Can anyone help me with this borrowed GameOfYou flashcard?

[Arkhan Asylum]

Anyone want to mail me their GameOfYou flashcard to use for this convention on the 8th of December?

My NeoFlash is being a real bag of dicks lately and I'm tired of waiting for it to write properly in Windows.

I just need to throw Atlantean on it, use it for a day, and then send it back!

[roflmao]

PM Sent.

[Lochlan]

Dude, get an Everdrive!

[Arkhan Asylum]

Dude, get an Everdrive!

That crap is like 90000$.   I just need something quick and useful to demo Atlantean.

[Arkhan Asylum]

Got it, but having no luck getting Atlantean to fire up on it.   I just get a white screen.

Sometimes a purple, sometimes a blue.

What'd I fuck up?

I tried using the software's header remover, and also checked the flip bits box because this is being done on a duo-r, no dice.

[thesteve]

It's your Rom, you should know if it has a header
The card works perfect with any non mapped headerless Rom
Try with and without the swap checked 2

[Arkhan Asylum]

It's your Rom, you should know if it has a header
The card works perfect with any non mapped headerless Rom
Try with and without the swap checked 2

I think it got broken in the mail, because it was sent in a regular envelope.

The ROMs I tried were all headerless and padded.  I also tried non-padded.  And data bits flipped both ways.


Though, Roflmao mentioned that you have to hold it properly for it to erase the ROM on there for it to write a new one.

It's possible that's the problem, but OldMan's got it right now to see if it got gimped on the way here.

[OldMan]

Round 1: Tried known good rom file. stripped the header (it wasn't even multiple of 8K).
Sent to card : No indication that the card was erasing the rom, but the download reported ok.
Tried on both US and JP systems, no dice. Solid color screen is all.
Flipped bit in software, downloaded again. Still no erase indication, download reported ok.
Still a solid color screen.

If you think about it, one of those 4 combinations should have worked (in fact 2 of them should)
Sadly, none of them did, leading me to believe the rom never got written.

Round 2: I tried a different usb cable. Still no luck. Same operation: No indication of flash being erased, download reports okay, game still gives solid color screen on both systems.

Strangely though, while poking across the docs on the protocol, I noted it says the baud rate has to be 256,000. The virtual Com port installed was set at 9600 - and on the advanced tab, there is no 256,000 rate listed. (Win 7 pc). Makes me wonder if that's the problem

Somewhere here I have an xp box. Hopefully it has sp3 on it; if so, I'll try the card there.
More to come....

[Arkhan Asylum]

Roflmao claims that if you hold it in your hand just right, it will say that it's erasing, lol.


Maybe do a rain dance, also.


I recall some stuff like this when using serial for Apple II transfers, and you can edit the baud rate through one of the settings.   That'd be comical if that's the issue.

[gameofyou]

If the erase procedure is not occurring (should take approx 5 seconds...led on card will be OFF, and PC will say "please wait, erasing flash), then most likely it is a solder connection has failed on one of the address or data lines.  It could also be that a via has failed (opened), but this is less likely.
 
Reflowing the solder on the flash chip and micro controller chip will probably solve the problem.  Unfortunately, the pins are so tiny that it is difficult to do, unless you are skilled at surface mount soldering.
 
You can try placing light pressure on the flash and micro controller with your fingers during the download.  This exta pressure might be enough to make the connection.
 
The card must be disconnected from the USB cable after each download attempt, though.
 
You only have to check the "flip bits" checkbox if you are playing the game on a JPN system.

[OldMan]

If the erase procedure is not occurring (should take approx 5 seconds...led on card will be OFF, and PC will say "please wait, erasing flash),

From connect, LED stays on. Starts blipping when download starts. Never see erase message, just goes right to download....

most likely it is a solder connection has failed on one of the address or data lines

Yeah, that's what I figured. Before I try re-flowing the solder,  I will check on an XP box, just to make sure it's not a com settings problem.
The next step after that is to try pressing on the chips, to see if any connections are loose. Hopefully, (if it works) that will tell me which chip needs re-flowed.

[ And for my information, what kind of soldering station did you end up getting? I'm thinking I'll need one to do these ABCards, since they eprom leads keep popping loose....]

You only have to check the "flip bits" checkbox if you are playing the game on a JPN system.

Debateable. There's 4 cases : 1) US Game on US System => no flip.  2) US Game on JP System => flip.  3) JP Game on US system => flip.  4) JP Game on JP system => no flip.
I've actually tried all 4 on a neo flash, set to us mode.  IIRC, case 3 fails because the jp system I'm using doesn't have the ground mod done.
I can confirm stripping the header and flipping the bits will make a 'stock' HuC .pce file work on a JP system; it's part of our test build for testing games via ABCards. Only recently got the JP system, so I still have to double (and triple) check that.


-In short- Stand by for more testing, roflmao. Maybe you'll get it fixed for free

[Arkhan Asylum]

My guess,still, is that the mailmangs broke it.

I popped it in my hardware here and Reflectron (which was on it upon arrival) did not boot.

[gameofyou]

The fact that the led is blinking, tells me that it is receiving USB data correctly, so there is no issue with the USB communication.

[OldMan]

The fact that the led is blinking, tells me that it is receiving USB data correctly, so there is no issue with the USB communication.

Round 2: Drug everything out and my xp box isn't sp3. Rather than mess around with actually upgrading it (It has several things I don't want borked by an upgrade), I went back to the win 7 box.
Binder clips on the chips for pressure didn't help, but....

If you put your finger (a broader pressure) on the flash chip, it says it's erasing the chip and lo and behold, it actually works (just finished playing MegaMan).  So we know it's not totally borked, it just needs the flash chip re-soldered.

ROFLMAO: I can give it a shot, or send it back, your call.  I will warn you I might screw it up if I try re-soldering the chip: My current setup has *no* temp control, and I've over-heated a few chips making the ABCards.  Let us know what you want to do.

GameOfYou: Seems wierd that it plays fine without pressure, but won't program without it. I would think that with the address and/or data lines loose, the game would glitch out somewhere.... Granted, MegaMan is only 512K, so it probably doesn't need/use all the address lines, whereas programming it would, but it still seems odd to me....
Something to do with the signals being unstable for high speed programming due to the poor contact?

[Arkhan Asylum]

So it does look like the mail trip probably gooned it up!

[gameofyou]

I'm glad you were able to get it working again, and there is no permanent damage!
 
When I build these boards, I just use a fine-tipped soldering iron.  But the secret is to use plenty of flux, so that the solder wants to suck to the pins.  It took me a while to get good at it.
 
In addition to the address/data lines, there is also a WRITE signal and BUSY signal which could have failed.  If it is either of these two signals, then it would still work fine in the PC-Engine.  This is my guess.
 
I have been planning to post the schematics on my web site for a while now, but haven't gotten around to it yet.  Probably, over the Christmas break I will have time to do this.

[roflmao]

The fact that the led is blinking, tells me that it is receiving USB data correctly, so there is no issue with the USB communication.

Round 2: Drug everything out and my xp box isn't sp3. Rather than mess around with actually upgrading it (It has several things I don't want borked by an upgrade), I went back to the win 7 box.
Binder clips on the chips for pressure didn't help, but....

If you put your finger (a broader pressure) on the flash chip, it says it's erasing the chip and lo and behold, it actually works (just finished playing MegaMan).  So we know it's not totally borked, it just needs the flash chip re-soldered.

ROFLMAO: I can give it a shot, or send it back, your call.  I will warn you I might screw it up if I try re-soldering the chip: My current setup has *no* temp control, and I've over-heated a few chips making the ABCards.  Let us know what you want to do.

GameOfYou: Seems wierd that it plays fine without pressure, but won't program without it. I would think that with the address and/or data lines loose, the game would glitch out somewhere.... Granted, MegaMan is only 512K, so it probably doesn't need/use all the address lines, whereas programming it would, but it still seems odd to me....
Something to do with the signals being unstable for high speed programming due to the poor contact?

You can just send it back.  I'd rather have a somewhat working flashcard than a non-working one.   Should I PM you my shipping address?

Thanks for taking a look at it.

[OldMan]

I'm glad you were able to get it working again, and there is no permanent damage!

Me too. I hate trying to solder those small pins...

I have been planning to post the schematics on my web site for a while now, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

I thought I had the board layout saved, but don't know where it is. I know its here (pcenginefx) somewhere, just have to search for it.

You can just send it back.

KK. Will go out this weekend. PM address, or I can ask arkhan if he's still got it.
Better yet, make sure. PM Me.
Anything in particular you want on it when I send it back? Otherwise, it gets sent with a us copy of tom's contra port

So it does look like the mail trip probably gooned it up!

I'm thinking not. Seems like problem only got worse with it being sent through the mail.

EDIT:
GameOfYou: Did arkhan ask about another run of these? I know he wants one, and so do I. Anyone else out there want to join in?  (I know, you'll make them after the holidays are over and things settle down

[roflmao]

PM sent!

[gameofyou]

I made a small batch over the weekend, so there currently are some available to purchase thru my website.

[Arkhan Asylum]

Snagged two.

Going to turn that NeoFlash into dust and snort it once this one comes.

[gameofyou]

ROFLMAO: I can give it a shot, or send it back, your call.  I will warn you I might screw it up if I try re-soldering the chip: My current setup has *no* temp control, and I've over-heated a few chips making the ABCards.  Let us know what you want to do.

I don't know anything about the ABCards that you are building, but I will share something that I recently got burned by.  The PCBs I order are a standard thickness of .093", which is a good fit for the PC-Engine connector.  However, apparently a lot of PCB manufacturers have a thickness tolerance of +- 10%.  This is a huge variation, & I actually have some PCBs that are so thick they won't even fit in the PC-Engine.
 
Just something to be aware of....
 
My short -term solution will be to sand a few thousandths of an inch from the thick ones.

[OldMan]

We're using standard .03" boards (I think that's the thickness) with an ABS printed carrier. The printer is good to 0.3mm (0.01"), but abs is pretty easy to sand down, if we need to.

The main problem is the thin boards want to flex and crack the solder joints. Anything with not enough solder tends to pop apart (especially the data lines, being in the middle of the connector). And of course, you can't tell that until you have the board mounted - with the chip facing down - and by then it's too late   Still looking for a way to get better joints than a R/S 30 Watt soldering iron....
But I've got time. Arkhan has to optimize atlantean yet

Good luck with sanding the boards down. I'd hate to ruin a bunch by sanding off the traces accidentally My best suggestion would be to bevel the outside long edges. But you have a trace running pretty close to the side, so....might work, might not.

BTW, if you're interested in helping with building the ABCard, version 3, let us know. We need someone who understands programmable circuits for that version

[gameofyou]

Luckily, there are no traces routed underneath the edge card connectors, so I should be able to sand that area down a little without damaging any traces.
 
If I had the time I would definately help out with your cards.  I am having a hard time keeping up with my own projects, unfortunately.  Lol.

[OldMan]

kk. Was worth a try. If you get time free, and are looking for something to do, keep us in mind.
In the meantime, can you recommend a good read on what the different programmable logic chips can/can't do?

[roflmao]

Quick update:  I got the flashcard back a few days ago and it works fine for me.  I don't have to press on any of the chips.  I just hold it in my hand like I've always done (and I notified Ark of that when I shipped it to him).

Sorry it gave you such a hard time, Ark. Maybe it's a Christmas miracle!

[Arkhan Asylum]

I tried holding it in my hand and sacrificing sheep to the OBEY gods.  It didn't like me.  lol.

The one I ordered works fine though!   

I still owe you a poster for helping out though.