LaserActive Help Anyone?

[Slypty]

Sorry not sure if posting anything not NEC is disapproved, but considering the guys here generally know their stuff I'm hoping to get a small piece of information on the CLD-A100.  (Pioneer LaserActive)
 
 I imported the beast from Japan untested, bought the N1 PAC and re-capped it.  All was well, in fact some of the videos shown here on the forums with the NEC Promo Discs are played on this player.  Fast forward six months of dust collection, and the poor old girl struggled to Power On.  The best I could get was about 5 seconds of a Hu Card game, then just died.  Since that last boot up, the thing has been deader than dead.   No green light when Powered On.  Nada.

  I've looked over postings from 2014 from BlueBMW on LaserActive repair, to check the IC's (Fuses) for the 5V line on the PSU.  The ICs 101, 102, 201 and 202 all check out OK.  You're supposed to replace the IC Protector if one of them are out, but all are OK.  To understand my issue, here's a pic of the PSU for the CLD-A100 (Courtesy of Console5, thanks)
 https://console5.com/techwiki/images/c/c3/SCH-2.png

  On the far right side of the pic, there's four ribbon cables CN1 through 4.  On the CN4 there's a 6-pin layout, with pin 5 labeled 'Ever +5V.'  To power the PSU by itself, running 5V to pin 6 on CN4 (Power ON) and grounding the On Switch at the other end of the board is necessary. 

 The problem is I have no 5V reading on CN4 to pin 5 (Ever), but I"m not sure I should.  The 5V Ever line runs directly to Power the PAC, but I'm uncertain if the 5V Ever runs like a constant, or if it ALSO needs 5V to be Powered ON.  If I can find that out, it will help to tell me to look at the board that holds the PAC or if it's another problem with the 5V line on the Power Board itself.  I'm no engineer so this would save me a great deal of time.  Thanks

[choijimmy]

This issue most likely due to capacitor issue on the interface board inside the laseractive

https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=9267.0

Please refer to 1st update on the FAQ ( both green lights are off after eg, 10 seconds )

I would prefer to replace All the capacitors on the interface board ( the board inside the laseractive which connect to PAC ). However, based on my experience, this is due to the small 16v10uf cap on the interface board.

Once replaced the cap ( well, or all capacitors ) on the interface board, the green lights off issue should be gone.

[Slypty]

Thanks for the help.  I thought that might be the problem, so I recapped the Int'f board the other day but it didn't make any difference.  I also recapped the Power Board.

  I guess there's no way to tell if the PSU unit is working with out using the whole machine?  The 'Ever 5V' has no voltage still after the PSU recap.

  I'm a bit stuck, would prefer not to do a complete recap but may have to.  I did find about 6 bad capacitors on the INT'F board, if I remember right one of them was the small 10uf cap you mentioned.  If I redo the whole thing, I might need a hockey game on and a few beers by my side to get me through the evening.

[choijimmy]

I nornally measure the voltage on the main board ( the board has a lot of pots to adjust the lens,  eg,  focus gain,  rf level,  etc...  ). In that board,  it has bunch of voltage labels eg,  5v,  -5v,  etc.. and I take the measurement from there.

I saw quite a lot of missing -5v (negative)  due to bad resistor (2.2k)  on the power board.  I never see missing +5 
though.

If you confirmed it is missing +5v, you may refer to cld-a100 service manual to see the path for +5v on the power supply board and hopefully found defect component thru the path.

[Slypty]

Good advice, thanks.  I'll try measuring the mainboard (2nd floor) and see what I get.  Thank you

[stt1]

Did you recap your PSU board already?

I have made already quite a few recapping for PSUs and almost every PSU I recapped had leaking caps (from few to almost half on board). If not already leaking, they started to leak during desoldering.

Please, note that the PSU has very tight design, you have to be precise with the physical dimensions of the new caps, otherwise it's impossible to put them into the board. Also PSU board has some hot running components, you can't place new caps there so that they touch these components.

While doing the work, it's easiest to check/replace the resistor mentioned by choijimmy. You really want that resistor to be checked and good. If not, you'll get more troubles elsewhere...