Up&Down not Working on newly wired pad(missing a Resistor on MB need value)

Rosser · 03/15/2013, 10:52 PM

Hello all

I switched the cable from a regular black TG16 pad with an (apple I guess) 8 mini din cable so I can use it on a PCE I don't have a standard pad for the PCE so its difficult for me to troubleshoot/compare

as of right now Left/Right/II and start work fine

but:evil: up/down/I and (maybe select not sure if its used for the game)

does anyone know what I should try

Also all contacts on the pad are clean

turbokon · 03/16/2013, 12:17 AM

Check to see if you connect the right wires to the right pins on the controller pcb.

Rosser · 03/16/2013, 12:47 AM

Quote from: turbokon on 03/16/2013, 12:17 AMCheck to see if you connect the right wires to the right pins on the controller pcb.

I did I went through every connection a few times as it attaches to the 74LS157

Keith Courage · 03/16/2013, 12:06 PM

did you use a muti meter to check the pins? I always do that because some 8 pin didn cables have a different color order. Also, you can try connecting the cable wires directly to the 74 whatever chip and see if that makes a difference. I know that some of the original solder spots for the wires can go bad.

Rosser · 03/26/2013, 12:57 AM

I think I found the issue after rebuilding the TG16 pad to mini din 3 times

it seems it was the motherboard the whole time now I just need the value of the resistor if some godly individual could help I would appreciate its beside r165 on a white PC engine

Rosser · 03/26/2013, 03:14 AM

I was looking around online and from the pictures on line it looks like the that spot is ment to be empty...ugh oh well

So my next step will be to replace the built in resistors the controller I have does not have the resistor array but the glop top ones does anyone know the there value?

I've already replaced the 4 glop top 330's resistors that go to the 74 then to the cable so now I guess I will start with the others unless some else has any good ideas if worse case I guess I could remove the turbo switches and chip make super simple but that would kind suck

Keith Courage · 03/26/2013, 03:41 AM

You can bypass the resisters to test it out. It won't hurt anything. On the controller that is.

thesteve · 03/26/2013, 01:39 PM

it sounds like your missing a pin on the controller port
trace it to the huc6280

Rosser · 03/26/2013, 03:49 PM

Quote from: thesteve on 03/26/2013, 01:39 PMit sounds like your missing a pin on the controller port
trace it to the huc6280

thanks I'll look into that another question do the controller traces go to the expansion port then to the chip?

I ask because when I removed the rf board main board cracked a little when removing it and it could have damaged some of the traces directly under it. I thought I was in the clear because there were no issues with RGB/sound etc to the expansion since I pulled the signal from the expansion instead of directly from the chips

thesteve · 03/26/2013, 04:07 PM

im not sure on the path

Rosser · 03/26/2013, 06:48 PM

well it look like we have a winner it turns out one of the trace that runs directly under the Rf modulator was ever so slightly cracked so a little flux and some solder fixed it right up my poor TG16 pad went through hell rewired and wired again resistors switched around and it turns out it was the console the whole time.

If I had started with an actual pc-engine controller I'm sure I would had figured out rather fast but that how it goes.
Its weird how the controller traces go to the expansion then the chip. I guess it make sense though as NEC designed the system to have clean direct lines to the processors through the expansion

well thanks for everyone's input I appreciate it