thank you!
I'd pay $50 for Valis II since I deeply look forward to marrying each and every Red Book song on that beloved disc. I have to go Mormon/polygamist, but I feel it will be worth it. IMG

I'm not joking. It's OK if you don't feel the same way, since I don't want to compete with you for the object of my desire. IMG
I know this was said ages ago, but Valis II (and the first Valis) are (were?) available on the Japanese PlayStation Store under Game Archives.
Looks like they might be gone now.  Dang it, expiring licenses, etc.!  I was hoping they'd eventually put up Valis III and Valis IV.
#20
Oh heck, can I be a raffle whore too?  I've heard good things about MM, and I didn't want to get in on this until I knew I could play TG16 games.
#21
Interestingly, though this looks more like a Sega Card/MyCard, it's got 38 pins just like a HuCard.  Sega Card had 35 pins.  It's the wackiest hybrid card ever... or just some proprietary thing someone made.  Now, if they sell replacement connectors for the device that is used to read said card, I would be very interested...
#22
I played Tenchi wo Kurau 2 on the PSX... as I recall, it's pretty fun.
#23
Do you have a CD-ROM?  If not, you can just connect to the rear connector and get the RGB signals from there.
#24
Quote from: cjameslv on 10/20/2014, 01:05 PM
Quote from: guest on 10/19/2014, 08:35 PM.... Power Base Converter.....
My panties just got wet  :oops:, i gotta find one of those for my setup!
There are a number of 3rd party Power Base Converters still being produced, like Tototek, db Electronics and Raphnet.  One of the db ones can even play the FM sound from the Japanese SMS consoles on a Genesis.
#25
Just in case someone's looking here for info on converters, there is a mod that can be done to the db converters with the switch that involves removing the switch and rewiring a few things (the data lines) to make it work with the Super System card.  It's not that hard, really -- I'm pretty crappy at soldering and I got it done.
#26
Quote from: esteban on 10/22/2014, 11:28 AM"Beat-em-off", perhaps.
"Beat-em-off" titles:
Advanced V.G.- SCD
Strip Fighter II - HuCard
#27
Quote from: Ayce on 10/21/2014, 10:21 PMSome of us don't have as much time as others. I understand that the search function is useful and I do use it on every forum I visit. Though when a question is on topic I don't the reason to give someone the third degree.
Gotta say, you're spending a lot of time complaining about someone telling you to use the search feature... far more than actually using it would've taken ;)
#28
Quote from: Ayce on 10/21/2014, 04:44 PMBy your train of thought... every question that should ever be asked on the forum must first be searched for via the search function. Got it! That makes perfect sense
In the Google Age, I'm surprised this isn't everyone's mindset to begin with, honestly...
But look at the corrolary: if anyone asked any question that popped into their heads without checking if it's been asked, people would spend all their time answering the questions that've been asked a number of times before, even if that particular question hasn't been asked for months or years.
That being said, pointing to the thread that answers it and then suggesting that someone search in the future is probably the ideal solution.
#29
Quote from: ccovell on 10/19/2014, 10:18 AMIn Gate of Thunder:
HDWRITE Version 2.1 Copyright 1987,88,89,90 Hudson soft
 使用法:HDWRITE [スィッチ] パス名 [グループ名] [ラベル名]
-U[M,N] ファイルの追加・更新、[M]は最大値、[N]はオフセット
16進 8桁のバイト値指定、[N]は800Hの倍数であること
-K 指定ファイル以後を全て削除する
-D ファイルに削除マークを付ける
-X ファイルの取り出し
-L 一覧出力
 エラーが発生しました
  がありません
 MD_GROUP__NAME____.EXT____BYTES__YY/MM/DD__HH:MM:SS__RECORD__LENGTH
 これ以後のファイルを削除します。よろしいですか(Y) ?
削除しました READ: WRITE: DELETE: KILL: G:\CD_DOC.DIR
\
\SI_OBJ  N_DEMO.BIN
SYSTEMPOST_GAP4S SYSTEMPRE_GAP 3S
For giggles, I translated the text.  It's unlikely that this tool will ever be used again, but hey, why not.
HDWRITE Version 2.1 Copyright 1987,88,89,90 Hudson soft
 How to use:HDWRITE [switch] pathname [group name] [label name]
-U[M,N] File add/update, [M] is the maximum value, [N] is offset
Specified as hex, 8 columns of byte values, [N] is in multiples of 800H
-K Deletes everything from the specified file onward
-D Puts a deletion mark on the file
-X Extracts file
-L List output
 Error occurred
  does not exist
 MD_GROUP__NAME____.EXT____BYTES__YY/MM/DD__HH:MM:SS__RECORD__LENGTH
 Everything from the specified file onward will be deleted.  Is that OK(Y)?
Deleted READ: WRITE: DELETE: KILL: G:\CD_DOC.DIR
\
\SI_OBJ  N_DEMO.BIN
SYSTEMPOST_GAP4S SYSTEMPRE_GAP 3S
#30
Nice.  I think I've got a mod worked out for the old db Electronics converters, but it loses the switching function then (i.e. it basically is made into a PC Henshin).

Update: Yeah, this mod seems to work.  As I might've mentioned before, I don't have a working CD-ROM2 but in theory this should make the adapter passive, and thus resolve the problem.
#31
The strangest place I've found PCE games is Japan.  That place is pretty crazy! ;)
Seriously... I remember finding someone selling a stack of Hueys out in a free-air flea market outside of (what was at the time) Skymark Stadium in Kobe.  I asked him how much for the stack, and eventually I think we settled on about 1000 yen ($10).  Some pretty good stuff in there, too!  All loose, but I got Twinbee, Space Harrier, and a few others in that batch, I think.
#32
Buy/Sell/Trade / WTB: loose Hueys
10/19/2014, 07:22 AM
If you have these Hueys kicking around and working, please let me know what you want for them:

Bravoman
Darkwing Duck
Ghost Manor
Impossamole
J.J and Jeff
Night Creatures
R-Type
Tale Spin
Turrican

Thanks!
(BTW, yes, I know a few of these are pricey.  Just seeing what people want for them, and then I'll make my decision about whether it's worthwhile or not.)
#33
Hmmm... I just ran into a similar issue just the other day.  I had my Avenue Pad 6 connected to the tap and was playing Victory Run, and it started pausing repeatedly, even though the switch was set to A (2 button).  I removed it and plugged in a 2 button controller in the same port, and it started working fine.  I just kind of said "weird" and put it aside, but it's interesting to know that this happens sometimes...
#34
Quote from: Joe Redifer on 10/07/2014, 03:03 PMI don't know why Hudson and NEC made the crappy PC Engine when they could have made the glorious SNES instead.
FINALLY!  Someone gets it!

... But seriously though, I seem to recall hearing somewhere that the PC Engine was originally pitched to Nintendo to be a successor to the Famicom, and Nintendo basically told them to shove it, because Famicom was still insanely popular at the time.  Sounded like they also intended PCE to be somewhat backwards compatible with Famicom when they originally designed it, but it took a different turn after Nintendo shunned them.
Soooo... maybe if Nintendo had jumped on that, it WOULD be called Super Famicom.
Wish I could find that article now...
#35
Quote from: TurboXray on 10/07/2014, 12:39 PMI honestly can't remember. It's been awhile, but since controllers are only read once every vblank - and I remember a strange situation where the solution for some game's code to work, seemed that the device had to time out at some point. I can't find any of my notes, so it might as well be speculation at this point :/ I'll be testing TAP code in the near future for a game project in the works, so I'll make sure to post notes at that point.
OK, cool.  Yeah, if you happen to whip up some test code that can determine what the minimum is for a timeout on a real tap, that would be very useful info.
#36
Yeah, especially if you've got a TurboExpress/PCE GT.  Carrying around all your Hueys would suck.
Same thing with the DS... I don't have any ROMs that I don't own the cards for on it, but I've got enough DS games that carrying them around every time I go somewhere is a pain!
#37
Quote from: esteban on 10/06/2014, 11:20 PM
Quote from: imparanoic on 10/06/2014, 11:01 PMsurely, red book audio on pc engine super cd rom is much better than chip generated snes music, for example Dracula/castlevania rondo of blood vs vampire kiss or castlevania 4
Chiptunes4eva.

Red Book = cheatin'
Truth!  And seriously, you can't even say that Castlevania IV didn't rock ALL your genitalia off (both in music and in game) the first time you played it.
#38
*sigh* You're right, I was remembering the wire bonding and thinking that the wires were soldered, but that's unlikely.
Warrior needs sleep... badly.
#39
Quote from: thesteve on 08/11/2014, 03:13 AMThere is no solder in the card, so bad idea
You sure about that?  Epoxy "glop tops" often have dies soldered to the PCB under them.

I've got a couple of HuCards that are broken (and were given to me that way).  Now that PC Henshin Turbo is working, I kinda really want to play them though :(  I traced the signals and at least one pin doesn't appear to be working on this Bonk card, and not sure what's up with Splatterhouse (maybe nothing at all?)  I'd be interested to know more about this hairdryer trick, though.
I'm kind of wondering if the vias corrode over time.  I see that they've got them right on the connector, and the wear from insertion and removal seems to go right up to them (maybe even over them).  That's pretty sure to be a weak spot over time.
#40
I just played the two tracks over each other... pretty effin' weird.
They both have their charms, I think.
#41
Quote from: cjameslv on 10/06/2014, 04:33 PMIf you can give me a diagram of this idea, i'll throw it on a breadboard and test it and post results. Then we could have 2 port mod that would be able to be more mainstream and not turn off those that need to play 3+ players.
I don't think that this really helps that particular use case... you still can't daisy-chain multitaps.  The software still only knows how to read from a single multitap.  My comment about it was really saying that 1-player games can be played through a multitap without needing special code to handle multitaps.  Once you start going to 2+ players, you're still stuck with the single multitap, because certain signals (such as the reset pulse) never get passed further down.
#42
Quote from: TurboXray on 10/06/2014, 03:05 PMThat's what my tests showed. It (the TAP) knows what controllers are plugged in, but the system side itself doesn't know. You could build the TAP logic with some off the shelf TTL chips. If I remember correctly, it uses the clock line (for reading the upper and lower 4bits of the controller) to clock the to the next input. And if I remember correctly, either the 'reset bit' or a timeout device resets the TAP to position 1 (relative position 1, because it can detect which ports are controllers are plugged into).
Interesting.  Do you know that there's a timeout, or is that speculation?  I guess that a timeout would be useful for games that use only the original 2 button controller and only sample every X milliseconds and don't have support for more than 1 player.  They wouldn't care if it's a multitap or not then.
#44
The only time I could see it being a problem is if you have your unit in an entertainment center with doors on it (with room to get a controller cable out), but the door would hit the adapter/HuCard.  Actually, as you can see in those photos, my entertainment center is pretty well full, but the PC Engine has its own shelf, so it can sit back as far as it needs to. ;)
#45
Quote from: crans on 10/05/2014, 04:26 AMNice work guys.

Dont beat me but i love the look of a clean system. Will you offer in the future a switch free region chip for those who love to get down with a solder iorn? Turbo or PCE?
Not planning on it, sorry.  I've already got my next project or two figured out, and while one or more of them involve TG16/PCE, this isn't one of them ;)
To be honest, I'm not sure it's possible without some ridiculous effort.  The chip would need to sit there and in the early bits of code determine "am I getting gibberish?  Or is this valid HuC6280 code I'm passing up to the console?"  I mean, it's doable with some effort (if the chip has a limited HuC6280 opcode decoder in it, etc.) but that's a whole level beyond this.  I can't imagine it would be as reliable as the existing methods (it would take some iterations to get it right).  If the console had a reset button, there could be something done where you hold it for X seconds to flip the bus, but NEC in their wisdom neglected to put one of those on.
I also like the look of a clean console, which is why I'm happy with this solution.  When I'm done playing, take this out and my PCE doesn't have a switch or extra jacks on it anywhere to be found :)
#46
Quote from: PikachuWarrior on 10/03/2014, 11:43 PMI would get this if the green pcb didn't stick out of the console. Is there a way to make it flush?
I agree with db on this one.  You can do it, but it'd suck.
Some existing converters have you stick the HuCard's contacts into a connector, which then bends around and you've got all sorts of crazy vias (the things you see on circuit boards when signals go from one layer to the other) and crap everywhere to deal with.  And even then, they aren't flush with the front of the console (they still stick out a bit, because the HuCard on top needs to have somewhere to go).
One thing you *could* do is, if you don't have a CD-ROM unit attached to the TG16 or PCE, all of the HuCard's signals exist on the back of the unit, so in theory you COULD put a second HuCard slot dedicated to the other console back there.  But that would be kinda silly.
... The "no" you got from esteban is looking really good right now, but really, there are many ways to skin a cat.
#47
I'd have tested it on System Cards but my CD-ROM2 is broken :(  I'm trying to decide what to do to rectify this situation.
The "Turbo" version of the PC Henshin converter works both ways (TG16 games on PCE, and PCE games on TG16), but if you've got a TG16, just buy the passive edition that db is selling already.  The latest one is designed to work with System Cards (removes the fancy switch that interfered).
#48
Please enter me -- I've only got a broken copy :(  Thanks!
#49
Hi all,
I'm so happy to announce that there is finally an alternative to performing modifications on your PC Engine to play TG16 games.  Over the past year, I've been working with db Electronics on an updated converter board.
For TG16 owners, the big improvement over the previous db TG16 converter is that there is no longer the switching system that interferes with devices such as the Super System Card.  We call the completely passive model "PC Henshin" (as a pun on PC Engine -- it "transforms" a TG16 into a PC Engine).
For PCE owners, we've made a version with a chip that patches out the region check in real-time, leaving the rest of the game untouched.  We call this "PC Henshin Turbo" and it should go on sale in the coming weeks, now that the prototype is functional.  I've tested it with 8 titles so far, but based on our research, if it works for those titles, it should support the entire TG16 library.
A picture and a short video of it working is now posted at http://www.db-elec.com/home/News/dontmodthatpc-engine-pchenshinturbooffersmodlessalternativetoregionmoddingbothpceandtg16 for your enjoyment.  Personally, I was thrilled to get this working, because I foolishly sold my TG16 as a child, and I later regretted it and bought a PC Engine and a ton of games when I lived in Japan.  I don't like modding classic consoles, myself, so I was happy to be able to play Keith again for the nostalgic value (because I never picked up Mashin Eiyuuden Wataru... but if I'd done that, maybe I wouldn't have been as motivated to get this going!)
Anyway, this is basically just a heads-up that this is coming real soon!
#50
What power supply are you using to power it?  As I recall, it needs at least 1.5A (maybe 1450mA?)