Duo RGB to Component v2.0 Chip Help

Slypty · 04/03/2017, 01:25 PM

I'm using the v2.0 Chip from T16PCEMods website, I did most of the install this afternoon. I'm running in to a few problems. On the Hu6260 Chip, I soldered the Component wires and Sync to the right spots, but between pin 46 and 47 (wire goes to 47) I get a resistance of 10 Ohms, same amount between 48 & 49. I'd assume that if I had soldered the pins together I would get 0 resistance, but 10 Ohms still seems like its too low. Is the 10 Ohms a problem or have I done it right?

The other issue is that this chip needs Ground and 5V on both the input and output sides of the Chip. Is it OK to use the same places for 5V and Ground? I'm using pin 38 for 5V, but is doubling up with two wires OK for both connection points on the Chip? As well, is the same technique OK for ground? Thanks

Slypty · 04/04/2017, 04:34 PM

*Twiddles Thumbs*

...

Slypty · 04/04/2017, 11:09 PM

Maybe this question is too abstract. It might be daunting to think each board chip has the same resistance between different pins, I'm just really hoping to see if I should rewire the job and hope for different results. I don't want to plug it in and short everything! Nervous itches are swelling..

MNKyDeth · 04/04/2017, 11:38 PM

The ground and 5v you only need to use one side or the other, not both.

As for resistance I don't have a machine open at the moment to test. If your meter has a continuity test option on it you can see if you bridged anything that way.

Slypty · 04/05/2017, 05:03 PM

Thanks, so I made sure I only had one connection to ground and 5V on the RGB to Component Chip. I also checked the Hu6260 Chip and it re-wired my connections, I did a cleaner job the second time round.

Unfortunately I get no output signal whatsoever. I'm wondering if I would have ruined the chip by having doubled up on the 5V and Ground, because I turned it On when it was like that. Also if there was continuity between the legs on the Hu6260 Chip while I plugged it in, could that have shorted the Chip?

Keith Courage · 04/05/2017, 05:31 PM

There would be no harm done by having 5V and ground wired up on each side of the chip.

Yes, the Hu6260 can be harmed by turning the system on if some of the pins are soldered together. Depends on which ones though.

Also, what kind of TV are you testing this with? The component for these systems puts out a 240P signal. Not all TVs are compatible with this. To test if your TV is compatible simply plug the Yellow composite cable from your DUO into the green component port on your TV. If you get a black and white image then your TV is compatible. If you don't see any picture then it will not work.

Slypty · 04/08/2017, 12:14 PM

So I took the Duo to my repair expert, and we confirmed that the Chip wasn't fried. Simply reconnecting the original cable proved that, after removing the mod.

Unfortunately, after re-installing the mod, even by an expert technician I am still getting no RGB Output. A little info on what type of stuff I'm using:
For the pinout, I cut out an 8-Din from a dead Neo Geo Board. It has the same connections as a Duo 5-Din, with the 3 extra Pins at the back can be lifted for RGB purposes.
- I used the Pinout available at https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/pc-engine-pce-duo-turbografx-16-nec-core-grafx-rgb-scart-video-av-cable

I wanted to use the SCART cable with 8-Din. So far, I just cut and re-pinned an 8-din connector from an XBOX Component Cable. It's a solid build and don't think it's the problem.

The mod is being done on a Japan Duo. I am using Pin 38 for the Hu Card Slot as my 5V, and the shield from the controller input as ground. No idea what is going wrong at this point, my technician did the solder job this time on the Hu6260, I don't think we caused any continuity. I'll upload pics in a bit. I did confirm that my TV outputs 240p with my A/V Modded Famicom.

Yup, I've checked the comp

Slypty · 04/08/2017, 01:58 PM

Do all component cables support 240p? Really can't figure out what else could be going wrong

Slypty · 04/21/2017, 02:50 PM

I actually re-did this RGB mod again.. after testing these issues:

- Any problem with the RGB Cable to 8 Din connection: No, I tested it using the normal 5 Din layout and the Cable would boot fine. TV I'm using supports 240p.
- I re-did the mod this time, and it was done about the best I could hope for, solid connection points, no bridging, and triple checked everythign... STILL NO OUTPUT!
- I'm at a loss here, should I just ask The Steve if I can return this product? I don't doubt it's a good product, but I also don't think I'm at fault on this one.

MNKyDeth · 04/21/2017, 03:17 PM

I just reread this thread.

Are you using an RGB scart cable with the component chip? This might be the problem if so.

This is component not an RGB MOD chip.

If using a custom hand made component cable make sure you have the ground connected properly otherwise you also will not get a picture.

Slypty · 04/21/2017, 07:23 PM

I'm using a component cable, ground is wired right. For the chip to ground I took it from the base of the earphone jack, and for my second attempt I used the screw on the shield (I looped the ground wire around the screw that the Hu Card Shield uses.)

Considering I've tried the component cable using just the regular pinout and it worked fine, I don't think ground is a problem on the component cable. Thanks for the help

thesteve · 04/24/2017, 01:29 PM

OK start checking voltages on the component board
Check the 4 inputs and 3 outputs as well as power and ground

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thesteve · 04/24/2017, 01:31 PM

Check the cable continuity for ground and each Jack to the board

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thesteve · 04/24/2017, 01:34 PM

I also use that pinout, but remember Y is green Jack, Pr/Cr red and Pb/Cb/ blue
You should have direct continuity from Jack to mod

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Slypty · 05/09/2017, 10:54 AM

I ended up selling that Duo and getting another. I completely ghosted the first Duo with a terrible retro brighting job.. too much hydrogen peroxide under a strong bulb and result is like watching milk drip down some areas of the Duo. It is now a cow.

I"ll try again with this Duo, it's possible I mixed up the connections so I'll let you know how this one turns out.

thesteve · 05/16/2017, 04:18 PM

just reread the post
the component side of the mod is output, as it takes RGB input
if connected right the duo will have about 4.8V on the RGB pins
that board is fairly self stable, so any input should give you an output

Slypty · 10/19/2018, 10:19 AM

Quote from: thesteve on 04/24/2017, 01:34 PMI also use that pinout, but remember Y is green Jack, Pr/Cr red and Pb/Cb/ blue
You should have direct continuity from Jack to mod

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Old post but needed to revive, put away the RGB to Component V2 until now. I've wanted to have my own IFU-30 with RGB to Component for a while, so I pulled out the V2 board I put away and re-installed everything, according to the online tutorial.

Anyways, everything checks out but I'm still getting nothing on screen. Checked 5V and ground pads, continuity for each component connection. I got a higher tolerance on the continuity from Pb/Cb, reading above 1ohm most of the time. Anyways, my TV has two component inputs. One of them will display the IFU-30 with yellow (standard composite) in the Y input as full color, whereas the other input will show black and white. So, I am using the black and white component inputs since I'd believe it supports 240p.

Maybe to check this chip, finding out what resistance I'm supposed to be getting across the V2 chip will help? For instance, I get about 10.12MOhms from the RGB Green side to the Y Component side. From RGB Red and Blue, I see absolutely no connection which has me a bit worried. Any thoughts?

Sorta at a loss at this point,

Slypty · 10/19/2018, 10:27 AM

Quote from: thesteve on 05/16/2017, 04:18 PMjust reread the post
the component side of the mod is output, as it takes RGB input
if connected right the duo will have about 4.8V on the RGB pins
that board is fairly self stable, so any input should give you an output

I just tested the RGB side (inputs) and getting 4.3V for R,G,B and about 5V for CSync, a little over 5V for the 5V tab.

Slypty · 10/19/2018, 10:41 AM

Quote from: MNKyDeth on 04/04/2017, 11:38 PMThe ground and 5v you only need to use one side or the other, not both.

Well, problem finally solved. You DO need to Ground the Component side, but with the Component Cables ground. Probably silly of me to overlook this but ya, it works now as long as the component cables ground wire is also grounded to the V2 chip