NES RGB Cable Question

[crazydean]

My wife just bought me an NES RGB PPU kit, and I plan to install it next weekend. However, it doesn't come with a cable, and the output is an 8p mini DIN connector.

 - There are two options for SCART cables on their website, but the cheaper one looks pretty odd.
 - I know some people have used the SNES/N64 output connector, which I already have a suitable SCART cable for. However, it doesn't look as clean in the back, and I don't think I will be able to cut a square hole as easily as a round one.
 - Retro_Console_Accessories on ebay sells them, but sold out today! Right now, this is probably my preferred choice.

Have you gone through this before? Are there other options?

[sirhcman]

genesis model 2 rgb cable is what i use for mine

[crazydean]

genesis model 2 rgb cable is what i use for mine

It looks similar, but the pins don't line up. It does fit the PC Engine controller, though.

[Groover]

My NES has the multi-out like the SNES. Maybe if your DIM is bigger than Genesis model 2 look at model one.

[crazydean]

My NES has the multi-out like the SNES. Maybe if your DIM is bigger than Genesis model 2 look at model one.

I assume you have the top loader. Mine is the front loader. It's not that it's too small, the pins simply aren't in the same place.

[Groover]

yeah Top Loader but more specific AV Famicom. It has a multi-out normally.

[GohanX]

The best option is probably to use the included connector and order the cable and DIN to scart adapter from Viletim. I don't use it on my NES, but I've got several consolized projects that the cable works with.

Using a Genesis RGB cable is a bad idea, a properly built one has resistors and capacitors which are needed for the Genesis but will not work well on anything else.

Alternatively, you could pick up a AV Famicom. The install is dead simple in that thing and it already has the multi out port, you just have to wire the RGB lines from the RGB kit to the correct connections on the underside of the motherboard. You can't even tell from the outside that it's modded.

[crazydean]

I didn't even think of the resistors in the Genesis cable. Thanks for pointing that out. Looks like I will just buy the weird SCART kit offered on the site. I would go for the AV Famicom but they are quite expensive now, around $100 on ebay, and it's not like one is going to pop up locally. I got my front loader about two years ago for $15 locally.

[mickcris]

i know this is a bit late, but retrofixes took over selling the 3d printed multi out connectors from Helder

http://store.retrofixes.com/products/nes-toploader-frontloader-snes-style-multi-a-v-socket-upgrade?variant=28188326791

i know you said you didn't want to use a multiout, but not sure if knew about this one.  it looks a lot better than removing a connector from an n64 or snes and using it.

[PunkCryborg]

The multi out is definitely the way to go. The DIN plug isn't a very tight connection and it is a pain to attach. Get the multi out and cut a whole with a dremel then use a file to square it off. You can make a template if that helps

[DeshDildo]

I don't have much to add other than I also like the multi-out connector (specifically the ones like mickcris posted).  I have done 2 for my friends this way on front loaders.  The problem is locating it so it doesn't look stupid.  The middle screw post in the back makes it a bit of a tight fit if you try and keep it close to the RF module.

My personal unit is used on my Trinitron so I have no need to upscale.  When I originally built it I also added a component amp but then also tested using straight s-video out (which the RGB board supports).  I actually found almost no difference in picture quality on the TV I use other than the component amp wasn't built for my specific application and the colors seemed a bit off.  I ended up just axing the component and use straight S-video to my CRT.

[crazydean]

I decided to get one off Retro_Console_Accessories with the mini DIN. I like the idea of the multi-out, but I haven't seen a picture of one that looked good enough to me. Also, wouldn't the multi-out have the audio which supposedly creates noise on the video? Or, do you still have to route the audio through the 3.5mm jack?

Also, where did you guys put the palette switch? I saw one where a guy put his underneath in the little rut on the bottom.

[DeshDildo]

I decided to get one off Retro_Console_Accessories with the mini DIN. I like the idea of the multi-out, but I haven't seen a picture of one that looked good enough to me. Also, wouldn't the multi-out have the audio which supposedly creates noise on the video? Or, do you still have to route the audio through the 3.5mm jack?

Also, where did you guys put the palette switch? I saw one where a guy put his underneath in the little rut on the bottom.

Switch and hookup locations found in the photo below.  I gutted the RF box and use an externally regulated 5V power supply.

[crazydean]

Switch and hookup locations found in the photo below.  I gutted the RF box and use an externally regulated 5V power supply.

Ya, that's awesome. I just don't have the balls to go gutting anything. I'd be afraid of cutting something out that's important.

[crazydean]

Well, it's nearly complete. I only have to cut a hole for the palette switch. I'll have some pictures up when I finish later this week. The mod has been enjoyable to do, but it did take longer than i expected.

Desh, where did you put the audio out? Did you just leave it mono on the side or use the composite video on the side as a left side out?

[DeshDildo]

Well, it's nearly complete. I only have to cut a hole for the palette switch. I'll have some pictures up when I finish later this week. The mod has been enjoyable to do, but it did take longer than i expected.

Desh, where did you put the audio out? Did you just leave it mono on the side or use the composite video on the side as a left side out?

When I gutted the RF box I removed the original jacks and now the left and right audio outputs go out there (you can see the gold plated ones in the picture).  The RGB board has a decent sound amp on it so I just ran the mono output to both sides.  I actually plan to go back and do the "stereo" mod.  Many people don't like it but I had it in my last NES and spent a lot of time dialing it in with a couple 1k ohlm pots.  I personally loved how it sounded with my cheapo surround sound setup in my game room so I want to install it again.

If you're fine with mono the stock audio will still work fine.  If you want the amped audio from the RGB board, I would just cut the trace going to the original mono jack and wire it directly to the RGB board's audio out.  You should be able to get to it by removing the bottom cover of the RF box which is easy peazy.  Your other option, if you want double mono, would be to use a headphone jack (I think the RGB kit comes with one, at least they used to) and you could hide it in an inconspicuous location.  Maybe even in the bottom of the case somewhere and then run the audio cable underneath in one of the channels that intersect into the expansion port.

EDIT: I found a picture of my board when it was all wired up if you want to see how I used the gutted RF box as a mounting point.

[crazydean]

That's pretty cool. I already mounted the double mono headphone jack because that is what the directions said. I may go back and make it full stereo in the future when I get some decent speakers.

I played it for about an hour with the top off today and I noticed that the old voltage regulator is getting pretty hot. The new one is wired up too and it doesn't get that hot. Should I removed the stock one completely?

[DeshDildo]

That's pretty cool. I already mounted the double mono headphone jack because that is what the directions said. I may go back and make it full stereo in the future when I get some decent speakers.

I played it for about an hour with the top off today and I noticed that the old voltage regulator is getting pretty hot. The new one is wired up too and it doesn't get that hot. Should I removed the stock one completely?

I wouldn't.  If I remember right the voltage regulator that comes with the kit is wired inline with the original 7805 and is only supply a safe, steady  5V to the RGB board itself (I would have to look at the installation guide again to know for sure).  Just remember that the stock regualtor does get pretty hot on it's own (that's why they have a little heat sink on it).  Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to to replace the original 7805 anyways as it's old and new ones are inexpensive.  Cheap insurance in my opinion.  Also, if you think it's a lot hotter than it should be, check the input voltage.  It should be like 10-12 VDC somewhere in that range.  If it's high check your power supply (but remember it's volts AC) and see what it's putting out.

[crazydean]

I am actually using a Genny 1 PS. However it is rated at 850mA and 13V, I think. I will check that out later tonight when I get home though, thanks.

[crazydean]

Alright, so it's all together and as promised, I have some pictures. I actually did a partial gut, but left the voltage regulator stuff alone. To hold the headphone jack in place, I soldered a very thin washer from a guitar potentiometer onto the plate. The potentiometer's hole was small enough to get the headphone jack through and clamped on. The DIN actually had to be epoxy'd in. The reason I chose to mount everything to the motherboard and not the case is that this is easier to take apart, should I need to in the future.



The hole had to be cut out by a small amount for the DIN to fit, but you can hardly tell. The headphone jack fits perfectly.




If you're wondering about where I mounted the switch, it's on the front, somewhere...


Here!


The switch fits quite well, and I'm very happy with the placement. You can easily get the cartridge in and out, and it remains hidden when you close the door.

[DeshDildo]

Nice job!  Pretty cool idea on the palette switch placement.