REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Total Capacitor Replacement Chart

[Platinumfungi]

Here's a chart of the capacitors in the Turbo Express. I'm not sure but I'm assuming that the JPN version is the same. Hopefully this will make repair work for people a bit easier.

Please feel free to use it, but don't claim that this is yours or try to make money off it. That's not why this is here...

As always questions and comments welcome.

Special thanks go to Nat for adding some missing information, and to Custm42435 for making a correction



Backup:

[nat]

100µF 6V

[Platinumfungi]

Great! Thanks Nat. I'll update this within 24 hours.

Updated and ready!

[chop5]

nice chart 

[Platinumfungi]

Thanks chop. PM me if you'd still like a Duo pic.

[Platinumfungi]

Just updated the chart with new info from Nat.

[Duo_R]

RG - this is really nice. I liked using your Duo chart, that was very helpful! For those installing - try to not go more than 2X the original voltage.

[agt_dale_cooper]

NICE frigging chart!!!!
I suggest a sticky for this, if possible.
Also need somebody to update the Duo version of this, version I have from Duo_R only has uF, not voltages....

[Platinumfungi]

Thanks 

I'll update the Duo chart if you'd like (if mine is the one you're talking about?). It's listed here in the repair/mod forum somewhere. Just search for "Duo total capacitor replacement chart".

[brettlee]

Hey guys, this chart should be put as a sticky. Simply invalueble info 

[Mehunglo]

YYYEEESSSS!!!!

[vasteelyobabymama]

what type of iron do i have to use to replace the caps?

[Platinumfungi]

Just a standard 15 watt soldering iron is fine. You can get one at Radio Shack if you need one. I think they're about $8.

[pceslayer]

This chart needs to be a sticky!

ok now my question... What would happen if I replace the Audio with 33uF 6.3V caps? nothing?

How dangerous is it to go above the current voltage?

[Duo_R]

You would hear sound. 

.......For those installing - try to not go more than 2X the original voltage.

This chart needs to be a sticky!

ok now my question... What would happen if I replace the Audio with 33uF 6.3V caps? nothing?

How dangerouse is it to go above the current voltage?

[Platinumfungi]

This chart needs to be a sticky!

I think it's in the works  (I asked about it at least)

[marshallh]

I'm fixing a TurboExpress for commision, which was completely dead. No video or sound. I used some capacitors I had laying around and did both the sound and video fixes. They did nothing.

I looked closer at the SMD caps and found that they were ALL leaking except for the three 100uF 16v bigger caps. You can tell because there is a yellowish coloring on the leads.

I didn't want to cram leaded caps in there, so I found SMD replacements from Digikey.

1   8   493-2088-1-ND   CAP 100UF 6.3V ELECT WX SMD      0   0.17000   $1.36
2   1   493-2118-1-ND   CAP 22UF 35V ELECT WX SMD      0   0.17000   $0.17
3   1   493-2083-1-ND   CAP 22UF 6.3V ELECT WX SMD      0   0.13000   $0.13
4   5   PCE3859CT-ND   CAP ELECT 33UF 6.3V VS SMD      0   0.15200   $0.76
5   1   493-2099-1-ND   CAP 10UF 16V ELECT WX SMD      0   0.13000   $0.13
6   5   PCE4643CT-ND   CAP ELECT 4.7UF 35V VS SMD      0   0.15400   $0.77
7   5   PCE4304CT-ND   CAP 4.7UF 50V ELECT VS BI-POLAR      0   0.28800   $1.44
8   3   493-2105-1-ND   CAP 100UF 16V ELECT WX SMD      0   0.17000   $0.51

The part number is the third column. The Panasonic resistors can only be ordered in sets of 5.

After replacing all these capacitors the TE booted right up, and was loud as heck.
I'm pretty sure everyone is going to need to replace all the capacitors eventually. The video fix and audio fix are bandaids at best.

The bad capacitors: /img0613s.jpg

Fixed: /img0609rjm.jpg

These are the new ones. Hopefully you can't tell the difference, except for the one trace I lifted XD
/img0608.jpg

[bacteria]

Ah, marshallh - decided to pop over here and dip your toes into the water from the BenHeck forum then?   

[marshallh]

Yeah, the TurboExpress is such a unique piece of machinery that I thought it was fitting the job got done right.

I'm already planning a CoreGrafx portable, with built-in flash cart. The addressing scheme seems to be pretty simple and no dirty tricks like the NES/SNES. Far off in the future, though. I might have more motivation if there's a demand for such a thing.

[bacteria]

Interesting project. No idea market for it, the consoles are expensive as you know; although the games are very good. Using a flashcard is a good idea, although of course most of the games (good ones) aren't that expensive. The TurboGrafx/PC-Engine games are one of my favourite platforms now; so I am looking forward to finishing my project.

[spenoza]

There is SO demand for this. Hell, I won't be a grad student forever. I intend to be employed full-time in the next year, and if you pull this off it'll be at the top of my wish list.

Yeah, the TurboExpress is such a unique piece of machinery that I thought it was fitting the job got done right.

I'm already planning a CoreGrafx portable, with built-in flash cart. The addressing scheme seems to be pretty simple and no dirty tricks like the NES/SNES. Far off in the future, though. I might have more motivation if there's a demand for such a thing.

[Custm42435]

Here's a chart of the caps on the Turbo Express I made. I'm not sure but I'm assuming that the JPN version is the same.

Hopefully this will make Express repair work for people a bit easier.

Please feel free to use it, but don't claim that this is yours or try to make money off it. That's not why this is here...

Special thanks go to Nat for adding some missing information


Don't use, errors corrected!

The bottom center cap under the metal shield is a 10uf 16v not a 100uf 6v.... cc704

[blueraven]

I just pulled all the caps off of my express and that one was a 100uf 6v.

[Custm42435]

I just pulled all the caps off of my express and that one was a 100uf 6v.

i meant the bottom center one... its a 10uf 16v not a 100uf 6v

[blueraven]

I thought you meant the center one, under the heat shield. You're right! 10uf 16v!

[Platinumfungi]

I'll update the chart in the near future with that cap info. Thanks for catching it

[Platinumfungi]

Ok, just updated the chart with the corrected cap. Thanks again Custm42435 for catching it 

It's a bit more zoomed in this time...doesn't quite fit on the page but you can scroll over... I'm not in the mood to work on it anymore at this time so I'm leaving it like this unless people really think it's an issue.

Enjoy!

[Platinumfungi]

Just uploaded a totally new version of the cap chart. Better photo, better background, etc. Enjoy 

[esteban]

Rock on, this is nice as well. Good work.

[BlackandBlue]

Thanks, this is going to come in handy shortly... or whenever I actually get myself to start replacing the caps.  I opted for the radial type resistors, so hopefully I can squeeze them all in there.

[override]

I figured this would be as good a place for any to show Bludgeons Turbo Express! I took it apart yesterday and examined the board, it didnt look all that bad....until I started pulling caps off. 

EVERY SINGLE CAP LEAKED, even the one on the controller board...When Blud sent me the system it would not play video or sound at all...In fact I would go as far to say (although I didnt test) it may not of even turned on if I had tried. I ordered all High Temperature capacitors for the system from mouser.com (which now that I have used mouser I would recommend them over newark.com). They had every cap needed at good prices! Also shipping was I think 2 days from the night I ordered and it all came in one box unlike newarks two boxes that didnt arrive at the same time.

Well I got the caps in and went to town, I started pulling cap to find out how bad it really was! In the first picture of this post, I had all caps removed, you can see the electrolytic acid all over the board, it was glistening there was so much. After pulling everything off I went to the sink, filled with warm water and sprayed the board down with what seems to be a very good cleaning agent! I have used it on all the board so far and it does very well. The cleaner is called tough and gentle all-purpose cleaner. I cleaned the board with a toothbrush, rinsed and then stuck it in the oven for 15 mintues to dry!

15 minutes later...

Boards now clean and dry, I desoldered as much from the cap pads as possible, and then scrapped all of them with a flat blade x-acto knife. I then added flux to each pad followed by a soldering iron to kinda help prepare them. After all was clean, I reflowed solder on every pad, i had to go back and scrap a couple more pads to get the solder to flow on the full pad. Afterwords I applied flux again to the newley soldered pads.

Now its time to pull the caps out and figure the placement for them, so I start examining and cutting cap legs to fit the board. I soldering all the caps back together and cleaned the board one last time with a blast of air.

System goes back together for a test run......I notice that some caps are not allowing the system to fit properly at this stage. Popped some batteries in and tested the Turbo Express! Success!!!   The TE was loud and clear and video was working great!

Ok, now its time to take apart and figure out which caps need to be moved around....I figured it all out, recut and resoldered some stuff, added hot glue to spots that seem they may be trouble areas and to help secure some caps. System goes back together, all final pictures are taken....Now its time for a final test run. System is functioning correctly and plays well, sound is clear and crisp!

Ready for the pics and final video I made for Bludgeon? Im sure the suspense is building! lol

Well here they are, all high temp caps, I believe should be ok up to 105°C which converts to 221°F!

The three red circles were caps that were so bad they popped off by thumb pressure alone, the blue cap was the first I had replace but had leaked really bad:


Caps pulled board uncleaned:
/dpg_override/Blugeons%20TE/Capspulledoffunclean.jpg

Board cleaned and scraped: /ScrappedoffandClean.jpg

Cap Pads reflown with solder: /CapPadsReflownwithsolder2.jpg

Caps almost finsihed: /Capsalmostfinished2.jpg

Rearranged a Cap or two: /Rearrangedacaportwo.jpg

Rearranged caps final: /Rearrangedcapsfinal.jpg

Controller Board: /ControllerboardCap.jpg

Front guard back on: /Puttinggaurdsbackonfront.jpg

Back guard back on: /Puttinggaurdsbackonback.jpg

Final video for Blugeon:
/dpg_override/Blugeons%20TE/?action=view¤t=Bludsfinaltest.flv
/dpg_override/Blugeons%20TE/Bludsfinaltest.jpg

Thanks goes out to Red Ghost for the visual guide to follow! Helped the process move faster! I noticed on this board there were only (6) 100uF 6v caps....Start to finish was 3hrs 30 minutes! 

[Bludgeon]

To sweet. Can hardly wait to get my baby back and my Duo also. Thank you very much Override for ressurecting what I thought was a 300.00 paperweight. Now to see if the tv tuner still gets tv stations in. lol

[Duo_R]

nice job override, that is how I normally replace the caps but haven't seen one yet that needed a full swap. Oh and nice wifebeater.... LOLMAX

[NecroPhile]

Another 'Express saved from the landfill.  Congrats on gettin' 'er sorted out and back in order. 

Oh and nice wifebeater.... LOLMAX

[blueraven]

You may remember my completely-narfed express from this thread:

https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=6971.0

Every cap in this Turbo Express was corroded and leaking, except for the 470uf cap right between the volume and tint knob. Although I was able to get the unit to boot once to watch Jeapordy with no sound before the digital TV switchover, it popped, fizzled, and went dead. The video caps faded, and the sound was non-existent even with earphones. The batteries were left in this thing for YEARS, and then it was left in a damp basement. 

I opened the TE, and found extensive rust residue that had collected in the bottom of the unit. The entire thing was disassembled, cleaned with 70% isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush, fluxed and oiled. Upon disconnecting the board, I could already smell battery acid (that alkaline thing)

This is how the board looked after the capacitors were removed, and extensive cleaning.



The board is generally in pretty good shape. After cleaning and desoldering the board, It started to look good until the copper traces lifted away with the solder from their 10-year encounter with the battery acid. I make new traces with pieces of tinfoil and proceed.



The NTK 180° cap replacement went excellent as a general rule, with the exceptions of the three trouble caps; The to 100uf caps right next to the audio caps, and the one left video cap. In two of the three cases, I had to trace back to the hole, and solder the scrap-legs of capacitors directly into the trace hole and cross-hatch at 45-90 degrees to make a connection. The video cap was the worst.

You may also notice the discolored pin on the bottom HU6280 CPU chip, it was a huge rust deposit that covered 3 solder pins  and was cleaned upon initial assembly. 

Here's the finished board; with 47uf sound caps (teh Upgrad3Z! Little buggers are LOUD!) 



Special thanks to chop5, Override, and The Old Rover for bearing with me on this in shout! Also, thanks RedGhost for the diagram; the old Engineer guys at the electronics store were really impressed when they saw how thorough it was!

I cracked a Pabst and played Bonk's Revenge and Splatterhouse for the first time in 15 years last night. Even killed teh 6 batteries. 

[override]

Im very glad to have been able to help ya blue! Congrats to another successful TE save! 

[Keith Courage]

I have been staying quiet on this matter because from what I can tell the topic how now become pretty ugly. I have in no way stolen your idea to make a huge gain for myself. I have been repairing drives like this for a couple years now for a couple local video game stores in my area. It's only been recently that I have decided to put my services on ebay. You claim that my price is too high. I spend at least 5-6 hours working on and testing these drives. I also have to buy parts for the repairs. Do you know how much money I actually make ? About $8 an hour after it's all said and done. If it was about money I'd just go and get a 2nd job and not offer this service. You are welcome to offer your service for less and to take some of my business. I am not worried or care about that as this is not my full time job and it is something I do to help people out by keeping their CD drives going. I just don't like being blamed as a stealer of someone else's ideas for my own gain. Think it all you want but this is not the case.

[NecroPhile]

I have been staying quite on this matter because from what I can tell the topic how now become pretty ugly. I have in no way stolen your idea to make a huge gain for myself. I have been repairing drives like this for a couple years now for a couple local video game stores in my area. It's only been recently that I have decided to put my services on ebay. You claim that my price is too high. I spend at least 5-6 hours working on and testing these drives. I also have to buy parts for the repairs. Do you know how much money I actually make? About $8 an hour after it's all said and done. If it was about money I'd just go and get a 2nd job and not offer this service. You are welcome to offer your service for less and to take some of my buisiness. I am not worried or care about that as this is not my full time job and it is something I do to help people out by keeping their CD drives going. I just don't like being blamed as a stealer of someone elses ideas for my own gain. Think it all you want but this is not the case. 

Wrong thread, chief.  I don't know if the chicken or the egg came first, but it sure would've been nice if you shared your experiences with the other peeps trying to repair stuff.

[thesteve]

why is everyone using leaded caps, oe style are available at digikey and not bad at install.
http://onlinecatalog.digikey.com/WebProject.asp?CodeId=7.4.4.18&pagelabel=1721#

[PunkCryborg]

I changed mine out this weekend and I am amazed at how much it improved the picture quality. I didn't have any sound at all before and now I can hear the KILLER music in Rastan Saga 2 in all it's glory on the go.

Thanks this awesome forum for all the help especially from BlueBMW and Chop5.
If anyone is hesitant about trying this, I had minimal soldering skill and was a little nervous at first but it turned out great. If I can do it you can too.

[roflmao]

That's good to know.  I'll have to give it a shot on mine as well since it's basically a paper-weight right now.

[thesteve]

just got this one butchered as received

[thesteve]

repairs begun
using wires and wire strands to replace missing runs

[thesteve]

capacitors replaced

[thesteve]

working perfect

[roflmao]

Well, I went ahead and ordered a complete set of caps from Mouser.  Hopefully my poor little Express will be back in business sometime next week!

[roflmao]

Well I got my caps awhile back and have made 2 attempts at doing the replacement myself and have come to the conclusion that I suck at this. Is there anyone on the board here that would be willing to  take a crack at doing the repair on mine?  I ordered enough caps to replace them all on 5 expresses so whoever can do this repair will get all of those and I can offer cash or games or something to sweeten the deal.

[thesteve]

i can, chop can, beemer can.
likely others too.
look through this thread to see some of our work on the express.

[roflmao]

Thanks, thesteve.  Beemer sent me a PM so I'm sending it his way.  This community is too awesome.

[Keith Courage]

So has anyone here ever had to replace all the caps before? I mean I have repaired 3 turbo express units (one for me and two for friends) All they needed was the typical 1 Video cap replaced and 4 audio caps replaced. Do the other ones eventually go bad as well?