S-Video Mod Schematic for the Schematic-Illiterate (For TG-16/Duo etc)

[SNKNostalgia]

Back on the original topic, has anyone compared this newer s-video mod with the CXA1645 one?

I made a screenshot comparison page based on the CXA mod some time ago if anyone is interested: http://quebecgamers.com/sensato/Workshop/PCE_svid.htm

I took my screenshots with some ATI All-In-Wonder capture card from an old PC I don't have anymore.

The difference between svideo and composite seems bigger to me with these screenshots (based on the CXA1645 svideo mod) than with the newer mod but I will have to try the newer mod to see how it really does.

I almost pray that the output from the new mod is of similar quality than with the CXA mod because the new mod is simply MUCH easier to perform.

My Duo originally had the even better CXA 2075 S-video mod, which looked just a bit better than CXA 1645 from what I could tell. Now I have it with the newer S-video mod in the same Duo... which I added while I sent it off for a cap replacement after my attempt that went wrong.

I can tell you for sure, it is definitely better. First of all, even the pics you posted show it very well; the colors are more accurate and has a brighter picture more like you see in the original composite video, but much more vibrant and sharp. So you get the right colors and the brighter picture as intended. The new S-Video mod along with some caps added also gets rid of any jail bars and the subtle RF-like interference.

I say remove any CXA based S-Video mods and replace it with the new one.

[roflmao]

Back on the original topic, has anyone compared this newer s-video mod with the CXA1645 one?

I made a screenshot comparison page based on the CXA mod some time ago if anyone is interested: http://quebecgamers.com/sensato/Workshop/PCE_svid.htm

I took my screenshots with some ATI All-In-Wonder capture card from an old PC I don't have anymore.

The difference between svideo and composite seems bigger to me with these screenshots (based on the CXA1645 svideo mod) than with the newer mod but I will have to try the newer mod to see how it really does.

I almost pray that the output from the new mod is of similar quality than with the CXA mod because the new mod is simply MUCH easier to perform.

That's a great comparison, Sensato.  I don't think my composite looks that bad, but when I record it to DVD it ends up blurrier than what I see on the TV.  S-video looks sooo much sharper, though.  I'm really tempted to try this out.

[Sensato Black Lion]

My Duo originally had the even better CXA 2075 S-video mod, which looked just a bit better than CXA 1645 from what I could tell. Now I have it with the newer S-video mod in the same Duo... which I added while I sent it off for a cap replacement after my attempt that went wrong.

I can tell you for sure, it is definitely better. First of all, even the pics you posted show it very well; the colors are more accurate and has a brighter picture more like you see in the original composite video, but much more vibrant and sharp. So you get the right colors and the brighter picture as intended. The new S-Video mod along with some caps added also gets rid of any jail bars and the subtle RF-like interference.

I say remove any CXA based S-Video mods and replace it with the new one.

Good to have some opinions on that.

Something bugs me a bit though. Aren't the right colors are supposed to be the ones you get with RGB? S-video should be closer to RGB than composite, no? I mean composite colors might be the ones we are used to, but are they really the right colors?

This might already have been talked about earlier in the topic but since the chroma from the new svideo mod actually comes from a filtered composite video, I have a bit of a hard time understanding how they can be better than with the CXA mod.

New Svid colors: RGB to composite to chroma
CXA svid colors: RGB to chroma

I might not be as simple as that...

I have to agree that the CXA mod makes things a bit darker than they should be and that the jailbars can be annoying.

I will definitely do a side by side comparison very soon.

That's a great comparison, Sensato.  I don't think my composite looks that bad, but when I record it to DVD it ends up blurrier than what I see on the TV.  S-video looks sooo much sharper, though.  I'm really tempted to try this out.

Yeah, the screen caps from that page are a bit off compared to what they look like on your TV. It's unfortunately like that for ll my screenshots comparison pages.

[Sensato Black Lion]

I did a quick test earlier this morning and I must admit that I'm impressed with the "new mod".

I have some major color bleeding for now though but I blame the old .001 uf cap I used. The bleeding I have does not appear in screencaps seen in previous posts from other members.

There is VERY little chances that I'll ever spend 3-4 hours building another CXA1645 svideo circuit for the PCE...

Props to everyone who contributed to this mod!

[NightWolve]

Something bugs me a bit though. Aren't the right colors are supposed to be the ones you get with RGB? S-video should be closer to RGB than composite, no? I mean composite colors might be the ones we are used to, but are they really the right colors?

Bonknuts talked about this somewhere; essentially, the RGB pins from the Hu6260 video encoder chip haven't gone through some kind of colorspace adjustment that occurs internally. So actually, the raw RGB is technically kind of wrong colorspace-wise versus the Luma/Y that the same chip produces internally and outputs via pin 40 (this applies to the Chroma as well). Search his account if you want details.

There is VERY little chances that I'll ever spend 3-4 hours building another CXA1645 svideo circuit for the PCE...

Yeah, unnecessary for numerous reasons, the one above and the obvious one as far as how easy and cheap this is! Some foreign chip is never going to match the properly produced/mixed Luma/Y that the Hu6260 chip was already producing. What happened is it appears that technical people discovered the RGB+Sync pins first and the Luma/Y pin was discovered much later... So that's why the early mods required some foreign chip and hooking it up to the RGB+Sync lines. Luma/Y is produced by mixing RGB+Sync, 4 signals, and it's far more likely that Hudson engineers did a better job of mixing it properly than what some foreign chip can do by starting over, etc.

Still, there are more tweaks possible. You can get a pure/perfect Chroma by disconnecting the Luma/Y from the internal amplifier instead of using a filter capacitor - go a couple of pages back on this thread, I already talked about it. That's if you're willing to do that and restore Composite support by alternate means. The other thing is that the S8050 or 2n3904 transistors aren't the best way to amplify a video signal... There are chips that do a better job than a transistor and give you different/better results like the NJM2267 chip for example. Refer to ConHuevos here who used my SNES Component amp circuit which I designed around the S8050. He built that first, but then bought the NJM2267 and built a far more complex circuit just for purely amplification purposes here (NOT mixing). It's visibly better than the result with the S8050 transistor (which is equivalent to the 2n3904).

Anyhow, the simple point is you're dealing with a natively produced Luma/Y signal here and all you need is a good way to amplify it; going as far as getting another chip to mix it from raw RGB+Sync is never going to be as good and it might even introduce incompatibility problems as well (because of the Sync mixing and amplifying!!)... But on the other hand, when it comes to amplifying, these chips will tend to be better than generic transistors, etc. Overall, this transistor-based S-Video circuit is very cheap and very easy, so most people will be able to do it themselves and that outweighs most other factors. If you're a perfectionist like me though, you'll wanna go further. ;)

http://quebecgamers.com/sensato/Workshop/PCE_svid.htm

Great job on this BTW; a Javascript mouseover to switch between the S-Video shot and back was a good idea. My Turbo Duo Composite was pretty shitty I always thought, I think your shots capture it, even though it's with a capture card.

[Sensato Black Lion]

There is a lot of interesting info in that post NightWolve. I will definitely read this entire post and look more deeply into it.

http://quebecgamers.com/sensato/Workshop/PCE_svid.htm

Great job on this BTW; a Javascript mouseover to switch between the S-Video shot and back was a good idea. My Turbo Duo Composite was pretty shitty I always thought, I think your shots capture it, even though it's with a capture card.

Thanks! The mouse over idea wasn't mine though. I borrowed it from a guy who had PCE Screenshots vs Wii Screenshots. I believe it was Black Tiger on his Superpcenginegrafx site. There were some Virtual Console screenshots vs PCE screenshots done with the rollover script. Can't seem to find that page anymore.

[PCEngineHell]

Glad that people are using this mod to much success, and also finding ways to improve on it. At any rate, because I don't want anyone to be confused as to who originated this mod, actual thanks should go to the others who worked on it originally, which did not include me (certain Genesis II region mod, or Sony CXA1145 svideo mod, sure I was involved, but this one, nope, not me). All I did was do my own testing once I got a couple decks again, and provided a easy to understand schematic for some to use who might have a harder time with a more traditional one.

The guys who actually came up with this mod originally should be taking the credit for it. TheSteve was one of them I believe, and also one or two others. I don't think Drakon can be included in that list though, since whatever he was doing was going in a separate direction, removing components and using diff values, etc.

As for the color bleeding you are getting Black Lion, I cant really comment on that. I don't have that kind of issue on the decks I have done. Hopefully you can get it sorted out.

[ApolloBoy]

If you're getting color bleeding through S-video, try checking your ground connections. I've found that leaving the ground unconnected on either the chroma or luma lines can lead to some horrible color bleeding.

[Sensato Black Lion]

If you're getting color bleeding through S-video, try checking your ground connections. I've found that leaving the ground unconnected on either the chroma or luma lines can lead to some horrible color bleeding.

I'll check that thanks. I went and got some new .001 uf caps from a local shop. I tested the circuit with a cap from the batch he gave me and now I get no colors at all! Nice.

I asked for 1 nanofarads ceramic caps but he apparently gave me 1 picofarads caps. I also paid 50 cents each which seems a bit expensive to me. I'm always glad to buy local but sometimes it's a bit hard considering the difference in price. In this case, it still doesn't make the mod very expensive so I guess I shouldn't really complain.

[thesteve]

that is a bit high
you can leave the cap out as well

[chipperkwah]

For the 220 ohm resistor, what do you recommend? 1w? 1/4w?

[NightWolve]

The smallest are perfectly fine, 1/8 watt. Get a 500 pack from somewhere like this:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2994585

A solid 220 Ohm resistor will actually be like ~215 Ohms when measured, which is just about perfect resistance for the amplified output of a 2n3904 or S8050 transistor when powered with a +5V source for the Luma signal.

[chipperkwah]

Right on, thanks for the info. Here are the digikey part numbers for what I'll be using in case people don't feel like digging through their catalog. I think it should be fine to use 30awg wire to get the 5v from the expansion port to the SS8050, someone correct me if I should use thicker wire or stranded wire.

S-video jack - CP-2840-ND
SS8050 transistor - SS8050CBU-ND
220 ohm resistor - CF18JT220KCT-ND
SPDT rocker switch (if you want to retain composite) - 450-1016-ND

Other Stuff:

Wire wrap 30 AWG that I like from sparkfun - https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8031
Solder from sparkfun - https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10240
S-video cable from monoprice - http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10207&cs_id=1020701&p_id=2896&seq=1&format=2

[Sensato Black Lion]

I did a quick test earlier this morning and I must admit that I'm impressed with the "new mod".

I have some major color bleeding for now though but I blame the old .001 uf cap I used. The bleeding I have does not appear in screencaps seen in previous posts from other members.

I found out a few weeks ago that the "bleeding" I was talking about only occurs on one of my monitor. Turns out that that monitor doesn't like the composite video through the cap for chroma. The bleeding was all gone when I removed the resistor mentionned in Drakon's variant of the mod. I thought this might interest some of you...

[NightWolve]

SS8050 transistor - SS8050CBU-ND

FYI, ebay's the way to go for this transistor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-PCS-S8050D-S8050-8050-NPN-Transistor-NEW-TO-92-/

Pay $4 bucks with shipping, get 100 pieces and have plenty to spare in case of other projects, etc. You must specify to the seller that you want the S8050, not the other 2 types listed.

S-video jack - CP-2840-ND

Fair warning on this female S-Video jack part: I bought the same one from markertek and it did NOT include the hexagonal nut as pictured in the photo! I had to make my own, a really improvised solution...

I found out a few weeks ago that the "bleeding" I was talking about only occurs on one of my monitor. Turns out that that monitor doesn't like the composite video through the cap for chroma. The bleeding was all gone when I removed the resistor mentionned in Drakon's variant of the mod. I thought this might interest some of you...

Hmm, that's good to know, so some monitors might not like the Chroma filtered out of a Composite signal via a simple capacitor. You might wanna think about my idea here though of a switch instead of permanently breaking Composite support via resistor removal. A little more work, but better than permanently breaking it. It's based on what I did for my SNES:



So in the case of a TG-16/Turbo Duo, when the switch is in the C position (or Off), Luma is disconnected from the internal Composite circuit and all you're getting out of the yellow Composite output is a pure Chroma signal. When you disconnect your S-Video cable and need to go back to using Composite, you flip the switch and voila, it's back to working normally, etc. Note that modern TVs are phasing out S-Video support while still mostly maintaining Composite support, so you really don't want to permanently break it...

My trick above was so that I didn't need to drill a hole for a 4th yellow RCA jack. When it's in the C position, the green jack is outputting regular Composite. When it's in the opposite position, it's outputting pure Luma for use via a Component connection as intended, etc. I don't have a 'L' sticker to put there for 'Luma'. But anyway, you get the idea. You'd have a switch just like that next to your female S-Video output jack and the switch would interrupt a trace of the Luma signal; break the trace, connect 2 wires to both ends and to the switch. That's about it, just gotta find a good point to break/cut the trace. I hope this was a PC Engine with a normal sized resistor and not a surface mount one, or otherwise, I guess you probably broke it for good and didn't care at the time.

[PCEngineHell]

What was the name of the monitor/model number for the one having issues? That has to be a pretty rare event because even my sucky Dynex crt TV worked with the s-vid mod fine. I've yet to run into issues with any of my Tvs via the mod (I own 5 tvs, plus cap card also which it worked on fine), so makes me wonder.

[Sensato Black Lion]

Hmm, that's good to know, so some monitors might not like the Chroma filtered out of a Composite signal via a simple capacitor. You might wanna think about my idea here though of a switch instead of permanently breaking Composite support via resistor removal. A little more work, but better than permanently breaking it.

I hope this was a PC Engine with a normal sized resistor and not a surface mount one, or otherwise, I guess you probably broke it for good and didn't care at the time.

Yeah, there is no way I'm breaking composite compatibility. The mod was done on a US Duo and I aready installed a composite/svideo switch. I'm curious to know what that switch does on your SNES...

What was the name of the monitor/model number for the one having issues? That has to be a pretty rare event because even my sucky Dynex crt TV worked with the s-vid mod fine. I've yet to run into issues with any of my Tvs via the mod (I own 5 tvs, plus cap card also which it worked on fine), so makes me wonder.

The monitor is an LG M228WA. I've had it for about 5 years and, from what I recall, I never had any problem with any other svideo output/mod (and I've tried many different svideo mods on it). Other mods still look good on it to this day.

Not that it would make any difference but, I get the same "bleeding" results with the mod on that monitor whether it's done on a TG16 or an american Duo.

[PCEngineHell]

Is anyone one else here running into that issue that Black Lion is having? Also, Black Lion, I've read both good and bad things about your monitor. That one hails from back in 07 when they were kind of skimping on the SD inputs processing, so I am not too surprised that you are having a issue on it, even if it does seem like a random fluke for you. You're monitor maintains like a 6.5 out of 10 rating on Testfreaks. That is really not a good rating at all for a LCD. Pretty much the only really good reviews for it are from people who only use it for modern equipment.

If anyone else is having the same or similar issue with this mod as Black Lion, what tv are you using? LCD, CRT, make, model, year, etc?

[NightWolve]

Yeah, there is no way I'm breaking composite compatibility. The mod was done on a US Duo and I aready installed a composite/svideo switch.

Ah good.

I'm curious to know what that switch does on your SNES...

Already mentioned, 2nd paragraph under the photo. Got the idea from new TV sets that had 3 RCA jacks for Component, but the green jack is colored half green/half yellow to indicate that it'll accept either a Composite signal or a Luma if using Component. I wouldn't be smart enough to do a digital automatic switch, so a manual switch is what I could do and that really is the best way technically (no contamination possible at all). The reason manufacturers are doing it is to save on real estate. Instead of 4 female RCA jacks in the input module, you'll only need 3. So lately, all you see on input modules is RF for the antenna, 3 RCA jacks for Component/Composite and 2 or more HDMI inputs, etc.

[Sensato Black Lion]

Is anyone one else here running into that issue that Black Lion is having? Also, Black Lion, I've read both good and bad things about your monitor. That one hails from back in 07 when they were kind of skimping on the SD inputs processing, so I am not too surprised that you are having a issue on it, even if it does seem like a random fluke for you. You're monitor maintains like a 6.5 out of 10 rating on Testfreaks. That is really not a good rating at all for a LCD. Pretty much the only really good reviews for it are from people who only use it for modern equipment.

If anyone else is having the same or similar issue with this mod as Black Lion, what tv are you using? LCD, CRT, make, model, year, etc?

From what I've seen, most complaints I've read about this monitor is that it has bad sound. I'd also assume that most of the people who bought this monitor were to use it with modern stuff.

This MIGHT be the ONLY monitor with which this newer svideo mod causes trouble, but untill I'm 100% sure of this, I won't take any chances modding systems for others without adding a composite/svideo switch.

@NightWolve: oups sorry, looks like I didn't read that last paragraph. Hm, well thought about that composite/component switch!

[PCEngineHell]

This MIGHT be the ONLY monitor with which this newer svideo mod causes trouble, but untill I'm 100% sure of this, I won't take any chances modding systems for others without adding a composite/svideo switch.

I don't blame you on that, but I did read that others had issues with SD content on that monitor in regards to picture quality leaving a lot to be desired. It's pretty much a given that its chips handling the analog SD contents processing is subpar. As with any older cheaper to medium priced LCD monitor, this can happen. Everything analog SD wise is handled with a lot of processing compared to a SD CRT tv, so skimp on the tv cost, risk having issues. I waited until 2010 before I bought my Toshiba, and I only did it after looking up tons of reviews for its SD support, which ended up being rather highly regarded. I paid almost $500 for mine, but it gives good results. I am just at that point anymore where I don't want to run 8 to 16-bit stuff on it anymore. I have become spoiled.

Like I said, if anyone else is having the same or similar issue, would be helpful to have it posted on here, and to have their monitor model and type and year make listed. I would be really curious to see if it is happening to others if it is only related to LCD type monitors and if so, if it is just older types. Also just to state, I don't think the people who developed this mod had any intentions for others to just use it to mod other peoples systems for profit, nor did I provide the original post easy to read one for this purpose. Unless you have access to quite a few SD and HD tvs for testing (like me) then you have no business doing it for others for pay either.

[SNKNostalgia]

I say to hell with the LCD for retrogaming and locate a Sony PVM/BVM RGB monitor (handles composite and S-Video nicely also). If you can't get one that easily, just find yourself a decent 20"-27" Sony Trinitron from '99-2004. Stay away from the EDTV/HDTV CRTs for 240p gaming if you can. They are a nice alternative for 480i/p gaming but you lose scanlines with 240p due to line-doubling.

[Keith Courage]

Color bleeding can be happen if the wrong capacitor to go from composite sync to the S vid jack is used. Also double check the grounding cause that does what you have pictured as well. Test for a moment without the capacitor and see what happens.

[chipperkwah]

Going to be doing the s-video mod here in the next couple days, whenever my new iron shows up. I'll be taking nice high-res photos throughout the process, and I was wondering if it would be preferable to post them in this thread or start a new one? If PCEngineHell wants I can just send him the photos and he can add them to the first post. Or, anyone that wants to use them can use them in a guide.

[bigbacon]

sorry to bump this but with the transistor, I want to make sure I'm looking at this right.

obviously the Base leg goto HuC6260

is the collector leg the 5 volt line and the emitter to the s-video socket? I assume yes but want to be sure.

[ApolloBoy]

sorry to bump this but with the transistor, I want to make sure I'm looking at this right.

obviously the Base leg goto HuC6260

is the collector leg the 5 volt line and the emitter to the s-video socket? I assume yes but want to be sure.

Yes, and don't forget to add the 220 ohm resistor to the emitter.

[bigbacon]

ok so I tried this tonight and failed. I don't get video. My standard composite mod still works fine but the s-video is a no go.

far as I can tell, everything is connected correctly. the grounds work as I can use my multimeter and get a reading from the s-video cable to the pin on the EXT port.

I am not a electronic wiz but I get no reading through the capasitor, is that normal? I am assuming as even a new unused one does the same.

I assume I did something stupid but not sure what. My connections all seem good from the end of the cable to the back of the connector. Not sure how to test the rest.

[Keith Courage]

Post a picture please. I may be able to help you out if I can see what was done.

[Keith Courage]

Here are some pics of how I did the S-video for a TG16. Maybe this will help you. Also, please note that there is no capacitor in the picture. I hadn't hooked one up yet when the pic was taken.

Thought I'd post an update on doing S-video for a TG16 or PC engine that originally had the RF out. This is the easiest S-video mod to do. Some of you may already know this but I found better spots to tap moist signals needed. You can tap 5V and the Composite sync straight from two of the pins that originally went to the RF out. So if you de-solder your RF you can do your mod this way. So this saves having to run really long wires all the way to your expansion port and makes a sturdier connection for the transistor. Also, make sure to still use a 0.001 capacitor. There isn't one in the picture shown. I temporarily hooked it up that way for quick testing purposes. 

cimg6863.jpg
cimg6867i.jpg

[bigbacon]

I'll get some photos later today. I stupidily encased stuff in hot glue BEFORE testing it like an idiot.

[bigbacon]

I have other photos if needed. it is quite messy.

starshipvonbraun.com/ss/sega/p1050230.jpg

[bigbacon]

well... doesn't matter now. I broke it

[PCEngineHell]

I have other photos if needed. it is quite messy.

http://starshipvonbraun.com/ss/sega/p1050230.jpg

Lol looks like a Drakon job.

[Harmik]

I remember reading somewhere someone was working on a kit similar to the ones for Atari and Colecovision has anyone heard anything about that.

Cheers

[ApolloBoy]

For something this simple I don't really think you need a kit. It's only a single transistor, single cap, single resistor and an S-vid jack, not much else to it.

[Harmik]

Easy for you to say

Also I like a professional look underneath ( OCD ) 

[Marll]

I think that I may try this soon. It looks relatively simple and should be able to get all the parts I need at the Fry's Electronics near where I work.

I plan on hooking this up to a Commodore 1702 monitor, which allows for separate Chroma/Luma inputs. I figure the S-Video Mod plus one of the below cables will really make things look nice on that monitor (which looks amazing even with composite).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hosa-6Ft-S-Video-Breakout-Cable-S-Video-Male-Male-RCA-VSA356-/390929793225?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b053b40c9

I also recently got a RetroN 3 system, which allows for S-Vid out, so using that cable and monitor I think that the NES/SNES/Genny games I'll be playing will look great too.

Any suggestions or advice on potential pitfalls with this mod? I'm a bit rusty with the ol' soldering iron, but overall this looks very simple.

[cjameslv]

I think that I may try this soon. It looks relatively simple and should be able to get all the parts I need at the Fry's Electronics near where I work.

I plan on hooking this up to a Commodore 1702 monitor, which allows for separate Chroma/Luma inputs. I figure the S-Video Mod plus one of the below cables will really make things look nice on that monitor (which looks amazing even with composite).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hosa-6Ft-S-Video-Breakout-Cable-S-Video-Male-Male-RCA-VSA356-/390929793225?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b053b40c9

I also recently got a RetroN 3 system, which allows for S-Vid out, so using that cable and monitor I think that the NES/SNES/Genny games I'll be playing will look great too.

Any suggestions or advice on potential pitfalls with this mod? I'm a bit rusty with the ol' soldering iron, but overall this looks very simple.

+1 to this man for the necro.

[Marll]

Haha, very true!

At least the last post before me was this year and not something from 2008 I suppose 

[Marll]

Quick question, I see a lot of people talking about retaining composite when doing the s-vid mod. Are there any worries about not being able to get composite vid from the expansion port once the mod is done? I'd like to retain the capability of my CD dock, just adding s-vid to the Turbo.

Also I see that what appears to be the easiest way to mount the s-vid jack is to remove the RF box. For arguments sake, would it be easy (though with case mods) to mound the s-vid on the back of the system?

[thesteve]

yes S-vid can be done without losing composite
yes if you want to cut a hole you can mount it wherever

[Marll]

That being said it appears that the easiest way to do the s-vid mod would be to remove the RF box and mount the jack in that hole.

What is the preferred method that people use to mound it to the PCB or case?


Does anyone have a preferred parts list/model numbers for the various items required for the mod?

[Fidde_se]

Should be noted that Chroma and Luma can be combined to make Composite from S-Video, even temporary when needed.

[Keith Courage]

These always work well if you need composite instead of s-video at any point  http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCA-Female-Composite-Video-to-S-Video-VHS-Male-Adapter-Connector-Gold-Plated-/301130903739?pt=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item461cccf0bb

[Marll]

Yeah those connectors might come in handy at some point. My plan is to take s-vid from the TG16 and sound from the CD dock.

I don't think I saw one (but maybe I missed it buried in other posts), but is there a parts list for the various components needed for the mod? Like a preferred s-vid jack, transistor, etc.? How do people that do the mod typically prefer to mount the s-vid jack to the system?

[pdiggitydogg]

These always work well if you need composite instead of s-video at any point  http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCA-Female-Composite-Video-to-S-Video-VHS-Male-Adapter-Connector-Gold-Plated-/301130903739?pt=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item461cccf0bb

I was going to ask about these. Seems to be a good idea if we're "removing" composite for s-video.

[Keith Courage]

Hey, I just wanted to post an update on this modification.  Especially when it comes to the background hex pattern that people have been mentioning seeing when the screen scrolls.

I have tested this on many TVs and have found that some Newer HD CRT TVs have this issue where as slightly older CRT TVs do not.

For example I have owned two 36" Sony Trinitron HDCRT TVs. One was made in 2001 and the other 2002. Both TVs show an extreme hex pattern in backgrounds when the screen scrolls using this s-video modification. However any non HD CRT TV I have tried it on looks absolutely perfect with no signs of the hex pattern whatsoever. So wiring is definitely not the problem. I would like to also add that the same TV that has problems with this mod also will not work with Light guns for various systems nor does it appear to have any visible scan-lines even though it is a CRT TV. So be aware that some newer HDCRT TVs may not work well for retro games or this s-video mod and that the picture in general may not be as good as some other CRT TVs from the missing scanlines whether you are going s-video or not.

Not all HDCRT TVs are bad for retro games. I came across a 27" Sanyo HDCRT that still has scanlines, still works with light guns, and displays no hex background pattern when using s-video.

I just wanted to warn people since I've heard of lots of retro gamers getting Sony HDCRT TVs for their gaming. Test before you buy.

[GohanX]

Yeah, I'm not crazy about HDCRTS, they are better than lcd sets for old gaming but not great. Better to get one of the later SD Trinitrons.

[pdiggitydogg]

I just wish my Mitsubishi megaview was working... I just picked it up for RGB and it died the next day. Was a month the ago. I can't find the service manual...

[thesteve]

for most things you dont need the service man
tell us more about this megaview