Introduction & help needed with interface unit

Frank_fjs · 08/27/2010, 11:53 PM

Hi all,

New PC Engine gamer from Australia here.

Thanks to Tighe and the admins for approving my account.

I couldn't see an intro section so I figured I'd kill two birds with one stone and do it all here.

So far I've got my hands on a boxed PC Engine console:

An interface unit:

And just recently I scored a CD-ROM2 unit, which is still in transit but should arrive late next week:

I've picked up some various other items such as the Tennokoe 2, Tennokoe bank, Arcade System Card, the 5 way multitap and a handful of games. Very much enjoying the PC Engine experience and am looking forward to getting more games and especially getting into the CD games.

Which brings me to my next point, I could really do with some assistance with a problem I'm having.

My interface unit creates a beeping sound about once per second as soon as the console is turned on. Game audio is coming through fine, from both channels, but it has to compete with this beeping tone which is omitted through the TV speakers at the same time as the game audio. Even if I bypass the AV out from the interface unit and go from the RF out on the console, the beeping persists. The console does not beep when used on its own, it works flawlessly, it's only when I connect it to the interface unit that the beeping starts. All other aspects of the interface unit function correctly. It's getting power, the power LED comes on, video is displayed fine, game audio is played fine, it just omits this annoying beeping sound & I'd really like to know why, and where the problem resides. I can't work out if its the interface unit at fault or the console. The seller I bought the interface unit from offered me another one at a low cost when I informed him of my troubles, that should be coming in some time next week. Until then, anyone got any ideas?

Here's a video of the problem:

Thanks for reading.

SignOfZeta · 08/28/2010, 01:08 AM

What the...?

At first I thought that chime might be telling you that there is a problem with the CDROM2 (since you don't have one) so I fired mine up with just the PCE and IFU, and I got no chime. Then I tried it with SFII' specifically, but still no chime.

I don't know what that is, but its almost certainly some kind of error message. I never got a manual with my system, so I can't look it up either. Hopefully it goes away when you get your CDROM2!

Do you have a system card of any sort? If you do, reformat the backup RAM. Maybe the chime is telling you there is a problem with that.

...that was a shot in the dark, I have no idea what the noise is!

Frank_fjs · 08/28/2010, 01:15 AM

Yep, I seem to be the first person with this issue!

I do have a system card, and I've tried formatting the RAM. It beeps no matter what HuCard I put in there, or even without one inserted. The beeping has also recently started getting faster than it was previously, so I'm less inclined to think it's a warning beep (as I had originally thought) and probably a fault, perhaps a bad capacitor?

Colossus1574 · 08/28/2010, 01:17 AM

Hello FRANK and WELCOME to the PCE Forum!!

I got the exact same thing as you except it's a CoreGraphx II instead of the base white PCE (although i do have one of those white pads as well)...and i've never ever heard ANYTHING like that "pinging" sound in your video and i've been the original owner of my system since 1992! It doesn't even sound electronic to me, straightup sounds like a bell u'd hear at a hotel desk! U seem like u've tried everything you could without doing any kind of electrical work, so I'd just wait for your replacement and hope for the best. On the other hand, the boards here have some THE MOST tech savvy guys you'll ever find when it comes to TG16/PCE. Maybe they can lend you a hand in the meantime (these guys open and repair Duos like nobody's business

).

My only tip for you is to get your hands on a controller with the rapidfire switches asap, it'll really help save the life on the buttons and help you out in all the great shooter titles on the PCE

Actually i'm quite jealous of your shiny new setup...i'll post some pics soon of my beaten up old warrior, hahaah. Once again, welcome aboard and enjoy your new purchase!

SignOfZeta · 08/28/2010, 01:29 AM

What power supply are you using for the IFU?

Frank_fjs · 08/28/2010, 01:37 AM

Quote from: SignOfZeta on 08/28/2010, 01:29 AMWhat power supply are you using for the IFU?

This exact one here:

http://gamedoctorhk.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69&products_id=203

Frank_fjs · 08/28/2010, 02:19 AM

Quote from: Colossus1574 on 08/28/2010, 01:17 AMHello FRANK and WELCOME to the PCE Forum!!

Thanks! I stumbled across this place through the NEC Compatibility guide which I have found crucial in understanding all the PC Engine related hardware. Other sites have the same information, but this site presented it in a very free flowing, easy to read & understand fashion.

Quote from: Colossus1574 on 08/28/2010, 01:17 AMMy only tip for you is to get your hands on a controller with the rapidfire switches asap

Aye, definitely want a 2nd controller. Also tying to track down an Arcade Pad 6 as I've heard that they're the best 6 button controller and that the Avenue pads are large, cumbersome and crap.

nat · 08/28/2010, 03:44 PM

I have like four Ave Pad 6es, and in my opinion they are fucking awesome.

Frank_fjs · 08/29/2010, 02:53 AM

Quote from: nat on 08/28/2010, 03:44 PMI have like four Ave Pad 6es, and in my opinion they are fucking awesome.

I might have to try one for myself then. They look fine to me, I've just stumbled across a few sites that bag them and say to stay away. They're not cheap though, $30-$40 is a bit much IMO and I can't find anywhere selling them for less.

nat · 08/29/2010, 05:38 PM

Yeah you should definitely hold out for cheaper prices. All the ones I have only cost me in the $12-$17 range, and half of 'em were still in the box.

turbogrfxfan · 08/29/2010, 05:52 PM

Quote from: Frank_fjs on 08/29/2010, 02:53 AM
Quote from: nat on 08/28/2010, 03:44 PMI have like four Ave Pad 6es, and in my opinion they are fucking awesome.
I might have to try one for myself then. They look fine to me, I've just stumbled across a few sites that bag them and say to stay away. They're not cheap though, $30-$40 is a bit much IMO and I can't find anywhere selling them for less.

yeah you can find them cheaper and imo they are my fav pad but sometime i like to play w the original

NecroPhile · 08/30/2010, 11:20 AM

Welcome aboard, Frank N. Furter. Good luck with your briefcase.

SignOfZeta · 08/30/2010, 01:37 PM

I just realized something: You have the earlier IFU30 that actually says, "IFU30" on it, whereas I had the one that says "CDROM2" in that same place. Maybe internally they are different, and maybe your's really is just making the chine to tell you that the CDROM2 is missing.

Wouldn't that be nice? Lets hope for that.

Frank_fjs · 08/30/2010, 01:47 PM

No such luck.

My CD unit actually arrived today, and whilst it works the beeping with the interface unit persists. It's a hardware fault of some kind, one that I'm not qualified to fix. Shame, as it's pretty clean and in good nick cosmetically, and aside from omitting that annoying pinging sound works flawlessly.

My replacement interface unit, which should arrive this week if I'm lucky, is the newer one with "CDROM" printed on it. It had better work!

Frank_fjs · 08/31/2010, 12:39 AM

Now that I have my CD unit, I gave it a whirl.

It seems that whatever circuitry that is inside the interface unit that is responsible for the CD audio is stuffed. The beeping stops when there is sound playing, but the sound is very distorted and garbled. Speech seems to come through fine, but music or anything complex gets garbled. Beeping persists in silent portions of the game.

For the moment I am using the line out from the CD unit to get my audio, which I will do until my replacement interface unit arrives. I miss out on sound effects, from the console, but oh well.

I'm going to order a gamebit screwdriver and see if I can spot anything that's obviously wrong, I might get lucky and only need to replace a few caps to restore audio.

Frank_fjs · 09/03/2010, 04:25 AM

Here's what the inside of an interface unit looks like:

I can't spot anything obviously wrong, but I have no electronics expertise so what would I know. I was hoping that I could spot something glaringly wrong. I don't even know which section is dealing with audio on that PCB.

Here's an updated video of the type of sound I get when playing a CD game:

So, some sound is coming through alright, seemingly the CD audio. There's just a lot of garbage coming through and sound effects generated by the console seem to not be coming through.

Good news is, my CD-ROM2 unit works! My replacement interface unit should arrive on Monday, hopefully that one works and I'll be all set. I still wouldn't mind getting this one fixed though so I can sell it off and recoup some of my losses, maybe put some money towards a DUO-R fund so I don't have to worry about all this crap!

SignOfZeta · 09/03/2010, 06:10 AM

When I saw the first video I was thinking that the sound was some sort of alert built into the unit for some specific reason. Now that I've seen this one I can only conclude that some sort of random electronic fault in the audio circuitry has resulted in the side effect that the IFU does a really good job of emulating the "high tom" from a Casio Portasound.

I have no idea where to begin diagnostics other than just verifying every semiconductor you can, one at a time.

Frank_fjs · 09/03/2010, 09:53 AM

Yep, I had the false glimmer of hope that it was merely an alert signal, unfortunately not.

I may send it to a person who repairs arcade pcb's for me, he always does good work.

He said:

QuoteI would certainly ESR test the caps, and I would poke a scope at the oki chips and the Fujitsu ram chips. Fujitsu TTL chips are awful after 20 years but their ram is very good, have never met a dead one from them. It still could be anything tho, ram, rom, sound CPU, track rot, even a bad cap depending on the reset system employed.

Only problem is it's going to cost me $40 for return shipping + parts if needed plus his fee. I don't know, maybe I'd be better selling it off cheap as non-working for parts for someone.

Frank_fjs · 09/08/2010, 10:27 PM

My replacement interface unit arrived today... it works great!

I'm so relieved, I finally have a working briefcase setup.

Still have to decide what to do with the old one, the cost of fixing it would be about the same as I could sell it for so I don't really know if it's worth it.

Thanks to everyone for your help and advice.