method recommend to not pull up solder pads?

[haightc]

I have recapped a few other system, but man I struggling a little bit with my PC Engine GT and more so with my Super CD-ROM2.     Some of these caps are so corroded it's hard to get them to lift off.    Sometimes I can add a little solder and they'll lift right off, but not these guys.    When doing the GT two pads came up, 504 and 103.    504 the pad came clean off and 103 the trace pulled up a bit, both on the positive side.   So I put a bit of solder paste, but it doesn't really hold the cap down or trace down.

What method do people use to keep from pulling up traces?   When I did my gear gear I actually snipped several of them then remainder legs, added a little solider than remove some of solder from the pad.   Granted with the GG the majority or radial, but I had to use this method to not destroy the pads as it was really bad especially on the audio board with has SMD capacitor.

What has been frustrating it the SCD2, I thought it would be okay.   Nope, in the radial capacitors are so far corrode the want to pull up traces.    To add to frustration the kit I got from Console 5 isn't fully complete and not everything matches.    I remove all the capacitors then started installing new ones and that's when I could find the right ones and it was already deep into it.    At this point I seriously doubt my SCD2 will work after all the caps are in place.

i haven't powered on the GT yet as I fell I would like to try and find a better way to fix those to pads.     Can you recommend a better way to fix traces and restore pads.     I think this will come in hard when I get around to trying to repair my broken SGFX .    My plan there is epoxy board back the try to trim off the top layer carefully of the top traces at break point then either apply solder across or solder paste.

Is there a particular type/brand that you folks can recommend that might work better to pad/trace repair

[MobiusStripTech]

Cut off the caps with flush cutters. You cut at the bottom of the cap where the ring is. Once the cylinder is off, cut the tips of the metal leads so the plastic base just lifts off. Then you can use your iron and fresh solder to remove the rest of the leads.

[Abelardo]

Cut off the caps with flush cutters. You cut at the bottom of the cap where the ring is. Once the cylinder is off, cut the tips of the metal leads so the plastic base just lifts off. Then you can use your iron and fresh solder to remove the rest of the leads.

Yeah I did that with the Duo I recapped, first time I've recapped a Duo and although some caps looked terrible I didn't pull a single trace (except for an op amp but those are difficult to desolder).

[Keith Courage]

For small smd caps I like to grab the cap with a small pair of pliers and twist them off. Twist it fast in one quick motion. This typically will pull the cap off without pulling up a pad unless the pad itself is extremely destroyed due to old cap damage.

[MNKyDeth]

You could always get a solder blob on one side that bridges all the legs of an op-amp and quickly lift one side. Then take the blob to the other side and lift it off the board.

It slightly bends the legs on one side but its a quick and painless removal of the op-amps. If the op-amp is in really bad condition I usually just replace them with new ones after cleaning the board.

[Slypty]

For small smd caps I like to grab the cap with a small pair of pliers and twist them off. Twist it fast in one quick motion. This typically will pull the cap off without pulling up a pad unless the pad itself is extremely destroyed due to old cap damage.

You're sure that's a good idea with stuff from the capacitor plague?  Most of the Duos and GTs etc in that era have corrosion/rust from cap leaks, and have weak solder pads as a result.  I would personally stick to cutting these off near the bottom with a pair of jewellers pliers, you can remove the bottom plastic piece easily after that with some tweezers.

[Keith Courage]

For small smd caps I like to grab the cap with a small pair of pliers and twist them off. Twist it fast in one quick motion. This typically will pull the cap off without pulling up a pad unless the pad itself is extremely destroyed due to old cap damage.

You're sure that's a good idea with stuff from the capacitor plague?  Most of the Duos and GTs etc in that era have corrosion/rust from cap leaks, and have weak solder pads as a result.  I would personally stick to cutting these off near the bottom with a pair of jewellers pliers, you can remove the bottom plastic piece easily after that with some tweezers.

I only do this for smd caps where the solder pads have been corded to the point where a soldering iron will not heat things up enough to remove them. If I am able to use a soldering iron I always de-solder one side first then the other. Suppose I should have mentioned that the 1st time.