10/31/2023: Localization News - Dead of the Brain 1!

No, NOT a trick, a Halloween treat! Presenting the Dead of the Brain 1 English patch by David Shadoff for the DEAD last official PC Engine CD game published by NEC before exiting the console biz in 1999! I helped edit/betatest and it's also a game I actually finished in 2023, yaaay! Shubibiman also did a French localization. github.com/dshadoff/DeadoftheBrain
twitter.com/NightWolve/PCENews
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Messages - robotype

#1
Quote from: Keith Courage on 05/10/2018, 06:20 AMYou are going to have to do the adjustment via process of elimination. Just make an adjustment to one of them and then test the drive. If things don't improve then put the settings back to where they were and try another potentiometer. This is how I do it and I've been repairing these for years.
yes that's what I was doing but I noticed even very small increments make a difference, so it takes a while to figure out.
I was wondering if this could be a "typical" fault than can be solved with standard adjustments. thanks for the suggestion anyway.
#2
Quote from: waynedoodle on 02/25/2018, 12:00 AMIf my music is dropping out (and slow CD-R load) which pot should I adjust?  Also, should an increase in pot be clockwise or counterclockwise?

I love my CD I've had since 92, gear was replaced but I think my twin brother tinkered with the pots a long time ago in college when the CD quit (unknown gear failure).  Games mostly work but I get music dropping.
I just recapped a cdrom2 and has the same problem, music drops and it's very sensible to vibrations (I am using original discs only)

I'd like to know which pot is most likely the culprit.

This is the resistance values on my pots on a good working unit fully recapped

pot 101 (e/f balance) = 9.4
pot 102 (focus offset) = 0.4
pot 103 (track gain) = 17.0
pot 104 (focus gain) = 17.1
pot 105 (vco) = 19.3

so I adjusted the faulty one to the same values but it's still very weak.
#3
ok I replaced the two smd behind the heatsink on the right and didn't help, so I replaced the two in front but nothing changed so I recapped the whole thing and now I hear sound effects loud and clear. I think the two caps related to the mixing are the two on the right (near the cd player).

my duo now plays anything perfect (only original games, I don't have CD-Rs)

these are my impedance readings

101 AB  7.3  AC 13.4  BC 19.1
102 AB  8.6  AC  7.8   BC  9.9
103 AB 15.9 AC  2.5   BC 17.8
104 AB 19.4 AC  1.7   BC 20.3
105 AB 0.00 AC  0.36 BC 0.36

I didn't measure the white pot on the lens
#4
Quote from: thesteve on 04/19/2015, 03:09 PMThe 2 SMD caps behind the heatsink on the right
They leak so cleaning the area is as important as the parts
great! thanks
#5
I promise you I will do the full recap but just out of curiosity, if someone knows it, which are the caps related to the audio mix?
#6
I opened the duo many times it's very quick I want to try and replace only the caps related to the audio mixing section before the full recap (which I will certanly do when I get the full cap kit)
#7
Quote from: thesteve on 04/19/2015, 04:15 AMit could be cap related
there is a mixer circuit that uses cap charge to adjust the mix levels
I want to recap that section, can you point me at which caps could be related to the issue?
#8
Thank you for the detailed instructions danyetman and thesteve, I fixed my duo! now it seems to read everything and the music plays fine. BUT I noticed while the music is on the sound effects are very very low. is this a common issue? could it be a cap? if I play hucards I hear the audio just fine.
#9
after several hours I could have it working with almost all games, but "kiaidan 00" is the most difficult, music won't work during the game shoild I insist on v101 and v103? I also medded with the white pot on the lens, anyone knows the correct impedance for that one? couldn't measure the frequency yet  but I didn't touch v105 after the recap
#10
today I had my first experience with a duo recap: black japanese duo with new hop-m3 spins but doesn't read so I replace 4 caps like suggested in doujindance video on youtube, it works but only with one game so I rotate ccw the white pot on the lens assembly and reads more games but I still have some problems with music on some games. should I keep rotating the white pot or maybe start messing with the five small pots on the pcb? after reading this discussion I really do not want to touch those (great thread by the way).
#11
thanks for the suggestion. Actually I already tried to go under the spindle with a screwdriver and use it as a lever to lift it up but it doesn't seem to move the slightest bit...it's stuck in that position. feels like applying more force would result in a crack somewhere so I don't want to do that. worst case I will use some adeshive rings on top of the spindle to rise the disc. anyway how it went so low is a mistery. I can only think of a kid pushing the cd downwards.
#12
I just saved four cdrom2 units which had the middle gear crumbled; 3 of them work perfect while the last one has the weirdest problem... the spindle is too low! so the disc won't spin when you close the lid. this is the individual box cdrom2 version (black spindle). I put some tape to lift it about half mm and it works ok! I wonder how is this possible? anyone knows how to rise the spindle assembly? or is there a discussion about this?
#13
NEC Console Resource / hi there
01/12/2014, 09:42 PM
I've been a pc engine user for more than 20 years, recently revived my machines thanks to the reproduction middle gear and so I decided to join this forum to share thoughts