@GTV reviews the Cosmic Fantasy 1-2 Switch collection by Edia, provides examples of the poor English editing/localization work. It's much worse for CF1. Rated "D" for disappointment, finding that TurboGrafx CF2 is better & while CF1's the real draw, Edia screwed it up...
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PCEGT replace with 3.5inch TFT LCD

Started by woshizyt, 02/27/2011, 11:21 PM

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turbokon

I'm still looking for that perfect one that doesn't show the "AV1" on start up.
Turbo fan since 1991 after owning my first system.

Check out my website:)
www.tg16pcemods.com

Duo_R

Are there screens working again? Links?
Add my YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/sOg93QUtlg0
For sale trade list: https://tinyurl.com/2csm7kq

turbokon

Turbo fan since 1991 after owning my first system.

Check out my website:)
www.tg16pcemods.com

leonk

I use these for my NOMAD mods.  Does not show AV1 on startup!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331040572849?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

For those that want the smaller 2.38" LCD screens (the CAF257 was mentioned on another site) anywhere I can source it?

Beaps

Been looking at this mod, has anyone managed to do this mod in the UK. I love the console so much I don't trust myself in case I muck it up!  :roll:

Beaps

The images on the first page are up the spout, can someone re-upload them please

SmokeMonster

#206
I did this exact mod to my Nomad last year and I was completely blown away by the picture quality. Unfortunately I used one of the TFTs that reads "AV1" for like 5 minutes. Although it doesn't really bother me, I'd definitely try to get one that doesn't next time.

I used shielded 75ohm video cable (sacrifice almost any yellow plug RCA video cable to get one free) and grounded it at both ends for the signal wire. It probably wasn't necessary, but it can't hurt since you're sending a composite signal amongst all of those electronics.

It has a CRT mesh type look that makes the pixels really pop on the screen:
IMG IMG
IMG IMG
IMG IMG
IMG IMG
IMG
Before the mod (and recap) I couldn't read any of the text in the craptastic LOTR game.

roflmao

Those photos look great, SmokeMonster.  Now I wish I had a Nomad. :P

blueraven

I found the box of parts that I ordered to do the LCD mod. I ordered everything x100 sans the screen with the intention of passing it along to people who wanted to get this mod done. Once I figure out what makes a "complete kit" I'll get back with everyone. thesteve was walking me though it about three years ago, and I had to abandon the project.

Quote from: Duo_R on 01/25/2015, 11:53 PMhopefully "soon" which usually means 2 years! Lol
I feel you. I just found the PM from you requesting the parts. Apologies for not getting back with you in... 2 years.  :oops:

NightWolve

#209
I still hold out hope for a cheap LCD panel that can be made to accept raw RGB or at least a better signal than Composite. So far, ones with S-Video shoot up in price significantly over the $20 Composite-only models.

EvilEvoIX

IMGIMGIMG
Quote from: PCEngineHellI already dropped him a message on there and he did not reply back, so fuck him, and his cunt wife.

Groover

IMG

tknjin

Quote from: Groover on 03/06/2015, 12:57 AM
Quote from: EvilEvoIX on 03/04/2015, 08:27 AMAll I see is hot Asian's?
Yup that is all I see as well.
At first I was like how are you people even able to see these so called "hot asians." Then I go to the first post, and boy oh boy you were right lol.

SmokeMonster

That's what awaits us who use image hosting services.

Duo_R

the 1st images were helpful at the time, but with the advancements that have been made since then I can tell you newer images would be more helpful. He used a video board and had to sacrifice the battery port to make it fit. What specifically did you want to check out?


Quote from: Beaps on 02/12/2015, 08:26 AMThe images on the first page are up the spout, can someone re-upload them please
Add my YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/sOg93QUtlg0
For sale trade list: https://tinyurl.com/2csm7kq

NightWolve

Hahaha, I was wondering what you guys are talking about... That's funny. So it appears he used a free Chinese image host and the domain got grabbed by somebody else, a dating service, I dunno, but yeah...

esteban

Quote from: NightWolve on 03/06/2015, 04:39 PMHahaha, I was wondering what you guys are talking about... That's funny. So it appears he used a free Chinese image host and the domain got grabbed by somebody else, a dating service, I dunno, but yeah...
I had to check the original post, too. I was confused.
IMGIMG IMG  |  IMG  |  IMG IMG

wings00000

you know it comes to my attention it is a possibility of using native RGB with the raspberry screens they are touch screen but I don't think that matters these are cheap there about 20 bucks and we should be able to connect directly to the motherboard on the back check out this link below and let me know you think


http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=331509291501&alt=web

NightWolve

I've been waiting for a RGB model myself in the usual price range. I didn't see anything in the description that made clear an analog RGB signal is accepted, though. Somebody has to research more and take the risk in buying one.

Duo_R

Add my YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/sOg93QUtlg0
For sale trade list: https://tinyurl.com/2csm7kq

blueraven

I should also note that I have enough resistors, etc. to do about 50 of these. I just need to unpack the box and check with thesteve to see if the fix has changed in the last few years. I'll update this thread when I have a more clear picture.

wings00000

Quote from: blueraven on 04/17/2015, 01:10 PMI should also note that I have enough resistors, etc. to do about 50 of these. I just need to unpack the box and check with thesteve to see if the fix has changed in the last few years. I'll update this thread when I have a more clear picture.
nice I look forward to seeing your work when I was looking at these raspberry LCD screens I know that there are connector is directlyit may be a simple it may be a simple option to solder directly to those inputs to achieve the goal but of course I'm not an electrical engineer some kind of shooting in the dark here

wings00000

#222
Quote from: NightWolve on 04/17/2015, 06:53 AMI've been waiting for a RGB model myself in the usual price range. I didn't see anything in the description that made clear an analog RGB signal is accepted, though. Somebody has to research more and take the risk in buying one.
I decided to look a little bit deeper and the imputs are on the top connector maybe a simple process of plugging in the correct cables here is the interface plugs and what each one does
Interface

PIN NO.   SYMBOL   DESCRIPTION
1, 17   3.3V   Power positive (3.3V power input)
2, 4   5V   Power positive (5V power input)
3, 5, 7, 8, 10, 12, 13, 15, 16   NC   NC
6, 9, 14, 20, 25   GND   Ground
11   TP_IRQ   Touch Panel interrupt, low level while the Touch Panel detects touching
18   LCD_RS   Instruction/Data Register selection
19   LCD_SI / TP_SI   SPI data input of LCD/Touch Panel
21   TP_SO   SPI data output of Touch Panel
22   RST   Reset
23   LCD_SCK / TP_SCK   SPI clock of LCD/Touch Panel
24   LCD_CS   LCD chip selection, low active
26   TP_CS   
Touch Panel chip selection, low active


 
External Dimension

3.5inch-RPi-LCD-A-dimension

thesteve

in other words its a serial data display

SmokeMonster

For anyone using this type of screen, do you still have access to the settings somehow (brightness, etc)?

IMG

dylbob42

ah dammit, i finally find instructions on how to do this and as usual the picS are not available. although the women replacements are a first. if anyone knows of a good tutorial on how to do this with clear pictures and instructions could you please leave a link?

thesteve


Mercutio

Is there anyone on the forum who does this mod for hire? I've got a unit coming from a friend that has bad caps, and I'm really curious about having something like this done as well.

schweaty

Quote from: Mercutio on 05/29/2015, 09:53 AMIs there anyone on the forum who does this mod for hire? I've got a unit coming from a friend that has bad caps, and I'm really curious about having something like this done as well.
PM Turbokon 

he does it

Keith Courage

I've recently gotten into doing this mod as well. So if Turbokon is backlogged and doesn't want to take on any more jobs at the moment I'd be willing to do it.

mickcris

Just got mine back today that I had sent to Turbokon.  It looks awesome!  He did a great job.  Highly recommended mod.

Mercutio

Cool! Thanks, guys! I think it might come your way Keith, I haven't gotten anything back from Turbokon.

esteban

Quote from: Mercutio on 05/29/2015, 06:08 PMCool! Thanks, guys! I think it might come your way Keith, I haven't gotten anything back from Turbokon.
I think Turbokon said he was taking a break from mods as he concentrated on his magic RGB BOX project.
IMGIMG IMG  |  IMG  |  IMG IMG

mickcris

Quote from: esteban on 05/29/2015, 06:17 PM
Quote from: Mercutio on 05/29/2015, 06:08 PMCool! Thanks, guys! I think it might come your way Keith, I haven't gotten anything back from Turbokon.
I think Turbokon said he was taking a break from mods as he concentrated on his magic RGB BOX project.
Yeah, that's what it says on his webpage.  i sent mine to him before he put that up.

leonk

Any good instructions with pictures on how to mod the system to fit the bigger LCD screen?

Keith Courage

#235
Get a file and get to work. It's pretty time consuming. Or a small saw blade of sorts and then file afterwards to smooth things out. Very fine soldering will be needed to tap composite from the HU6260 chip. So be careful if you haven't soldered anything pins that small before.

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/pcengine/express-gt-composite-t179.html

Mercutio

Quote from: Keith Courage on 06/04/2015, 02:27 AMGet a file and get to work. It's pretty time consuming. Or a small saw blade of sorts and then file afterwards to smooth things out. Very fine soldering will be needed to tap composite from the HU6260 chip. So be careful if you haven't soldered anything pins that small before.

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/pcengine/express-gt-composite-t179.html
I'm so excited to have this mod done. I haven't had my TE long but MAN is it impossible to read text in a lot of games...

Question for folks though: how's the battery life improve after the screen is replaced ?

SmokeMonster

Yes, battery is much improved after replacing the screen. I didn't time it exactly, but mine seemed to last forever with a pack of fully charged Eneloop AAs. At least 6+ hours of gameplay. I have a 2.5" LCD though, not the 3.5".

thesteve

the 3.5 will differ, i have seen some that improved batt life and some that didnt

wilykat

IMG
https://i.imgur.com/8XHtQN7.jpg


Images in older posts are missing or have been replaced with girls and the question seems to come up often.

So I stole the image from another side.
Step 1: make sure your TE or GT is working fine.  Recap as well, old cap will go bad and it will ruin the board.
Step 2: take out game, batteries, power cable, TV tuner, etc.
Step 3: take it apart to get the mainboard.
Step 4: Find the chip HuC6260 and locate the pin numbering (or count from pin 1)  double check you have the right pin!!
Step 5: desolder and life all the pins as indicated in the picture.
Step 6: connect pin 19, 25, 29,32, and 39 to one wire, this will go to LCD module for better ground shielding.
Step 7: connect the remaining 4 pins to resistors. Tie the other end of resistor to one common point connected to the base of any basic NPN transistor
Step 8: solder collector of the transistor to 5v source.
Step 9: emitter is composite video, connect that to a 75 ohms (or 2x 150 ohms in parallel as 75 is not commonly found locally) and the other end of the resistor to LCD's video input
Step 10: Get power to LCD module. Check docs if it takes 5v or needs higher unregulated voltage.
Step 11: double, triple, and quadruple check everything to ensure there's no short, bridged solder, or any problem.

Power it on and hope for the best.

optional, if you got larger LCD rather than 2.5", you will need to modify the front shell.  Most people usually can get up to 3.5" LCD while still keeping the entire gut inside the TE or GT.  Larger LCD is possible but you'd need to make a custom shell or housing to hold the LCD.

Feeling adventurous ? PSOne LCD, RGB connection, clamshell case (or flat like Nintendo 2DS), make it like a PC Engine LT for a lot less than $500.

I plan to get mine with 3.5" LCD and also to hack in the save SRAM.  Tennokoe2 is cheap on eBay and it's just 2 chips that one needs to make it work, plus battery or fat capacitor save support for SRAM chip.

thesteve


thesteve

note that this thread started before mine, and eliminated the battery pack
this was before i figured out how to turn the encoder back on inside the HuC6260

SmokeMonster

Quote from: wilykat on 06/15/2015, 03:53 AMStep 2: take out game, batteries, power cable, TV tuner, etc.
Wilykat, I appreciate you stepping up to help, but that schematic and description is pretty insane. No one needs to be told to unplug their TV tuner.

Thanks steve for a schematic that doesn't burn my eyes.

What I'd really love to see is a writeup of how to modify the shell to fit a 3.5". If I could pull that part off cleanly, I could actually do this mod myself.

Keith Courage

I just cut, saw, or file the opening until it's 3.5 in size. Then use hot glue to secure the screen to the shell from behind.

Use the front plastic part/cover from your new screen to replace the old express one. Once again you will have to cut/file it down to fit.

thesteve

thread i linked has the step pictures

wilykat

Quote from: thesteve on 06/15/2015, 04:54 AMoriginal
IMG
I got in LCD for the mod. When I checked the video chip AMT630, it supported both composite and S-Video.  So I was wondering if it'd make mod a bit easier or if I'd end up needing 2 transistors to amplify both Chroma and Luma ?  If it can be easier, it may be worth going that way instead of the usual composite route. If not easier, I'll go composite route as it's hard to see difference between s-video and composite on a 3.5" LCD. 

Too bad 3.5" LCD with analog RGB is virtually nonexistent. That would have been very easy mod since there are RGB connector for the original LCD.

NightWolve

#246
I think it's worth it, go all the way with your LCD screen. If it has S-Video input, use it! Yeah, you'll need 2 transistors now to seperate the lines. Should be as easy as following Steve's circuit where after the 4.7k resistor for Luma/Y, you cut the line to the rest, add another transistor and 75 Ohm output resistor, but he'll tell ya for sure. Way worth it! Hell, I've been waiting for an LCD that'll take the raw RGB.

thesteve

Quote from: wilykat on 07/17/2015, 01:42 PM
Quote from: thesteve on 06/15/2015, 04:54 AMIMG
I got in LCD for the mod. When I checked the video chip AMT630, it supported both composite and S-Video.  So I was wondering if it'd make mod a bit easier or if I'd end up needing 2 transistors to amplify both Chroma and Luma ?  If it can be easier, it may be worth going that way instead of the usual composite route. If not easier, I'll go composite route as it's hard to see difference between s-video and composite on a 3.5" LCD. 

Too bad 3.5" LCD with analog RGB is virtually nonexistent. That would have been very easy mod since there are RGB connector for the original LCD.
the only issue is those encoder chips would need the inputs enabled in software
you would need to edit their programming

wilykat

I got mine modded and working with 3.5" LCD.  Sadly the electronic part is easy, the hardest part is still to come: cutting up TE to accommodate 3.5" LCD.  I flunked kindergarten level cutting and trimming and I am afraid of trimming my TE and not have wavy edge, uneven edge, or looking like it went a few round with Tazmania devil.  I did remove the original lens cover (virtually scratch-free) and put it inside ziploc bag to protect it from any scratch.

wilykat

I completed mine after some careful cutting with dremel. It seemed to work but it had a quirk: if I pressed on the middle like button or control pad, the image blanks out. I thought it was a loose wire and took it apart. Nothing I jiggled caused the image to blank out and when I put it back together, image never came back.

Took it apart, noticed the video board was very warm and touching metal.  I put in a piece of paper under the video board and tried again, no picture, I know TE is working because the LED on my TED is flashing and reacting to button presses.

I cut the wire and used alligator clip to connect video and ground to a nearby TV, I got image.  I think the video board may have been cooked by accidental short.

IMG

It was probably the same way that blew the fuse the first time.  ](*,) so I got to wait a week for new AV stuff to come in.