Messages

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: CDRom2 need a few values]

I've tried but they're too hard to see for specific areas.. also, it would be tough if it's a specific value to know what to replace it with.
Anyways I'm picking up another CD unit soon to repair.

  A general question would be, do some motherboards have 'markings' like R201 or C305 etc where there's actually no fitted resistor or small cap?  I know for bigger caps (radial etc) it's common to have nothing there, but I'm not sure about the smaller components.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / CDRom2 need a few values]

I had the pleasure of getting a faulty CDRom2 to fix up, CD would hardly spin.  The spindle rod was badly corroded, and after replacing it I still had very little movement.
Completed a full recap and pulled a few solder tabs, this board was one of the more brittle one's.

Picture 1
  On C215 and C216 are two small 4.7uF Caps.  I think my replacement caps legs were too big, because they ripped the tabs out completely.  I could trace one terminal (both on the right side of the pic, and re-solder to another attached tab), but the other which is surrounded by a square I couldn't find any traces leading in to the terminal where the tab was lifted.  I scraped around that area but didn't reveal any copper leads.  My thought it was a simple ground, so I ran a ground wire to these legs.  I really couldn't see any traces leading in to the terminal, even under 10x magnification.   My concern is since it's a double layered PCB the top of the board may have a lead in to C215 and C216, but I also don't seem to see traces leading in to those caps from the top of the board.   Also if you see the lifted trace near the top of the pic, it was fixed by attaching to trace lead (see on the right side of the broken tab.)

  Here's a few pics of what I've done.. a little hard to see, but the two terminals with wires attached are wired to ground, and just thinking this could be an error or if anyone has a better concept of where these tabs lead to. 

Picture 2

This pic just shows a missing resistor, it seems to be a bit to clean maybe for a missing resistor, (under C161) but wanted to know the value in case this one is actually missing.  Hopefully someone's got one open they can have a quick look at these areas, thanks for any help

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: LaserActive Help Anyone?]

Good advice, thanks.  I'll try measuring the mainboard (2nd floor) and see what I get.  Thank you

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: LaserActive Help Anyone?]

Thanks for the help.  I thought that might be the problem, so I recapped the Int'f board the other day but it didn't make any difference.  I also recapped the Power Board.

  I guess there's no way to tell if the PSU unit is working with out using the whole machine?  The 'Ever 5V' has no voltage still after the PSU recap.

  I'm a bit stuck, would prefer not to do a complete recap but may have to.  I did find about 6 bad capacitors on the INT'F board, if I remember right one of them was the small 10uf cap you mentioned.  If I redo the whole thing, I might need a hockey game on and a few beers by my side to get me through the evening.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Turbografx CD unit only spins CDs about a quarter way around before stopping]

I've fixed a lot of these boards.  The last one I got actually had a broken switch near where the laser hits the bottom.  You can test it with a multimeter, see if you get continuity when the little black peg is pressed down.  I wouldn't disassemble the switch because the spring in there is microscopic and a pain to get back in.

  Also very possibly a laser problem.  You can contact me if you need a laser, I have a few extra KSS-220a that fit it I can sell.

  I've seen more TGCD boards go bad than PCE, but they were straight from a repair guy at NEC so I don't know what went wrong with them initially.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / LaserActive Help Anyone?]

Sorry not sure if posting anything not NEC is disapproved, but considering the guys here generally know their stuff I'm hoping to get a small piece of information on the CLD-A100.  (Pioneer LaserActive)
 
 I imported the beast from Japan untested, bought the N1 PAC and re-capped it.  All was well, in fact some of the videos shown here on the forums with the NEC Promo Discs are played on this player.  Fast forward six months of dust collection, and the poor old girl struggled to Power On.  The best I could get was about 5 seconds of a Hu Card game, then just died.  Since that last boot up, the thing has been deader than dead.   No green light when Powered On.  Nada.

  I've looked over postings from 2014 from BlueBMW on LaserActive repair, to check the IC's (Fuses) for the 5V line on the PSU.  The ICs 101, 102, 201 and 202 all check out OK.  You're supposed to replace the IC Protector if one of them are out, but all are OK.  To understand my issue, here's a pic of the PSU for the CLD-A100 (Courtesy of Console5, thanks)
 https://console5.com/techwiki/images/c/c3/SCH-2.png

  On the far right side of the pic, there's four ribbon cables CN1 through 4.  On the CN4 there's a 6-pin layout, with pin 5 labeled 'Ever +5V.'  To power the PSU by itself, running 5V to pin 6 on CN4 (Power ON) and grounding the On Switch at the other end of the board is necessary. 

 The problem is I have no 5V reading on CN4 to pin 5 (Ever), but I"m not sure I should.  The 5V Ever line runs directly to Power the PAC, but I'm uncertain if the 5V Ever runs like a constant, or if it ALSO needs 5V to be Powered ON.  If I can find that out, it will help to tell me to look at the board that holds the PAC or if it's another problem with the 5V line on the Power Board itself.  I'm no engineer so this would save me a great deal of time.  Thanks

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Duo RGB to Component v2.0 Chip Help]

The ground and 5v you only need to use one side or the other, not both.

Well, problem finally solved.  You DO need to Ground the Component side, but with the Component Cables ground.  Probably silly of me to overlook this but ya, it works now as long as the component cables ground wire is also grounded to the V2 chip

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Duo RGB to Component v2.0 Chip Help]

just reread the post
the component side of the mod is output, as it takes RGB input
if connected right the duo will have about 4.8V on the RGB pins
that board is fairly self stable, so any input should give you an output

I just tested the RGB side (inputs) and getting 4.3V for R,G,B and about 5V for CSync, a little over 5V for the 5V tab.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Duo RGB to Component v2.0 Chip Help]

I also use that pinout, but remember Y is green Jack, Pr/Cr red and Pb/Cb/ blue
You should have direct continuity from Jack to mod

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Old post but needed to revive, put away the RGB to Component V2 until now.  I've wanted to have my own IFU-30 with RGB to Component for a while, so I pulled out the V2 board I put away and re-installed everything, according to the online tutorial.
 
  Anyways, everything checks out but I'm still getting nothing on screen.  Checked 5V and ground pads, continuity for each component connection.  I got a higher tolerance on the continuity from Pb/Cb, reading above 1ohm most of the time.  Anyways, my TV has two component inputs.  One of them will display the IFU-30 with yellow (standard composite) in the Y input as full color, whereas the other input will show black and white.  So, I am using the black and white component inputs since I'd believe it supports 240p.

  Maybe to check this chip, finding out what resistance I'm supposed to be getting across the V2 chip will help?  For instance, I get about 10.12MOhms from the RGB Green side to the Y Component side.  From RGB Red and Blue, I see absolutely no connection which has me a bit worried.  Any thoughts?

 Sorta at a loss at this point,

[Console Repair/Mod Center / PC-9801 Power Resistor]

A while ago when I was in Japan, I bought a few of the old school NEC 9801 laptops.  They didn't work, but wanted to try and fix them.  Anyways, I got around to re-capping one of them, and when powering on I get a blue screen only.  The only part I didn't recap, was the power board.  I noticed a damaged power resistor, and left it somewhere before I moved and it has been lost somewhere.

  So I'm left with a partially working PC-9801, the small PCB on the mainboard that has a transformer and a few IC's is missing a power resistor.  So, I bought a cement power resistor rated 5W 22K, now when I power on I blow caps each time.  I think I bought this one because the resistor was a wire wound RJ22, but it was so old I could hardly read it.

  I'm wondering if I should just keep on replacing caps (because a different cap seems to fry each time) or if there's a good starting value for a power resistor.. for instance, you can use a higher resistance than what is regulated but not lower than the needed amount I believe.  So, considering it's a small Power Board, what might be a recommended value to start with?  This is probably too vague, but I have no idea where to start at this point.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Buggy Duo Pics]

Managed to source the chips from eBay, will be waiting a month to get them.  Thanks for the tip on 6270 Ill check traces while I wait patiently

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re:IC Duo replacement source?]

Trying to source a cheap IC replacement source, anybody know a store or supplier for the IC516 to IC520? 

  I've removed IC520 to disable the CD side and try to enable HuCards but that didn't work.  Two of the IC's are running hot, hoping a replacement does something.  Also tested IC516 with a logic probe and was getting opposite of the recommended readings.  For instance, I'd get High readings when Low is indicated on the schematics, and vice-versa.  5V points were fine.
 
  Finally after reflowing Hu6280 the picture went back to completely white again.  I may have a short somewhere else as well but starting here.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Duo R & RX perform well after Audio CD plays (Only)]

Off to recap this weekend, will report results.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Duo R & RX perform well after Audio CD plays (Only)]

 
  I bought them in a lot with a Duo, an -R and RX.. all 3 were completely mangled and the seller didn't mention anything, only 'untested.'  Rare for that type of lot from Japan.
 Same with the Arcade Hu Card in it was busted, overall taken better than a year to get 2 of 3 running.

  I tried a different laser today, I bought that pack of 5 off eBay from the HK Game Doctor.. if it's the laser, I've been had.. but I'm not convinced the laser's the issue.  I managed to get a game running well after adjusting a few pots again, but when I powered it Off and On again.. the game wouldn't even boot?  It went from getting just the boot screen to a fully running game, but failed after reboot.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Duo R & RX perform well after Audio CD plays (Only)]

Wait...just to be clear...we're talking about real pressed discs, right?

Thanks for the lag info, yup not laggy just timing's off as you say.  I'm using real pressed discs, if I throw in a burned game I won't get anything.  I might do a full laser recap, it couldn't hurt anyways.  When I got the RX someone butchered a Region Free mod, so the Hu slot needed replacing as well as the Hu6260 was fried.  Pretty sure it had some funky POT issues, the originals originally ran this the laser motor super fast and non-stop.  I replaced the POTS and that fixed the constant motor issue, but having the laser run at its' threshold could have burned one of the CX chips.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Duo R & RX perform well after Audio CD plays (Only)]

If a game boots, there's just too much time between cut scenes.  For example, on one game 3x3 Eyes, the boot screen will come up as NEC, and has a lot of visual JP Kanji that go from scene to scene.  Normally these scenes should take a few seconds, but I'm getting a 7-8 second lag.  Again, if an audio CD is popped in before booting a game, the game will play with zero lag.

  My thought was the same, maybe caps but just seems unusual.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Duo R & RX perform well after Audio CD plays (Only)]

Both of these systems (R & RX) have had blood transfusions and brain surgery so I'm happy they're working, with the exception of the reliability of the CD playback.
  If I pop in a game it won't boot or will be laggy.  I've tried adjusting POTs and replaced them, but even at the finest tuning this is the same result.

  So, the weird thing is if I pop in an Audio CD, let it play for a few minutes, then pop in a game, the game will boot like it's brand new.  And, odder still I replaced a few laser board caps on the RX just to see if it would do anything, but now Audio CDs won't boot at all.  A friend says that this is likely a problematic Sony Chip that organizes the laser data near the bottom right (down from where the laser is.)  I'm having trouble being convinced both have the same issue and this isn't something more simple.  A full recap seems like too much of an overhaul for what may be a simpler fix.  Anybody experience a similar issue?

[Buy/Sell/Trade / WTB: CD-Rom2 Laser Assembly BROKEN]

Looking for the earlier Model (KSS-162A) Laser Assembly to get my CD-ROM2 working.  I snapped the ribbon and really just need the ribbon cable (the bigger one.)  If anyone has this part, I'd be happy to pay shipping and some.  Hopefully someone has a spare dud lying around, thanks

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Why doesn't the LT work on a CDRom2?]

Had no idea.  Actually had it hooked up and had no AV output from the LT at one time, I'll try again.  Thanks

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Why doesn't the LT work on a CDRom2?]

I was under the impression that was what the RomRom2 adapter is for?  To make it compatible with the UHF-30 or other systems.  If that isn't what it's for, what is it used for?

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Why doesn't the LT work on a CDRom2?]

I think the Super CDRom2 has a different RGB layout than the PCE White, Core and Core GrafX 2. 
 
  I bought this RGB booster to go with my LT, and although I can get regular AV I can't get RGB out.  I didn't realize till now that it isn't compatible with either the LT or Super CD Rom2, but the RGB will work the other PCE Systems with SCART out. 

  Visit here to see the compatibility list.  So the ROMROM2 does do something to relay the RGB signals at the least.. 

https://zenmarket.jp/auction.aspx?itemCode=n273923759

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Why doesn't the LT work on a CDRom2?]

As per the title, I've seen mods where you hack up the top front of the Super CDRom2, and the LT will work on that system if you don't mind demolishing your SuperCDRom2 System.

  I'd like to attempt a similar mod on the CDRom2 UHF-30 unit, but I wanted to make sure that the only reason it won't recognize the LT is because the SCART pin adapter that sticks out of the CDRom2 just isn't far enough out?  Are the pins on the LT shorter than most to make a connecting point?
  There's room in the UHF-30 to push the whole motherboard forward, I'd think someone had tried this by now.  Don't want to get myself in a hole if this is a doomed mission, anybody know?

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Buggy Duo Pics]

Replaced all caps and checked traces/vias on this Duo, checks out can't find a fault. 

  But this is what the screen looks like.  The last image is with a game in the Hu Slot (tennis)

With out a game it flashes between the first two pics.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1c_zuTpCaM1SQz6FVlFdDdAFzRqBIt1zq/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1c_zuTpCaM1SQz6FVlFdDdAFzRqBIt1zq/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mLt1Et6VHPGz-WbmO3n6Xe5ihp2t4rzs/view?usp=sharing

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Duo blank screen help]

Unfortunately the missing resistor did nothing. 
 
  It's on nearly the same path as the Clock's path, the #2 pin on Hu6260 is for the clock, and it's still not giving me any data when using a logic probe. 

 It's possible another resistor shorted around there because it fell off, I don't really know.  Back to the lab, if I had a schematic that shows where the link between leg 2 on 6260 and leg 26 on 6280 might cross paths it's possible there's a short between them.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Duo blank screen help]

Lol well after all that seems to just be a missing tiny resistor.  Hu6260 Pin 2 is for the clock, so I just ran connections back from there and found a missing resistor, R137.  I don't have it handy but I think a friend does locally.  Thanks for the help in this one, should end up working.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Duo blank screen help]

After checking the Hu Card Schematic, I found out that from Leg 77 on the Hu6280 is supposed to run to Pin 28 on the Hu Card slot.  I checked and there is a short there, so I did a quick wire fix and connected the two points.  It did make a difference:

  The screen comes on differently, it flashes between a jailbar screen and the System 3.0 screen, but the System 3.0 screen is blurry.  When I power down the console, for a brief second the screen looks as it should before it turns Off completely.

  I also noticed that by connecting these points, the Via on IC 517 Pin 15 has been corrected.

  The Hu Card 6260 points still don't seem to be getting proper signals though, the mentioned pins in my last post (2,17,23,30, & 37) are unaffected.

  Does the GPU 6260 run to the 6280 or vice-versa?  Anybody know a schematic to help my find a potential fix?  Thanks

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Duo blank screen help]

Thanks for the advice, I ordered one a few weeks ago and finally arrived.

  I was able to  find a few suspect areas with the probe, but because I can't find a complete schematic I don't know where to start on the board to find a faulty area. 
Basically the fault zones seem to be:
Hu Card Pin 28, varies.. usually no signal from the probe
IC 517 Pin 15, No Count (has a reading of 1Y3 on console5 IC schematic, but I don't know what that means)
On the ROM Chip HuC6260, I have no values on 2, 17, 23, 30 and 37. 
 
  I'd like to know where a schematic is to help me zone in on a trouble area, or if someone has had a similar looking problem anything helps now, thanks

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Duo blank screen help]

So I checked the Via to the ALS chips as per Xenogears recommendation, thanks by the way it has been a useful tip.

  I'm getting more resistance than I should on most of the Vias from the first 2 left ALS chips to the Hu Card pins, mainly about 12 mOhms... seems unusual.  Also seems to have a lot of old gunk around the Hu pins, need to do a thorough cleaning. 

  Sounds like I have a bad trace somewhere?  Or possibly one of these ALS chips have gone?  Anyways not sure where to look now, might need the ALS pinouts to check for a bad trace underneath.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Duo blank screen help]

Did the system look like it had already been worked on prior?

No, not really.  The Hu pins are all in tact and no solder on their joints other than original.  I've removed all the acid I could before I did the recap, it can be painstaking when you don't have a professional cleaner.. I just use a brush and some vinegar and finish up with alcohol.

 The flux I use is crap so it looks like acid, it's the same brown color and doesn't come off easy.  Bad choice on my part.  I'll get to the Via's and the ALS244/HC245 chips later today.

  Would it be ridiculous to just swap all IC's with an old crap Duo that I've used for parts over the years?  Seems a bit overboard but might be easier than sending in

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Duo blank screen help]

Leak near power input

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Duo blank screen help]

I bought this Duo from Japan for an absurdly cheap cost, maybe I should have read the fine print.

  When it arrived it had a yellow or gray or pink screen.  So, I decided to do a complete recap.  After completion, the System still acts the same way, yellow/blue/gray screen only.

  I've checked for bad traces, nothing stands out.  There's a few traces with some leakage but the continuity seems fine.  One thing I did notice, is that caps C614, C613 and C323 only give out .9V of power when powered On.  On my working Duo, these voltages stand out as 2.4V approximately.

  There's an array of resistors underneath these caps, I've taken some pics of the areas in question.  There's also some corrosion by the power input, but I've checked the Voltage Regulators and they emit the proper voltages when On.  Anybody see anything out of whack? 

Anybody want to tackle this fix if I can't?

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Anyone have a Hu6260 schematic?]

I'd like to try and test my 6260 as well by using this schematic.

  Would a suitable continuity check run from pin 47 (or G on the RGB) to CH103 238?  Is 238 part of a cluster or easy to find?  Newby in this area so just trying to find a reliable continuity check.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: WNTD Hu6260 Chip]

Is it region modded?

No harm done from what I can see.  I've had a Duo-R with a crap region mod, and the Hu6260 had shorted..

  Anyways a bit stuck on it.  Might have to put it on the backburner.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: CD ROM potentiometers part ???]

There's definitely a pic on these Forums, I don't have the link but I've seen it a few times.  I'd order new pots and install 'em if you're good with a soldering iron.  I just replaced mine and got my Duo working that I screwed up the pots with.  Console5 carries them.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: WNTD Hu6260 Chip]

Thanks, I'll be sure to check out some sexy chisel drags on Youtube before I make any attempts.
 
  I was going over the board today before I start anything, and noticed compared to my working Duo the voltage outputs from the Caps near the Op Amp (the small 3 22uF caps) Output half the voltage or less than my working Duo.  I think the working one is 2.6V and the other 3 are .9 or just above 1V.  There's a lifted pad but the copper trace isn't broken around there, I don't see any other damage. 

  The screen goes all types of colors, not just yellow.. red, white, yellow.. chips don't get hot so I'm second guessing.
 Might postpone if further digging is required.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: WNTD Hu6260 Chip]

Oh OK I am a little nervous but have a pro solder friend who does this stuff for me.  It isn't definite the chip is the problem, but it does control RGB and a solid yellow screen is unusual.. it was like this before I did the recap, so I'm just taking an educated guess.

 

Honestly, it sounds interesting and I'd like for you to get the chip, make a thread, and document the whole process.  I think soldering that many leads into the motherboard would just be a nightmare, is all.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: WNTD Hu6260 Chip]

Wow that sounds like a gross problem with a worse solution.  Good luck to you, sir.

??  Sorry but why is it gross and why is the solution worse?  I don't have a problem if you think this is a bad idea but please give your reasons

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: WNTD Hu6260 Chip]

Ya that post was an accident, I haven't sold or bought much on these forums.  This post was moved here by the moderator, with higher hopes that a repair tech might have an extra chip.

I'd be up for some of these too (although obviously I'll take my place in the queue).

You've posted this in the PC-FX trades though, might be better off in the Turbo sales section

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: PC Engine LT repair]

Sorta?  The left power input will actually power the TV tuner on and LCD, but not the whole system... I don't use mine with a SuperCDRom system but have wanted to for some time..

  I have wanted to badly though.  Judging by the pin layout (before recap) I'm hesitant about whether the CDRom2 attachment is used to modify the signals so it can be used with a SuperCDRom2, otherwise what would be stopping us from simply plugging it in to a SuperCDRom2?

I couldn't find a photo of the PC Engine LT connected to the Super CD-ROM system so pretend that the Core Grafx is an LT (in the photo from the link below). The left power input has a short cable that connects to the Super CD-ROM system which leaves the right power input for the power supply but if the LT is used by itself (without the Super CD-ROM system) I believe you can use either input for the power supply.

https://iwasateenagepcenginefan.files.wordpress.com/2010/06/coregrafxii-004a.jpg

[Buy/Sell/Trade / WNTD Hu6260 Chip]

Poor Duo needs Hu6260 Chip
Help make home for old loose unneeded but working Hu6260 Chip
Send me a PM with price
Yellow screen is annoying after complete cap job
Any help thanks

[Console Repair/Mod Center / WNTD Hu6260 Chip]

Hi just finished re-capping a Duo and am getting a yellow screen.  Pretty certain this is the Hu6260 gone bad, anybody have a donor from their system I can purchase?

  HK Game Doctor (the notorious Frankie) sometimes stocks these but is currently out.  I'd bet one of you repair masters here could dig one up?  Pretty please?

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: Looking for a PC-FX Controller and Memory Unit]

Not sure if you're still looking for a controller but I have one for sale, no memory unit sorry.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: LT Super ROM ROM Modds]

It doesn't do anything other than make it connect correctly. You can also use an RAU-30.

Hopefully you won't permanently deface any hardware with a mod like this:

[/quote]
  Seen that mod, lol.. it works but savage cost for a mod.. seems to me that the LT fits fine in to the IFUnit, the pins certainly have the depth to make a connection to the IFunit, as far as I can tell.  If I find out any other methods I'll be sure to share.  Thanks

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: LT Super ROM ROM Modds]

If you just want to play CD games on the LT and would like to avoid altering your hardware, you could just get a Super SD System 3.

I'm aware of that mod, but was hoping I don't need another system.  It seems off that the LT fits in to the interface unit, but doesn't work.. I'm wondering if anyone knows what the RomRom actually does as an adapter.. does it reroute the LT to gain power only, or a whole bunch of lines need to be re-configured?

[Console Repair/Mod Center / LT Super ROM ROM Modds]

Hoping to get my LT working on a Super CD Rom 2 Interface Unit with out having to shell out my savings for the ludicrously expensive RomRom adapter. 

  I noticed that the LT actually fits with out the Adapter, but doesn't turn on when the suitcase is turned on.   I'm wondering, it seems like the pins on the LT are deep enough to make a connection to the suitcase, but maybe the LT power pin is different than other systems?

  I'm trying to figure out what exactly the ROMROM adapter does, and if it's worthy to try a work around for this by adding an internal mod to the suitcase, to enable the Power on the LT.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: VR102 soap opera]

some Duos will have issues reading CDrs if they are larger games. can also depend on what kind of media you are using. Some drives like certain brands over others. try testing a game that's 500 megabytes or smaller. anything over that can have issues where the lens can get stuck near the end of the track regardless of what adjustments are made.

Thanks, but this problem seems to happen with original games as well.  I've ordered some new pots, hopeful I get this working in a few weeks.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: VR102 soap opera]

After more adjustments, unfortunately little progress. I was able to see that the V101, when adjusted controls where the laser moves to some extent.  For instance by turning it 1/3rd, the result is that the laser won't travel to the outer edge to read the game, but the game also doesn't proceed unless the laser goes to the edge..

 What I find unusual is that I can boot up a CDR game, and play some of it.  Once it goes to the edge, the same problem occurs as with an official game, something's wrong with the travel point of the outer edge, and the disc wanting to turn backwards.  I actually had the backup CDR moving really fast backwards for a while, it was just after the lens went to the edge and about 10 minutes in to the game. 

  I guess changing the pots might do it, I'll double check my laser caps again to make sure I haven't reversed or created a bad connection.

  Also should note that at one time, I had it running so that the laser would go to the edge, and return about an inch and continue to read games.  I haven't been able to get it there again.  I wonder if I've burned the laser out with so many adjustments. 

 Finally the C102 Cap, which is supposed to be 3.3uf 50V, is 3.3uF 35V.  I've read that this Cap needs to be 50V, but I'm not sure how important that is.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: VR102 soap opera]

hey, I just read your first post again. So the lens will move, get stuck, and then the disc spins backwards? When this starts to happen again try and move the lens motor manually near where it usually stops to see if it will progress further. When the lens motors go bad they get stuck here and there which usually causes the disc the then spin up all funny like. Sometimes a fast spin up but usually a slower spin instead.

Kind of hard to diagnose this without seeing exactly what happens in person.

I do move the V101 a bit to see if it helps, I might have put it in a spot the other pots don't like as much.  Have to get tinkering again this morning, will post results.  Thanks for the help, I'll see what happens.   Just to elaborate on the backward spins, it only occurs when the laser goes to the outer edge.  When I adjust V102, sometimes I can get it to spin forward from that point.  It will go to the edge, then in a little bit and continue to read.  There was one time I had it reading near the far edge at the speed Duo games should be read at, which is really pretty slow.  I haven't been able to repeat.

  So, ya if I screw with the V102 a little I can occasionally get it to move forward, but it's really hard to find that point, and when I do back up games don't necessarily read well either.  I tried small adjustments when I got to the sweet spot, and lost it because I wanted to play a few back ups. 

 On a sidenote, does CDR media quality make a big difference?  I'm using cheapo Ridata I think.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: VR102 soap opera]

Pretty much.

Also, have you messed with V101 at all? This can have a huge effect on things.

One last thing to check is that it's not uncommon for the red wire for the lens wires that hooks up to the lens itself to get a short in it or fall out completely. Double check that red wire is getting a good connection on both ends using a multi meter. Symptom of a bad connection here is the lens moving and return really fast over and over again when trying to read a disc.[/quote]
  I'll take a look at the red wire, it would be weird if both lenses had the same issue since I've been through one with similar load problems already. 

 As per VR101, I did mess with it but find that it's in a good spot, I don't want to go a full rotation since I may risk ruining the POT, unless you think it's safe to turn a pot more than 360?

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: VR102 soap opera]

Try This:

https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=8926.msg152736#msg152736

This was the trim pot guide we put up 8ya

Hope it helps[/quote]
Thanks I did try that at first, I might give it a go again from head to toe.