New Twist on Plastic whitening agent on the cheap

[HercTNT]

Ok, this has been discussed many times before. The new twist is this version is cheaper, does not require nearly as harsh peroxide (great for those with kids and pets who are worried), and does not seem to need sunlight for results. I was watching mythbusters and they mentioned making a cleaning solution out of 3% peroxide, baking soda, and dish soap. All three can be had at a dollar store for, well $3. The baking soda and chemicals in dish soap combine with the peroxide to produce a ton of oxygen bubbles. I put whatever i want to bleach in a container (metal pan from dollar store works great), put in the solution (specific amounts does not seem to matter), and then put it under a flourescent light. I get results in one hour.
However, there is one huge drawback. It only works with mildly yellowed items. I have bleached two controllers, and my duo so far and all three came out yellow free in one hour. I tried the same solution on a heavily yellowed gameboy and it had no effect. If you have anything that is beginning to yellow, and you wanna bleach it on the cheap, you can't go wrong with this method. will work all year round and get fast results. otherwise, I believe it was Arkhan in another thread that pointed out a much better method for heavily yellowed items.

You will need:
baking soda $1
3% peroxide $1
dish soap $1
Metal reflector utility light $2
Compact flourescent bulb $3

I bought all but the metal reflector enclosure at the dollar store. Got the reflector at walmart next door. $8 is cheap money to whiten stuff up

Hope this helps anyone.  And don't ask for pictures, my camera is shit, i can tell you that it definately works. heavier peroxide would no doubt have better results on more yellowed items. the baking soda seems to remove the need for direct sunlight making this a year round solution.

[Frank_fjs]

Interesting idea re the baking soda, will have to give this a try.

I also want to experiment with bleach powder too, will let you know how that goes.

[csgx1]

Thanks for posting this.  I've been meaning to trying some whitening techniques on my stuff.  I got all the ingredients at home already for this recipe.  

I've got a Super Grafx that has a brownish tint to it.  Has anyone tried any whitening agents on the darker plastic like the Super Grafx or Core Grafx I with any success?

[tpivette]

I am going to try this method in the next few days, as I have a controller that is in the beginning stages of yellowing. And while my Duo R isn't yellow at all, its not blindingly white and I'd like it to be. Hoping for good results

[HercTNT]

for all of you that try this, please post your results. i'm curious to know how well it works for you.

[Game-Tech.US]

I've got a Super Grafx that has a brownish tint to it.  Has anyone tried any whitening agents on the darker plastic like the Super Grafx or Core Grafx I with any success?

Yeah I have done several grey plastic 'reset' buttons from the nes top loader and usually don't get good results, they end up de-yellowed, but no longer a nice grey but kinda faded or bleached.
Results on a SGX may be different, but i'm not sure I would risk it...

[turboswimbz]

As I am currently writing and researching plastics from my grad degree, I'll point this out:  because of the chemistry of plastics, whiting and bleaches will have little effect on the plastic coloring, it may improve it some, but it will not make the product shiny white or grey again. In fact, nothing that I know of will really truly reverse the process,  or stop it, Although from what I've seen the peroxide method does work to fair enough degree.   

I'll continue to try to research this as a side project.  I have some ideas on how you might be able to get that duo-r or snes back to it's original color!

Also if there is enough call for it I'll make a thread with some of the chemistry.
 

[HercTNT]

As I am currently writing and researching plastics from my grad degree, I'll point this out:  because of the chemistry of plastics, whiting and bleaches will have little effect on the plastic coloring, it may improve it some, but it will not make the product shiny white or grey again. In fact, nothing that I know of will really truly reverse the process,  or stop it, Although from what I've seen the peroxide method does work to fair enough degree.   

I'll continue to try to research this as a side project.  I have some ideas on how you might be able to get that duo-r or snes back to it's original color!

Also if there is enough call for it I'll make a thread with some of the chemistry.
 
 

http://www.retroist.com/2009/07/29/clean-up-those-old-computers-with-retrobright/

reconsider your research, this page alone will call BS on your point. food for thought

[turboswimbz]

As I am currently writing and researching plastics from my grad degree, I'll point this out:  because of the chemistry of plastics, whiting and bleaches will have little effect on the plastic coloring, it may improve it some, but it will not make the product shiny white or grey again. In fact, nothing that I know of will really truly reverse the process,  or stop it, Although from what I've seen the peroxide method does work to fair enough degree.  



I'll continue to try to research this as a side project.  I have some ideas on how you might be able to get that duo-r or snes back to it's original color!

Also if there is enough call for it I'll make a thread with some of the chemistry.
  

http://www.retroist.com/2009/07/29/clean-up-those-old-computers-with-retrobright/

reconsider your research, this page alone will call BS on your point. food for thought

short answer:

Fair enough as written your right  -> there is a process that will "reverse" the colorization. and I did mis phrase quite a bit... the process I'm working on would be in addition to retr0bright, possibly in place of it, (and therefore the peroxide and need for UV light)as part of my research involves plastics in the soil and oceans which are not in contact with UV.  although I'm not sure it'd be a home solution just yet.  I'm sorry if anyone took it to mean that retr0bright does not exist or does not work.  also my last sentence should have had the qualifier (without the issues of peroxide / brittleness?)

Long Answer:

Actually your link reinforces my point. I'm well aware of Merlin and Retr0bright. Retro0bright is genius, let me rephrase, Bleach and off the shelf whiting products will not completely reverse the yellowing process, (unless you have proof to the contrary, but your link proves otherwise) acetone and magic erasers ect. may actual damage the systems. The hydrogen peroxide alone as this is what the thread is discussing here (or did i get that wrong) will work only to a degree. (also proven in the link)
It will only work to bring back the color with the "oxy" additive and UV light. In many cases this will bring it back to the original color, however I've hear some users say that the color never fully comes back (although I admit these results may be the result of user error, and very well may be the case) , and I've also heard reports it will brittle the plastic.  also many people don't like working with this strength of peroxide. regardless it will not prevent future decay. (I've never heard anyone claim they have a good way of preventing this all together)  This is why a said "fully reverse the process" I should have made that more clear.  I am not reinventing the wheel, just adding to it. I see some room for improvement on the current method.  I'm not saying retr0bright doesn't work as stated, I'm just saying it doesn't stop the process altogether,  I'm currently researching the degradation of plastics (and related processes), and much of the stuff I'm doing, very well have an application on these yellowed plastics.

[HercTNT]

you need to read deeper. in these forums alone people have used peroxide all the time and never had a problem with damaging the plastic. bleach is another story and that is probably what your thinking off. IF you read the retrobrighrt website you would know that the yellowing is caused by the bromide in the plastic that is added as a fire retardant. all the retrobright and other solutions do is bleach out the bromide to restore the plastics color. You will find that when done properly almost everyone gets the original color back. Eventually most the bromide leaches out of the plastic and the yellowing slows down or stops all together. please read deeper into other peoples results before you make unqualified statements. studying it does not equate to understanding it.

[SignOfZeta]

Retr0Bright worked really well for me...but then my IFU setup re-yellowed rather quicky. It took about a year to get about 3/4 as yellow as it was before. A pretty big disappointment.

[HercTNT]

this new solution with peroxide and baking soda may reverese that to some degree. i can't promise anything as it needs more testing. for me lightly yellowed stuff turned out great. maybe a 20% peroxide with baking soda might help more. if you ever try it again let me know. we definatly need more feedback on this.

[turboswimbz]

I know bromide is the issue. I never said it wasn't.  And you were right I should have read deeper before saying that the color won't come back, or that it will cause brittleness, however I did say that it may very well be due to user error, and as i read more as you well know it seems that this in fact user error (not enough time, wrong procedure ect.). I'm still reading up on this, but this is not exactly easy as there is no "paper" i can refer to and most of the science work done was done in private, by voulenteers ect. I will reread the issue, thank you for pointing out the bromide leaching out w/ multiple uses, (I clearly missed this and I see why you said my comment regarding stopping the coloration was wrong) I have used the search function on the retr0bright site linked forum (there are some 200 pages on there) and a few other of the amiga forums  and plan on using it on our research in strengthening/bonding certain plastic compounds. I can't comment more at this time as I'm still reading on that.(this is actually fascinating) (and like i said some 200 pages)  I'm currently trying to contact merlin to get more of a "paper" look into the process, rates, decay, bromide compounds and oxidation, ect. The current process we are working on may skirt the peroxide issue. although admittedly this is a very small issue as with care and not spilling it, all will be fine. like i said this is a side project to remediation, in which we are looking for ways to bond to chemicals within the polymers that make up the plastics, yellowing is not a focus, and I never said I was expert in the area. 
   I have taken into account what you have shown me.  And I thank you deeply, And I'm sorry that I made the comments before I had fully looked into the issue in a complete and deep way, you are correct in ever way that I should have not done this, however i do not wish for this thread to become an argument thread or anything else other than possible alternatives to peroxide and quick fixes as intended.

[HercTNT]

thats fine and i admit its a new process that has many different results for different people. there does not seem to be one solution that works for everyone. I did not create this newer solution, i'm just adapting it to a different use than what was originally intended. i don't know what amounts of what ingrediants are most beneficial......etc. moving forward, if you want. do some expirements of your own and see what results you get. My hope is to created a compound or liquid that is as non toxic as possible, inexpensive, fast acting, and repeatable by the masses. the more people that get involved the better. good luck on your research. lets hope it helps everyone.

[turboswimbz]

Herc sent you a pm.  I was thinking along the same / non-toxic, cheap line: I just screwed it all up and didn't read from the beginning. Sorry everyone else!!!!

[esteban]

I like my PCE hardware to have a patina*.

Obsessing over "whiteness" is making me uncomfortable. Sounds eerily similar to the thread concerning the fellow who etched logos into plexiglass.



* Be it yellowed plastic or a layer of residue from custard, flan and/or yogurt.

[HercTNT]

I like my PCE hardware to have a patina*.

Obsessing over "whiteness" is making me uncomfortable. Sounds eerily similar to the thread concerning the fellow who etched logos into plexiglass.



* Be it yellowed plastic or a layer of residue from custard, flan and/or yogurt.

I have zero idea how you make that connection. i'm not looking for perfection either, but i prefer my stuff not to look like its covered in yellow tar.

[esteban]

I like my PCE hardware to have a patina*.

Obsessing over "whiteness" is making me uncomfortable. Sounds eerily similar to the thread concerning the fellow who etched logos into plexiglass.



* Be it yellowed plastic or a layer of residue from custard, flan and/or yogurt.

I have zero idea how you make that connection. i'm not looking for perfection either, but i prefer my stuff not to look like its covered in yellow tar.

Yellow tar! That's the perfect way to describe the patina on my electronics.


Seriously though, I was just trying to break the tension in this thread . I have found that mentioning flan/custard/yogurt in the same breath as ____________________ (insert controversial topic) can nurture some goodwill and tranquility. At the very least, it urges the combatants to take a break and grab a snack.

I remember when runinruder (hmmmmm...I think it was him) foolishly discounted the soundtrack to Dragon Spirit (PCE). I was so pissed off! Luckily, I grabbed a lassi (and onion bhaji) instead. I was too busy savoring my snacks to tell runin what a misguided twat of an imbecile he was--yes, I was prepared to use vulgar language. True story.

Also, I was trying to be cute (sorry) by putting this thread's trajectory in line with Godwin's Law.

I'll stop interfering now. I guess I was bored last night.

[HercTNT]

Turbo did not do his homework, and i was being alittle snippy, but nothing is out of control. He apologized to me for not doing alittle more legwork and  I apologized to him for being cranky. We worked it out just fine. I appreciate your effort to diffuse. I like a clean look on my console as do alot of people. Now that I know that Turbo is doing this for school research, I actually hope he has the time to mix and match alot of different formulas and help me figure this thing out. Help from others would be greatly appreciated as well. Being a parent of two kids and pets, i want something that is cheap, safe as possible, yet effective. I think we may be on to something here. I say we, as it will take a community effort to iron this thing down

[turboswimbz]

yep all is good. 

As a side note, I've researched the mixture from the first post here, turns out it is suggested using for a safe toxic free skunk smell remover.

[HercTNT]

yup, thats were i got the idea from. i was watching mythbusters and they were trying to remove skunk smell. it occured to me though that the forumula might work for whitening as well as they use baking soda for teeth whitening.

[esteban]

SKUNK --> PCE PURITY