RGB to Component mod using a BA7230LS encoder board design

[DarkOnus]

Hello everyone,
   I know there is a mod thread discussing a universal RGB to component mod design using member thesteve's schematic designs and basic parts here, but I'm wondering if anyone else here has tried using the SEGA-16 forum member Ace's board design, which utilizes a BA7230LS encoder IC, for their TG-16 consoles, and would like to specifically discuss that design here in more detail?

I searched and there didn't seem to be a specific thread discussing it yet, and I didn't think it would have been a good idea for me to try to discuss this design within the other thread discussing thesteve's design.

If you read my introduction thread here, Hello, and Happy New Year!, it's one reason I joined the forum since I already have several of those boards, to hopefully find answers and possibly help with my quest for improving quality while connecting my TG-16 consoles to my large screen HD TV using that BA7230LS board.

This was Ace's v5.0 schematic which the boards I am using have been designed to utilize:


These were the boards I initially purchased to populate and test this RGB to component connection, designed by member Helder using Ace's schematics:



Regards,
 ~ Craig ~

[DarkOnus]

Being new here I'm not familiar on how active the membership is on a daily or weekly basis, and I see there's been a few thread views since I started it 5 days ago, but unfortunately no-one yet interested enough to comment, bummer . . . but seeing that this particular setup hasn't already been discussed here much at all previously, I was prepared that I might not get much help, if any, though I was hoping I'd get lucky and find some. 

In the meantime, to continue . . .  after receiving the boards and parts, I went ahead and hastily put one together just so I could do some testing. Unfortunately, when connected using the component output, the sync which was being stripped from the composite video signal input and mixed back into the Y channel was so far off I couldn't play anything at all. But that was my fault (I'll explain the mistakes later in detail), so after a little tweak on the initial setup (the image below shows the very long yellow sync wire I added), I was able to get the component out to work on my 73" Mitsubishi WD-73837 DLP TV. I was ecstatic, and impressed it was working so well!

Oh, and if smaller sized images or differently formatted ones are preferred, please let me know a better way to post them.

RGB to Component test setup 1:


The first mistake I made was purchasing the wrong size LM1881 sync stripper chips, as I didn't realize there were several sizes. I purchased LM1881M chips, and the board it seems were made to accept the larger LM1881N size. So in the image you can see the spider-like legs I used to solder the smaller chip to the board . . . I figure the smaller one would still work connected like this since I believe the chips are identical in all other aspects except size.

But when hooked up the original setup without adding that yellow sync wire pictured, and I didn't get sync . . .  I believed it was caused because I read one of two resistor requirements in line with the LM1881 chip incorrectly, one was listed as 680, a second as 680K . . .  I put 680 OHM resistors in both those positions, and I didn't have any 680K resistors to replace it. So instead, I just connected that long yellow wire directly from the SYNC output pin to the Y output pin.

After that sync wire was added, I immediately had a stable image, and pretty nice picture!

However, there are still some slight sync issues with some games (which seems to be typical for other mods and the same games as well), but usually for just brief moments or in certain areas, and mostly do not interfere with game play. Though I have only tried a handful of games, so I'm sure there will be more, and maybe some worse, than I've already come across.

I'll have to go back and find more and maybe I can get some photos of it, but one sure example is in the opening cut scenes in Neutopia where the lightening flash happens. Not sure anyone has gotten any component mod with 100% perfect sync on all games at all times, or if it's even possible, but I'd like to find out if there is anything I could try to possibly lessen the sync issues, even if they cannot be totally eliminated altogether.

Then there's definitely some color issues where I can hopefully find some tweaks to correct or lessen too, where some games are too dark, and colors are definitely not where they should be.

I realize taking photos of my large screen TV image while the game is running is not an ideal situation for someone else to view that image on their own monitor or TV and be able to accurately diagnose color issues, but not sure what can be done about that.

Here are a few images I had taken the first time I got the mod to work. I captured these on my cell phone, and because the TV screen is so large, the brightness of the image towards the upper or lower portions are darker than I was seeing them because of the change in viewing angle from where the camera was held and pictures taken. Pictures are also a little more blurry than what I was seeing at full size here on my screen too.

Galaga Composite :


Galaga Component :


Bonk Composite :


Bonk Component :

[Keith Courage]

have you tried using pin 44 off of the hu6260 for video sync?This is what is used for video sync with the other RGB to component video board. no sync stripper needed this way.

it's cool to see another possible component video board in the works. Never hurts to have more options

[DarkOnus]

have you tried using pin 44 off of the hu6260 for video sync?This is what is used for video sync with the other RGB to component video board. no sync stripper needed this way.

it's cool to see another possible component video board in the works. Never hurts to have more options

Thanks for the reply.

Just wondering, is there any real difference, besides signal length, from tapping the hu6280 sync pin 44 directly rather than what comes off the expansion port's C22 Sync pin?

If not any difference, then the follow-up question would be, do all or any of the mods tapping sync directly from the hu6280 actually have 100% perfect sync in all games, all the time?
 
I have not tried tapping directly into the hu6280 for sync. The main reason was that I wanted this to be a completely external add-on mod for the expansion port alone, without having to open and mod any console directly inside. Right now the board is not using the stripper, just the C22 Sync pin expansion port signal and has really good sync, just not perfect.

[Keith Courage]

oh okay, I didn't realize you were using the expansion Port. C-sync from there should be the same thing. It is 44 on the hu6260 chip.  I just find it odd that you would still need a sync stripper for it to work. Typically a sync stripper is only needed when using composite video for the sync signal.

[DarkOnus]

oh okay, I didn't realize you were using the expansion Port. C-sync from there should be the same thing. It is 44 on the hu6260 chip.  I just find it odd that you would still need a sync stripper for it to work. Typically a sync stripper is only needed when using composite video for the sync signal.

The schematics by ACE were to be able to accommodate a universal design and used on many devices, so that's why the LM1881 chips were part of it in case a system didn't have a separate sync signal to be used as input, one could strip it from the composite signal.

Now that I have learned a bit more from when I first looked into doing this mod, and knowing the TG-16 has a dedicated sync signal available from the port, I also agree with you that the stripper wouldn't necessarily be needed at all, so in another version using that same PCB setup, I just didn't populate the entire LM1881 side of the board, and tried several variations of connecting pin C22 straight to different points into the Y channel's line.

I also didn't know if there would be a difference in the sync signal stripped from the composite input and the expansion port's C22 sync pin, if they would work as well as each other, or maybe one signal would be better, so I was going to try the LM1881 and see how good the sync was . . . but without having the 680K resistors handy (still waiting for them to arrive), the stripper was doomed for failure I presume, so that's when I just decided to use the sync straight from pin C22 of the port.

I'd still like to see how the LM1881 stripped signal works with ACE's schematic designed Helder's boards anyway, without using C22 at all, and have a comparison for when I'm using sync from C22.

The things I didn't like about the design was that the board didn't have composite video out, or sound available through it, nor a way to mount the connectors I was hoping to use, so if I wanted to get everything, I had to run separate wires and add a way to mount everything in a single package . . . and that was getting a bit too sloppy for my liking. 

So I learned how to just create my own PCB board layouts, made a few designs, then had one of them made up in China and sent to me to test out. I realize it will have the same color and slight sync issues as before, but I'm still glad I did it. It has everything I wanted as far as audio and video, is a lot more tidy, and the connectors are integrated into the board and very sturdy for plugging in and out often.

Here are a few images of the boards I had made and currently using:

[Keith Courage]

You might need to introduce a capacitor in between the C-sync and the chip for a more stable picture if you find yourself having sync issues of any sort. Maybe you already have it set up that way. A little difficult to tell by following the traces on your board.

Nice looking boards. You sure made those fast!

[DarkOnus]

You might need to introduce a capacitor in between the C-sync and the chip for a more stable picture if you find yourself having sync issues of any sort. Maybe you already have it set up that way. A little difficult to tell by following the traces on your board.

Nice looking boards. You sure made those fast!

The sync-in follows the same path as the green/Y signal, because in this version of the board the sync trace goes directly to the first 75 OHM resistor where the green signal also first connects.

I have tried cutting the sync in connector pin, then used wire to connect the pin directly to several other points of the existing circuitry in this board. Even if I connect the sync directly to the final 62 OHM resistor where Y is finally output, I still seem to get the same stable video most the time, with the exact same occasional sync issues in some games as when it goes through the entire circuitry loop from the beginning as it was intended in this version.

[DarkOnus]

Can any of the forum mod gurus look at ACE's schematic I posted, and possibly offer some advice in what might be altered on this design to get a brighter image overall, for all color channels?

[Keith Courage]

not sure why no one else is commenting on your posts but wouldn't a more powerful transistor and or weaker resistor create a brighter image?

[DarkOnus]

not sure why no one else is commenting on your posts but wouldn't a more powerful transistor and or weaker resistor create a brighter image?

It's a bummer no-one else seems to have any experience with this board at all and can share some insight. Maybe the right people just haven't come across the thread yet, or worse, no-one else is really interested enough in it to offer any comments.

I'll just keep up doing this =>   . . .  and maybe I stumble into some improvements with complete guesses, because that's all I can do with my limited knowledge in this area.

Thanks for being the lone voice offering suggestions, though I wouldn't have a clue if changing the transistors would improve or worsen the quality of the current image or not, but the issue is I don't have too many options with replacing the transistors, since the 2SC945's in it already are all I have as far as extra transistor parts lying around.

I have a fair amount of varied OHM resistors which I could try, but which resistors to replace, and what OHMs to replace them with . . . assuming I have the right one(s) to swap at all?

[Keith Courage]

Are those 75 ohm resistors on the input lines for the RGB signal? try cutting them down to 50 ohm. Same could also be tested for the output resistors. if that's not enough brightness with one or the other cut then lower the value again. you might get a better difference in quality with changing the input vs output resistors so you might want to test them each separately.

I am actually confused as to why there are such high value resistors on the input lines at all. Maybe that has something to do with there being a sync stripper involved.

[DarkOnus]

Are those 75 ohm resistors on the input lines for the RGB signal? try cutting them down to 50 ohm. Same could also be tested for the output resistors. if that's not enough brightness with one or the other cut then lower the value again. you might get a better difference in quality with changing the input vs output resistors so you might want to test them each separately.

I am actually confused as to why there are such high value resistors on the input lines at all. Maybe that has something to do with there being a sync stripper involved.

Yes 75 ohm resistors on each input for the RGB, though I'm a little confused why using those 75 values for RGB would have anything to do with there being a sync stripper, because in ACE's design, it's only the sync signal that goes through the stripper, none of the RGB channels. Then again, I'm not 100% sure what any of this is really doing for the signals to make it all work, lol!

I'll try your suggestion on lowering the RGB input resistors to 50 ohm, though I'm wondering if using the 75's is done or needed to the RGB channels to prepare them for going into the BA7230LS chip?

[Keith Courage]

the only reason I'm saying to try smaller resistors for the input is because the PC engine has a very low RGB signal unless it is an amplified compared to other systems.

however, I'm only guessing at this point too since I haven't done anything with the schematic you're working with. Lower value resistors on the output should definitely make things brighter for sure but you'll have to try it out to see if the quality is still good because sometimes things can look washed out if the output resistors are too low. I'm just saying this based on what things I've tried with RGB amps in the past.  you may find that a 50ohm is too low and have to go with something in between like a 62ohm.

[DarkOnus]

Yes, I understand KC, and thanks for being the sole member here so far in trying to help me figure something out which might improve my experience with this setup, I appreciate it.

I set up a new board which should be a little easier for me to make changes in swapping resistors more quickly, and specifically use for testing. So hopefully this weekend I'll play around with the input resistors first, then play around with the output resistors to see what kind of results I can get.

The one thing I wish I had added in my own board design was a place for a resistor in between the Pb out and its inline 220uf capacitor, especially since there are resistors for both the Y and Pr out channels to manipulate their output in this design. I know with a little manipulation and extra effort I could add a resistor between the final capacitor and Pb out, but it won't be quite as easy as it will be with the Y and Pr channels that have the holes for a resistor in the board already.

The other thing I'm wondering is, if I added this 7314 RGB amp to create the board's RGB input from the expansion pins, rather than using the direct signals from it



 would that improve my odds of being able to produce a better image with the BA7230LS and this design? I guess I will try if playing with the resistors fails to get me the color and brightness I'm hoping I can get, especially since I already have all the parts to create that amp anyway.

[DarkOnus]

I was really curious how adding the 7314 RGB amp would affect this mod  . . . sooooo, rather then starting to play with swapping out the current resistor setups with different values to test the change in color and brightness, I decided to add the amp into the mix instead.

Still pulling all the same signals directly from the expansion port, I diverted the RGB signals into the amp, then back to the proper  Red,Green, Blue traces right at the first 75 ohm resistor. The result was either a straight black screen or a pulsing black / light blue screen, without ever seeing any amount of an actual game screen image.

I'm assuming the amp is actually working as it's supposed to, though I'm not sure how I could determine that, if anyone can offer suggestions to test the amp output, thanks. Though all I have is a typical multi-meter for testing purposes right now.

The only thing I thought I might try is swapping those first RGB 75 ohm resistors to something higher, thinking that the signal is too strong now for the BA7230LS chip to handle them after the amp.

[poponon]

hey darkonus where are you getting the boards? I'd like to get one. Have all these components

[DarkOnus]

hey darkonus where are you getting the boards? I'd like to get one. Have all these components

Are you referring to the purple Helder boards I originally used that only provide component output and the sync stripper, but have no composite video out and no audio out, or the boards I designed that have component out, with added composite video out and stereo sound, but no sync stripper?

You can purchase the purple Helder v5.0A boards at OSH Park here:
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/5OuzFB2j

If the link above doesn't work, try searching the site for "BA7230LS RGB to Component v5.0A"

You have to register an account with OSH Park to be able to order. Minimum order is 3 boards for around $15.50, plus shipping costs.

[poponon]

awesome thanks. ordered 3

[DarkOnus]

I guess you were referring to Helder's boards then, lol.

So what system are you going to use the board on poponon?

[poponon]

I have a spare white pc engine that my friend wanted to use but he only has a newer TV. Also I wanted to build a separate universal converter that is simply scart to component. or maybe scart>15pin din>component . was meaning to build ace's board a while back but fucked it up the first time . been wanting to do an electronics project too. i'll let you know how it works out

[DarkOnus]

For your white PC Engine, are you going to build the board for it using the LM1881 sync stripper to try to get sync?

In the beginning I mistakenly used a 680 ohm resistor instead of the correct 680K resistor for the sync stripper trace line (in the one location where 680K is designated on the board, not just 680) so I originally couldn't get any sync at all of course, but even after I replaced the 680 with a 680K resistor, the sync was really very poor anyway.

Maybe you will have better luck if you use the LM1881, and maybe I did something wrong for it not to work properly with my US TG-16 units (though I don't believe I did), but I didn't get pretty solid sync until after I started using the expansion port's Sync out pin only for sync.

This is the reason I took out the LM1881 sync stripper and all parts in that trace line and only use the Sync pin input now on my own boards.

Also, you may find that some games are just way too dark with the setup used as is for component out, and unless you can figure out an acceptable resistor configuration that will allow those darker games to be bright enough to play comfortably, without making most the other games look way too bright or washed out, it may be a good idea to have the composite video out as an option to use as well for those games instead. That's the reason I also added composite video in/out on my boards.

Here is one split screen shot of Dungeon Explorer, a game that was way too dark for me or my friends to be comfortable playing using component out using ACE/Helders board exact design, depending where in the game you are, the screens can even look darker than this tavern shot. Component on the left, and Composite on the right. Even though the image wasn't as sharp as using the component, for this game we switched to using composite out instead because it was brighter, colorful, and pretty good anyway.

[poponon]

DarkOnus, thanks for sharing all this information. Also thanks for mentioning composite, I'm not sure how that option escaped me lol. Just pull it off the expansion port.

I was just checking the Ace's thread on sega-16 and it sounds like people are running into similar issues in the last few pages of the thread. They were discussing a couple of fixes. I have some pots I could replace the resistors with to fiddle around with. They were also trying putting caps inline with the rgb input resistors. not sure why. I think he originally designed it to work with genesis rgb so it may be worthwhile to compare the pc engine signal to the genesis one.  I'll take a better look at my options once the boards get here and i can do some testing.

[DarkOnus]

poponon, are you going to install the board as an internal mod in your console, or are you making an expansion port plug in style mod like I have made with my boards?

[DarkOnus]

DarkOnus, thanks for sharing all this information. Also thanks for mentioning composite, I'm not sure how that option escaped me lol. Just pull it off the expansion port.

I was just checking the Ace's thread on sega-16 and it sounds like people are running into similar issues in the last few pages of the thread. They were discussing a couple of fixes. I have some pots I could replace the resistors with to fiddle around with. They were also trying putting caps inline with the rgb input resistors. not sure why. I think he originally designed it to work with genesis rgb so it may be worthwhile to compare the pc engine signal to the genesis one.  I'll take a better look at my options once the boards get here and i can do some testing.

I also read through the SEGA-16 threads on ACE's mod, as well as those same issues and possible attempts to correct them. I had a couple pots to try myself, but for me the pots seem to be really finicky and difficult to adjust accurately and individually for each channel. Just popping in various resistors for each channel was easier and more accurate for me to try, though I did not have enough various resistors to attempt to test and try dialing in better combinations until a week ago when I received a large varying resistor kit . . . unfortunately I have not had adequate time to start testing the different resistors yet.

I did join the SEGA-16 forum last November too when I was first interested in trying ACE's design, and even though my account was registered, it was only ever partially activated, so even though I could login, send PM messages to other members, I could never post, change areas of my profile and some other things.

I would have been reluctant to post there and try to discuss the mod in detail anyway because there were only ever a few brief mentions of these mods being used with the TG-16 already in the thread discussing the BA7230LS mod, and since my only interest was in the TG-16, and it's not an NEC forum, I'm sure most their SEGA loyal membership wouldn't be highly receptive to any long discussion in getting the mod to work better with a TG-16 system anyway.

I did send a PM to ACE directly asking just a few questions about the mod, and his advice if it would be OK to discuss the mod on their forum concerning its use with a TG-16 system, but I never received a response, so I just let it go. That's why I joined this forum, in hopes that others here might have tried the mod already and could start discussing it more, or maybe some members would show interest in wanting to also try it after this new discussion was opened about it, or at least would want to join in on a discussion about it if they might be able to offer some suggestions. Sadly, that doesn't seem to be the case so far, except for KC offering some possible tips, and you actually buying a Helder board to try the design yourself poponon.

So I am really anxious for you to get the boards and start your testing, and I hope you will share all your results and ongoing experience with your testing of it here in this thread with me!

I'm also still wondering, have you thought about whether you are going to internally mod your console using the boards, or make an expansion port plug-in like I have done?

~ Craig ~

PS: Oh, and if anyone was interested at all what-so-ever in trying a different board than Helder's boards on OSH Park, I have quite a few extra boards of the ones I specifically designed using ACE's schematic, they are the same as the green PCB one I posted pictures of earlier in the thread. Anyone can PM me if they need more pictures and details of the board, and if interested in trying one.

[DarkOnus]

Well, I thought there would be more interest in this mod here on the forum ,  but I it looks like I'm just about alone on this one, bummer. 

Guess I'll have to figure out things with pure trial and error. I just received some new 100 ohm pots the other day, and will use them to tweak the input and output signals for more testing. I tried using pots before, but had a difficult time adjusting the old ones to get consistent colors and brightness.

So far with the new 100 ohm pots I just got, I've had some success in getting the colors and brightness a little better and consistent by tweaking the 3 color channels on the input side with them. Need to try the output area next.

Still have no idea if trying other capacitors or transistors in place of some of the ones currently being used might help either. Though I would have no idea where to start in choosing replacements to test anyway.

I'm also going to change my board layout so there's space in the new boards for all three color channels on the input and output areas for using pots for adjustment too. Right now the space only fits resistors well in those areas. This way I can still use resistors if I want, but would have the room to still use pots instead.

[Eddiesamma]

Have you tried pull up resistors on the color channels before the i.c. ? Most rgb mods have the channels pulled up and then pulled down after the transistor/i.c.

[DarkOnus]

Have you tried pull up resistors on the color channels before the i.c. ? Most rgb mods have the channels pulled up and then pulled down after the transistor/i.c.

Sorry Eddiesamma, though I can get all the parts and put it all together any way someone directs me to, this is all new to me, so I'm not too familiar with reading/understanding schematics, the basic lingo, nor logic of how this mod works. I'm trying to learn as I go and would need advice in what exactly to do in a dumbed-down explanation to grasp what is needed.   

Is your suggestion of using pull up resistors before the IC, which I assume are the first three signal input area 75 ohm resistors in this current setup, mean that for each color channel the one end of its resistor should be connected to voltage rather than ground (as it is now)?

[poponon]

hey darkonus sorry to leave you hanging - i've recieved the boards and just haven't got around to trying building it yet. I've got some other projects i've been focusing on right now and haven't been obeying too much. trying to catch on up on my saturn backlog heh 

[Eddiesamma]

Exactly, remove the 75 ohm in and have like 1.5 k to voltage on the input or say 5k pots to test. Then have them tied to ground on the output. Also may need some decoupling caps after the pull up resistors. So it would be R--- 0.1uf--5.3mresistor--i.c.--(maybe 220uf cap)--75ohm--Pr.

[DarkOnus]

Exactly, remove the 75 ohm in and have like 1.5 k to voltage on the input or say 5k pots to test. Then have them tied to ground on the output. Also may need some decoupling caps after the pull up resistors. So it would be R--- 0.1uf--5.3mresistor--i.c.--(maybe 220uf cap)--75ohm--Pr.

Thanks for the advice Eddiesamma. Before your post here I had tried removing the 75 ohm resistors tied to ground on the input, and replaced them with 3.3k resistors tied to vcc, and I already got an improved component output without changing anything else on my board, which actually follow ACE's 5.0 schematics through to output.

My boards and ACE's schematic images are posted in my first post if you want to take a look.

So right now my boards with switching the current RGB traces with the one resistor to voltage modification to each goes more like this order ...
RGB in --- 3.3k resistor --- 1uf cap --- BA7230LS IC --- 2SC945 transistor --- 75 ohm resistor --- 220uf cap ---
then Y has an added 62 ohm resistor just before final output
Pr has an added 20 ohm resistor just before final output
Pb goes directly from the above last 220uf cap to output

I'm a little confused with your "R--- 0.1uf--5.3mresistor--i.c.--(maybe 220uf cap)--75ohm--Pr" trace.

It's a little more different than what ACE's schematics follow.

Would you replace the 1uf caps the current design shows to use before the IC, with .1uf caps you show to try?

What is the 5.3m resistor before the IC you you list, is that an added 5.3 million ohm resistor you want after the .1uf cap, but before the IC input for each color?

You don't show transistors at all in your trace, aren't they needed, or did you just forget to add them?

Also, in ACE's design, the pull down 75 ohm resistors are placed before running the output signals through the final 220uf caps, but you seem to show the pull down resistors placed after the 220uf caps.

And last, do you think I should skip the final 62 ohm and 20 ohm resistors in that the current design has in the final output for the Y and Pr channels?

Thanks for your help!

[DarkOnus]

Without any more targeted suggestions or followup to my new questions over the last 5 or so days, I decided to just try even more resistor combinations again . . .

I know I previously stated I had "improved component output" after trying 3.3k pull-up resistors instead of pull down, but after trying several more pull-up resistor value combinations on the RGB input, I'm hitting a wall. The reason was that even though I was getting a much brighter overall picture, and could get fairly decent reds and blues using pull-up, I could never seem to get the right mix of greens back in there too, so many areas that should have been shades of green just displayed as almost black in color.

So with the pull-up resistor method I just can't seem to tweak the resistor combination for all the colors in the right amount to get a decent more saturated looking color across all three channels while still maintaining a high enough brightness for games like Dungeon Explorer anyway.

Maybe there's a combo that would work well, but I can't find it. Each time I made changes to the pull-up resistors where I seemed to get green back in a decent amount, the picture once again became too dark again as it was before, so I've gone back to trying pull down resistor combinations at the input again instead.   

[DarkOnus]

I have to stop wasting money, take my time and do much better research before jumping into things . . .

So anyway, I wanted to get a video recording device to take full screen captures and record the TurboGrafx-16 composite and component video out directly from the console which I was able to get using this mod along with various tweaks I was implementing, rather than trying to get them using a camera on a stand where the screen captures and video wasn't really showing close enough to the true onscreen results.

I purchased an Elgato Gaming Capture HD to attempt this feat. But with the Elgato Game Capture HD device, if I hook up the console to it through the composite connector, it recognizes the signal, and I get a perfect video image on my Windows PC in the Game Capture HD software version 3.50.114(2114) 64-bit software which allows me to record the game fine. But the Elgato HDMI output (the only video out the device has on it) connected to my TV will not show the game at all, so I can't really play the game normally watching in the PC software while it records the signal because there is way too much lag.

OK I thought, at least I could capture some perfect screen shots and the game opening sequences, as well as some game play as I tried to get through areas with this 1+ second lag that was occurring. This way I have at least some nice examples to show of a truer output the mod was achieving, over those that I tried to capture with my camera.

However, the bigger issue became evident when I switched over to the console's component output, even though my TV accepts the signal and allows me to play the games over component relatively fine, the Elgato seems to fail to be able to process the signal correctly, because the software just shows a continual black screen in the video display area. So a no go on recording anything at all over component.

This was a bummer. Back to the drawing board . . .

[DarkOnus]

As I mentioned in my region mod switch's LED lighting thread, I've been wanting a Turbo Everdrive for a while now, and after a few hiccups with trying to order direct from Krikzz's own website, I eventually got it done. Low and behold, 12 days later, (today), the unit arrived at my door step. I was stoked!

Can't be more pleased with the Everdrive, works flawlessly so far with all the games and tools I tried to this point.

Not only pleased about being able to have all the Hucard games available on a single card for playing, but also being able to see how this video mod I'm trying to improve handles so many other games I didn't have access to try for testing before.